[69redbird]

WTB- Nirous Crankshafts that everyone is using.... Thanks

[rumair]

what is a nitrous crankshaft?

[fasteddy]

Redbird, did you mean nitride?

[Half-Inch Stud]

Pontiac dude has them ...Billet cranks. Stiffer than any other crank.

[screamingchief]

Stiffer than any other crank.

Must be them's cranks nitrided in viagra!?!

ROTFLOL!!!

[Billy177]

unless he means nitrous camshaft

[69redbird]

sorry about that,

I mean what is the best(brand) for taking a big shot of nitrous(250 hp+) and dont have to worry about it. I have seen the nitride. Are the for nitrous motors? Again sorry abou that

[Brian Baker]

You can purchase an old 990 crank, wait for the forgings to come out from AllPontiac, or purchase a billet.

Ken PontiacDude Keefer looks to have the best deal on a billet right now at $1300. That's roughly half of what a billet will cost elsewhere, and not far from what you'll have in a 990 crank once it's machined.

I ran an Eagle 4.25" cast crank with nitrous, but I ran light pistons with aluminum rods. Was making between 750-800 HP, and it lived, but if I were to do it over again, I would never pick another cast crank.

[R 70 Judge]

Originally Posted by Brian Baker

I ran an Eagle 4.25" cast crank with nitrous, but I ran light pistons with aluminum rods. Was making between 750-800 HP, and it lived, but if I were to do it over again, I would never pick another cast crank.

Has anyone ever broken one of these Eagle cranks in an aftermarket IA 2 / MR-1 block before? I'm just curious if the block, not the crank was the first thing to let go. (block flexed/cracked and took out the crank, not the crank taking out the block)

I'm shooting for about the same HP level you were at = 800hp. I'll be running a MR-1 block, Crower 6.8 rods, and a dished Ross piston. Should I be worried? I'm guessing I'll make around 630hp N/A and add a 175 -200 shot of spray.

The shortblock isn't together yet so I guess there's still time to change the crank out. Maybe one of those affordable billets P-Dude is selling? hmmm....

["Puddles the Pontiac"]

any plans, yet, for the release of the forged crank? hey, look, post 455

[rumair]

Originally Posted by R 70 Judge

Has anyone ever broken one of these Eagle cranks in an aftermarket IA 2 / MR-1 block before?

oh yeah, bob and frank at allpontiac put a good hurting on an eagle crank in an IA2 engine making a little over 800 hp on the dyno. i think it lasted less than 20 dyno pulls before the crank gave way to the forces of mother nature.

details about that engine and the crank carnage is posted on the board...try searching for it.

[Brian Baker]

Originally Posted by R 70 Judge

Has anyone ever broken one of these Eagle cranks in an aftermarket IA 2 / MR-1 block before? I'm just curious if the block, not the crank was the first thing to let go. (block flexed/cracked and took out the crank, not the crank taking out the block)

I'm shooting for about the same HP level you were at = 800hp. I'll be running a MR-1 block, Crower 6.8 rods, and a dished Ross piston. Should I be worried? I'm guessing I'll make around 630hp N/A and add a 175 -200 shot of spray.

The shortblock isn't together yet so I guess there's still time to change the crank out. Maybe one of those affordable billets P-Dude is selling? hmmm....

I personally witnessed one get cracked on the dyno (same one rumair mentioned above). It was mounted in an IA-2 block and the last dyno pull of the day (21 pulls total) netted 836-HP. They were spinning it to 7000-7200 rpm for the tests. Guess what? It had steel rods hanging from it. Buy yourself some aluminum rods, or get a forged/billet crank. You have to make the reciprocating assembly as light as possible with these cast cranks at those power levels.

[grnmnstr]

Forged or Billet.
Use aluminum rods and light pistons.

If you use a cast crank, it will flex and possibly crack the block and/or the crank itself.
If you have an MR-1, I would not put in a cast crank if you plan on Nitrous.

[black_bird]

Originally Posted by grnmnstr

If you have an MR-1, I would not put in a cast crank if you plan on Nitrous.

So seriously, if a guy was planning a build of, say 550-600 max N/A HP, and then a 150-200 shot, and it would probably never see over 6400 rpm, would you still recommend a forged or billet piece? If so, that makes me sad

[grnmnstr]

I would not recommend it. 600 NA HP with a cast crank and MR-1 block would be no problem. If you add NOS, ???? Like I said, I, me, wouldn't recommend it.

But I'm sure others will follow and say "No problem"

[Brian Baker]

Originally Posted by black_bird

So seriously, if a guy was planning a build of, say 550-600 max N/A HP, and then a 150-200 shot, and it would probably never see over 6400 rpm, would you still recommend a forged or billet piece? If so, that makes me sad

Start crying.

Like I said, I've tried it, and it lived...using a factory block no less and keeping the rpm below 6800. But I had the lightest parts swinging from that crank that money could buy. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't have been so "penny wise and pound foolish". Hell, Keefer has made upwards of 1000-HP with a factory block and crank, and it lived. There are always exceptions to the norm. Build to whatever level your wallet can afford, but be advised that making the kind of HP you want with a cast crank swinging heavy steel rods is an "iffy" prospect, regardless of rpm. You're already laying out money for an aftermarket block, lay out a little more for a good crank and good rods and never, ever worry about it.

[black_bird]

Originally Posted by Brian Baker

Start crying.

Like I said, I've tried it, and it lived...using a factory block no less and keeping the rpm below 6800. But I had the lightest parts swinging from that crank that money could buy. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't have been so "penny wise and pound foolish". Hell, Keefer has made upwards of 1000-HP with a factory block and crank, and it lived. There are always exceptions to the norm. Build to whatever level your wallet can afford, but be advised that making the kind of HP you want with a cast crank swinging heavy steel rods is an "iffy" prospect, regardless of rpm. You're already laying out money for an aftermarket block, lay out a little more for a good crank and good rods and never, ever worry about it.

I guess that makes sense. But damn, lol, I just wanna go mid-low 11s N/A and then spray it and see what it does, I'm not looking for 8s or anything. Maybe I just won't spray it...as much, lol. Any idea on the price range for the forgings when they come out?

[rumair]

you can place an order for a billet crank with ken today and have it in your hands in february. i think he needs two more orders by November 1 to price them at $1300, otherwise they're closer to $2000.

[Brian Baker]

I thought Ken's $1300 deal was for an offshore billet?

Black Bird...I went down the same road you're looking to go down. Put together a combo using an Eagle 4.25" cast crank and a factory block. Spent at least $2000 on the block and $900 on BME rods, only to have a combo whose weak link was still the block and crank. Nonetheless, it lived. Made somewhere around 50-60 passes on the motor and about 25 passes on the bottle, spraying either a 200 or a 250 shot. At 3850 lbs. race weight, it's bests were 11.40 @ 120 (1.64 60') N/A, 10.22 @ 131 (1.46 60') with a 200 shot, and 10.12 @ 135 (tire spinning 1.58 60') with a 250 shot. Would it have continued to live at this level after 100, 150, or 200 passes? I don't know, but given the money I had in the block and crank, for a little more I could have had a truly bulletproof combo.

Spend once, spend wisely.

[Ron H]

Originally Posted by black_bird

I guess that makes sense. But damn, lol, I just wanna go mid-low 11s N/A and then spray it and see what it does, I'm not looking for 8s or anything. Maybe I just won't spray it...as much, lol. Any idea on the price range for the forgings when they come out?

Why do you think you need an aftermarket block for that? Properly prepped stock blocks and cranks run low 10's N/A all the time.