[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by General Z

Update: I changed to the Performer RPM intake. I replaced the diaphragm, cork gasket and went to the next to lightest spring on the vacuum secondary. I finally took it for a ride, and there's a noticeable difference. The guys that said the intake was choking it seem to be right. I didn't end up doing step by step testing, just did it all at once. I haven't driven it yet with the G-tech meter set up to see any quarter mile improvement. The difference is big enough that I'm doubting I'll change cams when I pull the engine to do the rear main seal. This 2802 is broken in and doing fine.

I'll still probably lower my shift point from 5000, per the suggestions above and try that.

Thanks everyone for all the support and suggestions.

I would be very interested in what your tests show for performance shifting at 5000 RPM and then trying 4800 RPM. Doing some simulations using information from Dennis' dyno sheets I find 4800 RPM should be 1 tenth slower than 5000 RPM.

Stan

[General Z]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

I would be very interested in what your tests show for performance shifting at 5000 RPM and then trying 4800 RPM. Doing some simulations using information from Dennis' dyno sheets I find 4800 RPM should be 1 tenth slower than 5000 RPM.

Stan

Interesting. There were previous comments about being faster with lower shift points than 5000. I'd sure hate to dink around with them and find it to be slower. IndymanJoe lives right by me. He and I should get together and take a ride in each others cars and see what we think.

[General Z]

Update: The RPM intake, changing the vacuum secondary spring to the lightest and converting the 4160 carb to a 4150 and using size 80 jets in the secondary made a HUGE difference. I no longer feel a need to change much when the engine gets pulled of the rear main. I will change the worn springs to some Crower 68404 springs and put an undersized timing chain on. While the crank is out to do the one piece rear main seal, I'll see if the bearings look worn at all.

I'm plenty happy with the performance now and the 2802 cam with the #96 heads. Perfect street manners and screams when I mash the pedal.

[Formulas]

I knew there was something wrong outside the list of parts

a 455 with a little bit of a cam in it good compression and 3.73 gears should bring a smile at some point..

[General Z]

I finally did a compression test. It was a cold test, with all plugs out. The worst was 185, best was 205. The rest were 195, 190, 200, 195, 190, 200. I'd say that's pretty darn good for a cold compression test on an engine that was last apart 10 plus years ago.

Also, today, I ordered all new gaskets, valve springs, undersized timing set Rollermaster, oil pan, one piece rear main seal. It's time to freshen this thing up, clean it, paint it, might even do header wrap.

[tom s]

I assume the 290 is 190?Tom

[General Z]

Originally Posted by tom s

I assume the 290 is 190?Tom

Yes. I just edited it. Just a typo.

[tom s]

I think I would look at a RA IV ish cam for that engine.Tom

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by General Z

I finally did a compression test. It was a cold test, with all plugs out. The worst was 185, best was 205.

Depending on cam and compression ratio, that's so fantastically "good" that I would want to confirm that the gauge used is accurate.

Most (NOT all) compression testers use an Industrial Interchange (Milton "M" or equivalent) quick-coupler in the hose. A tee, some coupler plugs...and you can test your compression gauge against other gauges; or potentially against the pressure gauge on your air compressor regulator. That only gets you confirmation at whatever air pressure your air compressor can generate, but it's better than no test at all.

[General Z]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

Depending on cam and compression ratio, that's so fantastically "good" that I would want to confirm that the gauge used is accurate.

Most (NOT all) compression testers use an Industrial Interchange (Milton "M" or equivalent) quick-coupler in the hose. A tee, some coupler plugs...and you can test your compression gauge against other gauges; or potentially against the pressure gauge on your air compressor regulator. That only gets you confirmation at whatever air pressure your air compressor can generate, but it's better than no test at all.

You were right. I used a different tester and was at 150. I didn’t test every cylinder.

[indymanjoe]

come grab mine if ya want to go back to back. I have no idea if its accurate. schurkey,s method seems like a good idea.

[track73]

I will tell you what I did with my .030 over 455 with 96 heads, I took Jim Hands advice and used Rhodes lifters with my 041 cam and 1.65 roller rockers. It has so much low end torque and revs to 5000 with no problem. I was irritated with the 3.43 gear on the highway so I installed a cast iron T-10 with a 3.43 first gear and a 2.73 rear end. Now it isn't so bad, I can cruise in town in 3rd gear and it's like a 3 speed with over drive, but i you can still use 4th in town if you don't need to accelerate quickly. And my engine passes emission here in Northwest Indiana with a 800 Q Jet that I rebuilt with a kit designed by Cliff Ruggles.