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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#21
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wow 72-96 hours for recoat seems excessive.
there are a few other brands of wheel paints that are very close to the correct color, i used rustoleum wheel paint for the charcoal & silver & both colors look very nice & pretty close to the original charcoal. much faster drying & holds up to heat & brake dust etc. hard to beat at $5/can. to avoid the scuffing potential some paints require, maybe just roughly mask the charcoal area to avoid getting silver in that area & just concentrate the silver spray on the face of the spokes that get silver, leave most the center area in primer? heres a pic of the rustoleum wheel paint, these are hand masked, not the template & sprayed silver first then charcoal. |
#22
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Both colors are sprayed using base coat, not aerosol. After the silver goes on, it's un-taped and the whole face gets two coats of a flattened urethane clear.
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The Following User Says Thank You to 400 4spd. For This Useful Post: | ||
#23
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However you decide to mask them and whatever paint you decide to use don't forget to paint the backsides battleship gray first. If you leave the backsides cruddy looking they WILL show through the openings.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
The Following User Says Thank You to Greg Reid For This Useful Post: | ||
#24
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Seems like if the center is charcoal, you'd almost want the same dark showing through backside openings rather than contrasting the two colors.
One thing that threw me off when I started this venture was, someone painted these rims charcoal around the perimeter bands of rim. So, the only silver was the spokes and small inside band connecting them all. |
#25
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Got them painted and looks better than I thought. The vinyl stickers for the spokes work wonderful. Taping the rest wasn't bad.
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#26
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Quote:
Did you scuff at all before second colour? No lifting issues when unmasking? Thanks
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Michael 1970 Oshawa built 1 option Judge. 24 year restoration/upgrade project finally finished! 1979 Trans Am - low-buck drag car project for when I retire |
#27
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24 hours. Lightly scuffed with scotchbrite. No lifting after pulling tape after paint applied to that surface. Pulled the tape about 12 hours after it was applied with zero issues. Charcoal color paint applied well over previously painted silver.
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#28
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Anyone powder coat silver, then spray charcoal centers? I’m toying with that idea .
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#29
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Quote:
Ended up blasting the face of the wheels back to bare metal and starting over with epoxy primer. The power coating was super durable and very hard to blast off, but the charcoal just had nothing to bite into.
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Michael 1970 Oshawa built 1 option Judge. 24 year restoration/upgrade project finally finished! 1979 Trans Am - low-buck drag car project for when I retire |
#30
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I would guess if you power coat, you would have to tape and scuff the powder coat good for adhesion of next color. I doubt Wheel Vin does that during their process.
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#31
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I powder coated some Rallye IIs and the car sat outside here in Florida. Before a year they were rusting down in the groove between the rim and the hub. The next time I did some wheels I painted them. POR 15 down in the that spot, then primer then paint, all with a brush. More than 10 years later, outside the whole time, no rust at all.
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