[black_bird]

While I know I won't "need" the block, I thought since I could afford it now, I could go ahead and get it, and have no worries about the block with this motor, and then whenever I decide to upgrade to something with some serious power, that'd be one less thing to have to tackle then.

Of course, theres that view point, and then theres Brian's, which is more or less the exact opposite of that.

[Brian Baker]

Well, Like Ron said, it's true...there are many low 10 second factory blocks in the 600-650 HP range naturally aspirated...installed in 3200 lb. (or less) race cars.

[rumair]

Originally Posted by Brian Baker

Well, Like Ron said, it's true...there are many low 10 second factory blocks in the 600-650 HP range naturally aspirated...installed in 3200 lb. (or less) race cars.

or in 3500 lb. street cars dressed up to look like a race car.

[Brian Baker]

I think it takes a little more HP to push 3500 lbs. to low 10's. It's going to take about 650 at the rear wheels just for a 10.20 at that weight.

[black_bird]

Yeah my car certainly weighs in at more than 3500 lbs, lol, it's no race car. I'll assess my budget and see what I can do, and how long I can wait and be patient for. Thanks for the advice Brian and Ron and everybody

[Jack Gifford]

Aw, come on- spring for the $1,300 (unknown?) billet- so we'll have some feedback on it!

[Ron H]

I just threw 700.00 into a spool and axles for my Ford 9" as I wore out the 28 spline stuff after a couple years of only 500 hp. There is alot of dollars throughout the combo to keep it living, not just the block and crank and rods.

[rumair]

Originally Posted by Brian Baker

I think it takes a little more HP to push 3500 lbs. to low 10's. It's going to take about 650 at the rear wheels just for a 10.20 at that weight.

i dunno, mine made 540 rwhp on the chassis dyno this may a few weeks after it ran the 10.22. we only made one pull with no tuning changes (a/f ratio was perfect), so maybe it makes more than that. i think it will go quicker than that once the good weather gets here in a couple of months.

[KGTO]

Stock block fully prepped 463, Eagle crank 4.210, BME rods, Ross pistions w/ tool steel pins 1983 bob weight. makes 528 N/A at the tires and just over 700 on spray. Thats roughly 900+ HP at the crank. 90% of my passes this season has been on the bottle. 3600 w/ driver 9.40's-9.60's

I have it apart right now. Going to mag the crank. Found trash in the filter ended up being #3 cam bearing walked forward into the cam lobe.

Your call..I am going to an IA2/billet as soon as I can. I wants more power!

[lugnutt]

How much stronger are the"N" cranks? Than the regular cast crank.
I personally wouldnt want to take a chance with a stock crank breaking my MR1 block if I had one!! JUST my .02

[Brian Baker]

A cast crank is a cast crank is a cast crank...when you're making enough power to break one. The "N" cranks are really no better than a new Eagle.

If you're buying an aftermarket block for the sole reason of wanting it to live under "big" power, don't get chincy with the reciprocating assembly by sticking a cast crank in it with the cheapest steel rods you find.

[lugnutt]

:mooning:

[panic]

The difference between cast, forged, billet is strength, not stiffness. Almost no difference in the modulus of elasticity between all iron alloys.
What you need for more stiffness is more journal overlap.

[Jack Gifford]

Yes, the modulus of elasticity in shear is very nearly identical for all iron and steel alloys, cast or wrought. But in tension, the modulus of elasticity of almost all wrought steel alloys is 30% more than nodular iron castings- not what you might expect, eh?
Surprisingly, even 1139 alloy of the '58-62 forged rods ("rubber" rods?) has the same moduli (both tensile & shear) as cast steels commonly used for connecting rods. Anybody know the material designation for Pontiac cast rods?

[Ron H]

[QUOTE=Brian Baker]A cast crank is a cast crank is a cast crank...when you're making enough power to break one. The "N" cranks are really no better than a new Eagle.

So an N crank is no better than an Eagle crank but is it better than a standard Armasteel crank?

[Half-Inch Stud]

Pontiac Cast Rods were Armasteel.

Like spoons vs butterknives,
Like coat hangers vs coiled springs,
ferrous metals are night//day in tension.

Love to see a crankshaft made of coil-spring steel.

[Brian Baker]

[QUOTE=Ron H]

Originally Posted by Brian Baker

A cast crank is a cast crank is a cast crank...when you're making enough power to break one. The "N" cranks are really no better than a new Eagle.

So an N crank is no better than an Eagle crank but is it better than a standard Armasteel crank?

When you're making over 750-800 HP...yes.

[Jack Gifford]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

Pontiac Cast Rods were Armasteel.

Okay... Anybody know an SAE designation for the "Armasteel" alloy?

[Jack Gifford]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

...ferrous metals are night//day in tension.

Sometimes I don't have a clue what HIS is trying to say; this is one of those times! Which ferrous metal in tension is (in some way?) like "night" and which is like "day"???

[Half-Inch Stud]

""""""...ferrous metals are night//day in tension."""""" okay, you got me.

""""Anybody know an SAE designation for the "Armasteel" alloy?"""" uhm, not off hand.

Sooooo, thus far it seems P-Dude has the most-available PMD large-CID billet cranks for the least-cost.