[64speed]

I have received a lot of feedback both on here and in DM about my engine project to replace the one I blew up. I am at the point I am getting ready to pickup the block and do the assembly. Does anyone see anything glaring before I go forward.

72 455 .30 over zero decked torque plate honed
Block professionally prepped, deburred and tapped for screw in oil plugs
Rotating assembly from Butler. Forged Ross pistons and crank and forged h beam 6.8 rods.
Heads and mains studded
Edelbrock 87cc round port, ported to 325cfm by butler.
Comp Cams 96 springs.
1.5 roller tip Comp Cams rockers
Crower 60919 cam with Crower cam saver lifters all checked for proper machining and a perfect set made up out of 3 sets.
I do not want Rhoads Lifters.
Compression is 10.25.1
Dougs ceramic headers
Performer RPM
Brawler 750 CFM mechanical secondaries
Summit RTR with lightest advance curve.
MSD street fire box mainly for the rev limiter
TKO600 ahead of 3.70 gears and 26 inch tall tires.

Am I gonna be happy for a fun regular driver? Probably driven 4-5 times a week all year long. This is my last chance for a while if this goes south.

[Koppster]

The performer RPM intake will create a clearance problem if you go with a quadrajet

[64speed]

Originally Posted by Koppster

The performer RPM intake will create a clearance problem if you go with a quadrajet

QFT Brawler

[77 TRASHCAN]

We're the main saddles align honed???

Some here say to make sure of this when using main studs. The brand of studs sometimes also make a difference.

The roller tip rockers, with the pivot ball instead of full roller type can have issues with the pivot balls. I've use those types of rockers on Chevrolets with no issues, but have heard of problems galling the balls on Pontiacs. The consensus best rockers are either the stainless vrowers or Harland Sharp rocjets. Which are aluminum, only.

Your head flow is huge for a driver. I have zero knowledge for concerned direction. Will be curious what others say. What rear end gear do you have???

Scrub that block, thoroughly. Make sure you clean the oil passages in the block and crank, also!!!

Make sure you use some sort of Moly lube on the cam lobes and lifter faces. Use just enough to thinly coat the lobes and lifter faces. Some here worry about using too much causing oil filter to get plugged, I have never seen much moly in a cut open filter. I typically change the "break in" filter and it's oil after a couple of hours, not the oil in the pan.
Do you plan to run a type of oil. That's specific for flat tappet cams, or a proper additive for such? There seems to be several brands of oil and additives these days. That we I'll work.

Be sure to check the front oil passage screw in plugs. If the holes get tapped too deep, they can restrict or block oil flow to the front 2 lifters.

Use some type of lube on the timing chain. The Crower cam lube wo I ld work.

Check lifter upon installation, to make sure the spin freely in their bores. Especially check the bores with a finger, JUST to make sure the tops and bottoms of the lifter b I res didn't get dinged some how, causing them to possibly not spin.

[25stevem]

I don’t see where with all the machine work you listed done to the the block where all 16 lifter bores where very well checked for ware in at least 4 spans and in two different heights in Lew of not using a new lifter to check the clearance.

Cam and lifter wise you want to only use American made lifters and I would consider not one, not one new lifter or cam lobe good until I checked them all.

There is a great cam and lifter post over on the speed talk site.
Most all on shore made cam and lifters have the needed hardness, but the machine work can be a crap shoot!

One fellow posted about buying a bulk tray of 128 lifters and found this.
18 where low in hardness.checking in at 40 instead of 50.
37 had a odd finish and did not have all the needed crown for them to spin good .
Some others from another batch had too big of a chamfer around the base edge.

Mass produced off shore cams have been seen with little to non of the needed taper to spin even a 100% perfect lifter.

In short take nothing for granted these days!

Beware of running the lightest advance springs, possible, as all too often they fatigue fast and then above 4000 rpm loose control of the advance curvevand then the timing bounces both high and low and before you know it the motor is backfiring thru the carb and you have ignition knock and your then your well on the way to spinning rod bearings or worse!
I know this expensive lesson from having been there in person!

[tom s]

Have the shop take a close look at that 455!cam tunnel.We have had a few issues in 455 blocks.Tom

[Steve C.]

Personally I'd use a higher rocker arm ratio.
With your proposed 1.5 ratio and the resulting 0.470" valve lift your not coming close to your cylinder heads potential.
I suspect the 325 cfm rating on the heads is at 0.700" lift.


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[25stevem]

Also since your swapping over to main studs from bolts the line bore needs to be checked out since they load the main webs different.

[Jay S]

“A perfect set of lifters from 3 sets” and it hasn’t been started yet.

And that is not a bad sign?

96 valve springs? Comp springs have 3 numbers in the part number

[Jay S]

https://butlerperformance.com/i-3164...tegory:1234799

Get yourself a Christmas present. Merry Christmas!

