[baron_]

Yup. Thought about that route

But i'm nervous thinking about 20 small nuts to each screw, holding in the lexan
I thought about adding in loctite, welding nuts shut - etc
But then you can't replace the lexan...which I'm guessing you'll have to do every few years (scratches, etc)

In my way pictured, there is absolutely no way a small piece of metal can drop in and grenade your motor. Things like that help me sleep better at night





I wish I would have found a better tester. I sent the first pair for testing a month ago, and they've seen 3 minutes of idle time. I don't think they'd melt, but I'd like a little more feedback
The edelbrock elites should be done this week

[aronhk_md]

Baron,

Here are some of the ideas I could find. For some of these I imagine a press fit hole could be drilled, press them in from below and leave some of the shaft protruding below but flush at the valve cover top. Around that bit of shaft you put a bit of JB Weld to give it security. Or alow them to protrude a bit from the top of the cover, but drill the lexan hole bigger, so it actually engages the lexan but does not quite sit flush with the top of the lexan.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/80PC-...motiveQ5fTools

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/100-P...motiveQ5fTools

http://cgi.ebay.com/250-T-TEE-INSERT...item2551e038e3

http://cgi.ebay.com/150-KNOCK-INSERT...item53de2e857c

http://cgi.ebay.com/20-Threaded-Bras...item53defc1259

http://cgi.ebay.com/Wholesale-100-Th...item1e59dc881c

[aronhk_md]

I'm looking for a set of valve covers to give this a try. I think what I'll do though is try to mount the polycarbonate inside as someone mentioned. While I may not be able to remove them without taking off the valve covers, I dont then have to worry about the seal leaking as much. I could always change to putting them on the outside if it doesnt work. I'm contacting a couple of people with MT covers for sale.

What method did you use to cut the opening in your covers and mill down the top? I'm actually considering leaving a narrow portion across the top with the breather holes.

[baron_]

A bridgeport

I tried numerous other methods and they were all messy and took far too long.
They look unprofessional and nasty, as well

The bridgeport makes it look quite nice...and gives a good surface for seal

[aronhk_md]

Originally Posted by baron_

A bridgeport

I tried numerous other methods and they were all messy and took far too long.
They look unprofessional and nasty, as well

The bridgeport makes it look quite nice...and gives a good surface for seal

LOL......well, I'm guessing mine arent going to look so hot....I dont have access to a milling machine. But I'm going to try it anyway.

[baron_]

The first pair I played with, without a bridgeport are more trouble than they're worth
You can have 'em for the cost of shipping ($20)
I cut the tops off of them, so they're basically really tall spacers
(could send pictures)
Worthless tho, in my opinion

Without a bridgeport, I wouldn't even recommend trying
Your hand is too wavy and the lexan will never seal, among other issues

MT's and Holley valve covers have one raised spot in 'em that is hell to deal with (the blank name plate area)
If you turn the valve covers over, you'll see what I mean. They don't have a flat surface to seal with
I don't think you could put the lexan underneat with MT's
You'll need fancy billet covers (or maybe just cheapie stamped ones)

[aronhk_md]

Clay....would you mind sending me pics of those? I have a couple of ideas rattling around. My email is herculeaneffort@yahoo.com

Thanks,
Aron

[baron_]

Here ya go, here's a quickie


The other piece is what I'm making to potentially go over the lexan
I haven't milled out the middle yet, though


You can see the annoying raised area of the valve covers, that makes it hard to deal with

[aronhk_md]

Yes I see.....hmmm. Gonna give some thought to those. That piece looks like it would work perfectly once you mill the center. Its great you have access to that machinery.

[baron_]

Yea, a buddy does the milling on a bridgeport = expensive machinery
Without that, I wouldn't try this project.

I spent a few weeks cussing at jigsaws, bandsaws and beltsanders
It's not worth it. I spent $150 or so to royally mess up the pair above (beyond repair) before doing it 'right'

[baron_]

latest and greatest!

These took a while. My fella with a bridgeport is reasonable with prices...but I'm on his schedule


I think these look wonderful.
The window isn't quite as big as the M/T valve covers, but there's more meat there. And they sorta look like they were made for this project
Again, the M/T's have their own advantages tho


I'll see if I can fit some lexan into them tomorrow
I think I like these slightly more...and they're probably more reliable

[aronhk_md]

I want a set Clay! lol. Do you have another set you wanna sell after your guy mills them?

[baron_]

I dropped off another set of M/T's for him to mill
And a set of PPR's (those will be interesting)


I'm supposed to have another set of Elites on the way, but the ebay seller was supposed to have shipped them 3 weeks ago
I had to open a dispute on 'em....

I might sell these after i get 'em done
We'll see how the lexan fitting goes tomorrow

The problem is getting the cores, reasonably priced.

If you want to buy new ones, or send yours...I could put 'em in with mine to get milled
He's charging me $25/cover
Not terribly cheap, but not bad either. And he usually pays pretty good attention to detail

The pain is cutting the lexan perfectly so it looks clean (finding someone else that can do it well)
And sitting there for a few hours with a drill/tap for all the screws

[aronhk_md]

Let me look and see what I can find. I just bought a beautiful set of brand new (they dont make 'em any more) Indian Adventures sheetmetal valve covers. They'd make perfect candidates for this type thing with flat tops, but I cant bring myself to touch them when they get here....lol

[aronhk_md]

I'm thinking you shouldnt need quite as many screws perhaps. Also, what about leaving a bridge of metal for a breather on one end? You'd still get to see most of the rockers.

[baron_]

I like the idea about the bridge of metal for the breathers

I use an evac system, so I've been trying to figure out how to employ them

I was thinking just drill/tap the end or side of the cover and weld in a bung - that might work too...and leave that big window for viewing

[baron_]

spent the morning on them









Trying to decide where to put bolt holes in 'em
You're right: I won't need as many. I probably won't need them at all, if I wanted to use gasket maker
(but probably won't)


And yea, I want to try this with some fab'd valve covers
But haven't wanted to potentially ruin any by trying

I'd probably trade these for your fab valve covers...and have a go with them

[aronhk_md]

LOL....the sheetmetal valve covers are so pretty I dont even want to use them. Tempted to just display them...lol. In all seriousness, I am getting ready to try my hand at powder coating, so I think I might just polish the IA covers and powder coat them clear.

But I DO want to get a set of elites to do this. MY thought is you pop out those fake plastic bolts and use those holes for real bolts....tap them and use good sized bolts with a tab on each that JUST goes over the edge of the lexan..........kinda like some screen doors have. Heck, what about using a copper penny for each tab? Or some other cool coins? You can get old roman coins pretty cheap on ebay. Do you think an inner tube cut to form a gasket would work around that edge?

[66Mutt]

Looks Good!
Thinking about the 1 pc polycarbonate covers and the comments about cracking. Could a thicker piece of polycarbonate be milled and glued / fused onto the bottom flange of the cover? Or I guess it could be glued / sealed on top of another piece of metal flange. I would be more concerned about the heat sitting right on top of the block rather than cracking. Maybe some sort of phenolic flange would not conduct the heat as well.
When I had a motorcycle wreck 10 years ago, I went over the handlebars and over the Mercedes that I T-boned. The Poly carbonate windscreen bent but did not break. It bent enough and had enough force to break the heads off of the fasteners that clamped the polycarbonate between the windshied frame mounting brackets.
Doug

[aronhk_md]

Personally I think the viewing window will look better than entire covers that are clear. Because of the V in V-8 they'l be angled toward the viewer. I'm not sure how you'd make the transition from a metal flange to polycarbonate look decent.