[bobby326]

No matter what i do i cant fix my hot start problems. I have a mild 400 with Eheads and 2802 cam. Dougs ceramic headers that i have wraped with exhaust wrap were the starter is and just wraped the starter with DEI starter wrap sheild. Ignition is msd and initial is set at 12-14 i cant remenber exactly with yhe 18 degree bushing. I even have an ignition switch to help with starting. When cold it starts fine but after driving for a bit when I shut it off and try to restart it, it cranks like the battery is going dead. Have to let it sit for 20 minutes or so then it will start up. Starter is a jegs mini starter . I am all out of ideas. Anybody has has any advice or tips please let me know.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Are you saying with ignition off or disabled the engine still turns over slow?

Clay

[dmac]

Is it physically hot? Could be something other than starter, possibly timing issue/choke exacerbated by the temp. And if it has been running, and you shut it off, and then immediately try to restart, does it start easily?

[bobby326]

With the ignition switch on or off it cranks the same. Carb settings serm to be fine. What if i disl back my initial timing back a few degrees. Whould that help at all

[dmac]

Putting your initial timing back could help. Does it restart easy if you try after just a few seconds when you shut it down? And what temp does it normally run at?

[tom s]

I would look at the battery.I had the same issue a couple years ago.Start cold fine,when hot not so good.Put a new one in and no issue .Tom

[grivera]

What size battery cables?

[bobby326]

Engine runns a little hot. 200 degrees. If i try and start it as soon as i shut off same thing. Batt should be good. Maybe two years old. Ill put a charger on it overnight to get it to pull power

[bobby326]

Battery is in truck with selonoid with 0 gauge wire to starter.

[bobby326]

Also have 105 amp alternator with 4 gauge wire back to battery

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by bobby326

Battery is in truck with selonoid with 0 gauge wire to starter.

Originally Posted by bobby326

Also have 105 amp alternator with 4 gauge wire back to battery

Battery-in-the-trunk, starter-won't-crank problems are almost always due to using a sh!tty steel ground circuit instead of copper. Steel is a crappy conductor compared to copper. Uni-bodies are the worst, where the ground circuit involves current flow through spot-welds, some of which are probably broken from body flex.

WHAT CAR IS THIS? Describe your ground circuit from starter to battery - post.

I have seen starters that don't crank properly when hot. The windings are faulty, and maybe the brushes and bushings are worn-out. MOSTLY, this has been with OEM starters, not mini-starters. I think this is because there's a lot more OEM starters than mini-starters.

As said, a faulty battery can cause hard-cranking problems; although this isn't really related to engine temperature.

An engine with too-little piston-to-wall clearance can be hard-cranking when hot--the hot pistons don't want to move in the cylinders.

My guess is "negative circuit" based on the number of people complaining about cranking problems when they put the battery at the wrong end of the vehicle, and then don't use a copper ground cable. A voltage-drop test would prove the matter one way or the other.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by bobby326

Engine runns a little hot. 200 degrees.

Not hot enough to cause engine damage, but why is that hot? 192 thermostat? Temp gauge not accurate?

Originally Posted by bobby326

Ill put a charger on it overnight to get it to pull power

A fully-charged battery should read 12.6--12.7 volts once the surface charge has dissipated. Fresh off the charger, they might be over 13 volts, but that surface charge is misleading. It should settle down to 12.6--12.7 after an hour or two; or after a small load has been put on it.

[bobby326]

Believe i have a 185 thermostat in it. Have grounds all over car. 67 lemans. Batt ground to rear frame. Starter grounded (0 gauge) to frsme. Block grounded to frame. Alternator is grounded to block. Inner fenders and core support grounded to frame. Ill see if i can check voltage at starter when cranking tomorrow. Thank you for replies

[steve25]

If the test out in post 11 checks good and you still have a factory starter put that in , drive the car for ten minutes then shut it off and then immediately restart it , if that works then you have a bad new starter.

[tom s]

I have to ask if this is a street car why is the battery in the trunk?Tom

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by bobby326

With the ignition switch on or off it cranks the same. Carb settings serm to be fine. What if i disl back my initial timing back a few degrees. Whould that help at all

Changing timing won't help if it still turns over slow with ignition disabled.

Where bouts you located? I've got good test equipment for trouble shooting problems like this. Battery tester that shows volts and amps, inductive pickup amp meter....you can follow amp flow from start to finish and see where it's dropping its cookies.

Clay

[hal101]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

Battery-in-the-trunk, starter-won't-crank problems are almost always due to using a sh!tty steel ground circuit instead of copper. Steel is a crappy conductor compared to copper. Uni-bodies are the worst, where the ground circuit involves current flow through spot-welds, some of which are probably broken from body flex.

WHAT CAR IS THIS? Describe your ground circuit from starter to battery - post.

I have seen starters that don't crank properly when hot. The windings are faulty, and maybe the brushes and bushings are worn-out. MOSTLY, this has been with OEM starters, not mini-starters. I think this is because there's a lot more OEM starters than mini-starters.

As said, a faulty battery can cause hard-cranking problems; although this isn't really related to engine temperature.

An engine with too-little piston-to-wall clearance can be hard-cranking when hot--the hot pistons don't want to move in the cylinders.

My guess is "negative circuit" based on the number of people complaining about cranking problems when they put the battery at the wrong end of the vehicle, and then don't use a copper ground cable. A voltage-drop test would prove the matter one way or the other.

im sure you know more than i but how dose this apply to temp of motor ?

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by hal101

im sure you know more than i but how dose this apply to temp of motor ?

Ruling out engine getting tight when hot, ignition timing and you've got a known good starter and battery.
The hotter copper gets the more ressistance it has to amp flow. And it goes up alot more than you would think. So, wires, battery cables, windings in starter and solenoid...takes alot more amps to make them work when hot.
Think about cars with HEI ignition. Wires under the dash are 14 AWG while the wire under the hood is 12 AWG. Bigger wire to make up the difference from under hood temperatures.
Usually running a bigger wire from bulkhead connector to starter solenoid will cure hot no solenoid click problems without changing wire size under the dash.

That what you was asking about?
Clay

[bobby326]

Battery in trunk just to make engine compartment neater. I have a detailed engine compartment. Smooth and paint firewall, oainted inner fenders and smooth and oainted cire support. I live on long island quicksilver. Thank you for your offer. My days off are Wednesday to Friday so ill see if i can get a buddy over to do some troubleshooting.

[bobby326]

Battery in trunk just to make engine compartment neater. I have a detailed engine compartment. Smooth and paint firewall, painted inner fenders and smooth and painted core support. I live on long island quicksilver. Thank you for your offer. My days off are Wednesday to Friday so ill see if i can get a buddy over to do some troubleshooting.