[64speed]

3.70 gears, everything will be align bored for spec, the cam tunnel on my last one had to be honed and oversized bearings installed. Wayne has a way of checking the bottoms of the lifter for runout and he took 3 boxes and made one perfect set of lifters that should spin perfectly on the cam. these are the same studs both main and head that I used before but different block obviously so he will be setting it up for that block. I plan to switch rockers in the future but Crower was adamant about not using anything over that 1.5 until break in was over. I should have no clearance issues with the hood. I was running a Torker II with a spacer before. Keep the suggestions coming.

[25stevem]

As posted it is important with heads ported to that level to run more lift after break in is done.
Your drivability will suffer from low port velocity and not to mention peak hp.
Passing greater levels of air flow down the manifold. and head runners makes for higher port Speed / velocity and a certain minimum level of air speed guarantees good throttle response.

[Steve C.]

Watch your spring pressure with a heavy 2.190" Intake valve diameter. Longer stem length for a tall installed height ?

Watch your port match. Butler recommended intake gasket has a tall 2.350" port opening. As cast the Performer RPM intake port exit opening is 2.06" tall.

( related thread regarding the port match: https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...pted+flow+path )



.

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by 64speed

3.70 gears, everything will be align bored for spec, the cam tunnel on my last one had to be honed and oversized bearings installed. Wayne has a way of checking the bottoms of the lifter for runout and he took 3 boxes and made one perfect set of lifters that should spin perfectly on the cam. these are the same studs both main and head that I used before but different block obviously so he will be setting it up for that block. I plan to switch rockers in the future but Crower was adamant about not using anything over that 1.5 until break in was over. I should have no clearance issues with the hood. I was running a Torker II with a spacer before. Keep the suggestions coming.

Not only do the lifters need to be checked for crown (so they spin) but they need to be checked for leakdown with oil in them. Many fail the test. If you can depress the plunger and oil shoots back at you around the sides of it, the lifter is no good. You also need to measure EVERY lobe on the camshaft for taper (also to spin the lifters). There should be at least .002" height difference from side to side of each lobe. Cams are popping up these days with no taper and are taking out the cam and lifters within minutes. Also, what these gents said: a block cannot be too clean. Plenty of soap and water and compressed air to blow it all out. Rifle cleaning brushes in the oil galleys as well.

[64speed]

The block will be returned to me completely clean and ready for assembly. I will just have to do a double check. The machinist is Wayne Sless. He is listed by Pontiac International Underground as a top builder and also the builder of my previous engine. Block prep was amazing, just driver stupidity.
Someone said my heads will fliw too much and hurt me????? How’s my daily driving gonna be?

[grivera]

If I interpret this correctly SteveM says your throttle response may suffer due to low port velocity.

Originally Posted by 64speed

Someone said my heads will fliw too much and hurt me????? How’s my daily driving gonna be?

Originally Posted by 25stevem

Your drivability will suffer from low port velocity and not to mention peak hp. Passing greater levels of air flow down the manifold. and head runners makes for higher port Speed / velocity and a certain minimum level of air speed guarantees good throttle response.

[hgerhardt]

Originally Posted by Koppster

The performer RPM intake will create a clearance problem if you go with a quadrajet

In a '64 GTO? No problem if you use a drop-base air cleaner like the stock Chevy 14" open-element one which so many people use. https://www.oerparts.com/product/parts/6485239.html

I made a fiberglass mold off of the Chevy base and made a part from that which I grafted into a '67 Ram Air pan for my '66 GTO back in the 90's. And then later when I went to a Street Dominator, I just used a 1" airhorn spacer (or maybe it was 1.25" tall?), so that I could keep using the drop-base air cleaner.

[Vid]

Sounds almost identical to the motor that I just started on. Same CID, same heads (mine are not ported), I went with an Ultradyne 231/239 cam and 1.65 full rollers. FST 850 carb, Hedman 1.75” headers. Muncie M22 and 3:60 Quick 9” rear. I applaud your excellent taste in Pontiac street motors! LOL


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by 64speed

Someone said my heads will fliw too much and hurt me????? How’s my daily driving gonna be?

First of all, highly doubtful. Frankly you would need to know the cross section area of the head before making such a statement. Flow really isn't the whole picture.

Given the fact that the cross section area of the intake ports of conventional Pontiac Kauffman and Edlebrock heads are on the small side, very close to what would be considered decent for a small block chevy, and they are sitting on a much larger 455 with a 4.210 crank, you would have a really hard time hurting any drivability or low speed performance.

Second of all, you've already had this engine running before with those heads and you commented many times on how powerful it was. Ask yourself, but I think you know the answer.

In a nut shell, I wouldn't even worry about it

[25stevem]

You can’t compare minimum port area between a SBC and a Pontiac by comparing there port volume because a SBC head has a intake runner that’s over a inch longer then a Pontiac.
It’s a long way from being apples to apples!

If your running any of the common aftermarket streetable heads on your motor and your not running at least .525” lift then your leaving power ( TQ and HP ) that you payed and maybe waited dearly for on the table big time.

It’s really that simple.

Especially with the stroke of a 455 that is air starved at any rpm above 2400!

It’s all about the higher level of average gas speed ramming the cylinders harder.