[hal101]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Ruling out engine getting tight when hot, ignition timing and you've got a known good starter and battery.
The hotter copper gets the more ressistance it has to amp flow. And it goes up alot more than you would think. So, wires, battery cables, windings in starter and solenoid...takes alot more amps to make them work when hot.
Think about cars with HEI ignition. Wires under the dash are 14 AWG while the wire under the hood is 12 AWG. Bigger wire to make up the difference from under hood temperatures.
Usually running a bigger wire from bulkhead connector to starter solenoid will cure hot no solenoid click problems without changing wire size under the dash.

That what you was asking about?
Clay

actuly no i was asking about the use of the steel frame for a ground but thank you for your reply

[TedRamAirII]

The body and engine used as a ground works just fine. Every car made, uses it, even cars with trunk mounted batteries, If it was a problem the OEM's would certainly use another method.

[Lee]

Run a jumper cable from the negative battery post to a good ground on your engine, direct to the starter would be best. THEN try starting the motor. If it starts better, then you have a deficiency in the ground circuit.

[ta man]

Have you tried a good known battery?

[First Bird]

I found the combination of Pontiac engine and trunk mounted battery to be one of the biggest challenges of my build. After improving the cooling system, starting system, electrical system, ignition and carb over 18 months, I finally have a reliable start no matter the weather.

Cooling:
Aluminum radiator
Clutch fan
Tight shroud
Clearanced water pump divider

Starting:
Mini starter
Remote solenoid
Big Odyssey battery (on tender in garage)
Custom 00-gauge battery cables
Web of cables connecting engine, starter, frame, firewall, radiator support

Electrical:
MAD Electrical power distribution system

Ignition:
Ground wire for distributor
Verify TDC. with piston stop both directions
Dial in Timing
Relay for HEI so it gets at least 12.7v from battery instead of fuse panel

Carb:
Rebuilt with correct float level, jetting, accellerator pump
Fuel lines insulated
Carburetor heat shield - this helped reduce heat soak

And this last gem of advice that really helps sometimes:
Depress gas pedal a very small amount while cranking

[FrankieT/A]

I suspect your Jeg's mini starter.

[455wagon]

Do you have the starter brace at the back of the starter. They are heavy and need a little help. Installing one helped me with the exact same issue.
I did have to fab my own....but it was pretty easy.

[bobby326]

I never heard of a starter brace. Would you still need one fir a mini starter.

[steve25]

The brace stops the twisting action from the cranking torque load, but is not part of your hard start issue I would say!