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Old 06-13-2017, 05:17 PM
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Default 428 install, what to do?

Finally got the energy to put the engine in the GTO so here's a maybe stupid question.....
The 428 with #16 head (screw in studs) 800cfm Buick quadrajet and possible a 041 camshaft connected with a th400 was bought unheard and cheap.
It run when lifted out of another GTO 66 (LS swap) according to the owner but it could have a slight knock when taken out of winter storage. From what I heard did this engine ran pretty strong but I have no idea whats done with it.
Should i just drop it in the car and cross my fingers or should I check lifters and cam chain before installing it? What would you do?
The idea is to reinstall the original 389 when i got the funds to rebuilt it.

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Old 06-13-2017, 05:35 PM
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I would at least try to run it on a stand before you drop it in the car. It would suck to do that work only to find out that there is a knock and something is wrong with it.

Start it up, get it up to temp and check for leaks, weird noises, poor running etc. Do a good diagnostic on it and if you can give it a clean bill of health, throw it in. If there's something wrong with it you can then decide whether you want to correct that issue or not.

What I personally would do in that last situation is sell it and put those funds towards your ultimate goal to get the 389 back in it. But, as I said, that's for you to decide.

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Old 06-13-2017, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.J. View Post
it could have a slight knock when taken out of winter storage.
It's certainly a personal decision but I can't see putting time, effort, and money into an installation only to find problems. Especially an engine that "could have a slight knock".

I would either sell the 428 to help fund a properly built 389 or have the 428 disassembled, inspected, and rebuilt.

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Old 06-13-2017, 05:58 PM
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I maybe lost a bit in the translation. The knock was more like a lifter noise, tick, rattle, not a rod bearing knock according to the previous owner (a nice guy who recently contacted me asking if I had run the engine yet)

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Old 06-13-2017, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.J. View Post
I maybe lost a bit in the translation. The knock was more like a lifter noise, tick, rattle, not a rod bearing knock according to the previous owner (a nice guy who recently contacted me asking if I had run the engine yet)
Having not ever seen or heard the engine run previously, I would still defer to at least trying to run it on a stand first. It's considerably less amount of work then putting the engine in and then finding out there's a problem.

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Old 06-13-2017, 06:55 PM
TedRamAirII TedRamAirII is offline
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If you think it just may be a cold lifter tick....I would put it in. Easy enough to pull the intake and replace a lifter if needed. Is it possible to find the bad lifter before you hear it in action? I wonder? Maybe go over them and find a soft one? After it has sat for a while, it may take running a while to work out a lifter that has a slight leak. 428TTF!

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Old 06-14-2017, 06:19 AM
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If it had any possibility of knock and you do not pull the oil pan now to look at bearings then you asking for trouble!

You can also check the oil pump, tack weld its pick up on if it is not now and replace the oil pump drive shaft with a HD one.

A half a day's work now can save you days of pain latter!

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Old 06-14-2017, 06:45 AM
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What about going to an engine dyno for a day? you could find out if the engine sounds healthy and dial it in.

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Old 06-14-2017, 06:48 AM
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While you have it on the stand I would at least pull the both pans..the valley and the oil pans. At least look at the cam, lifters, etc. but then again, I'm an incorrigible tinkerer. Hard for me to have a new to me engine on a stand and not take a look.

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Last edited by Greg Reid; 06-14-2017 at 06:54 AM.
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Old 06-14-2017, 07:42 AM
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Put the motor on a dyno to find out if it will blow up, really?!
Would you light your house on fire to find out what's not flammable in it?

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And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs!

1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set.

Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks.

1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes.
Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph.

Education is what your left with once you forget things!
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Old 06-14-2017, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve25 View Post
Put the motor on a dyno to find out if it will blow up, really?!
Would you light your house on fire to find out what's not flammable in it?
Would I burn down my quarter million dollar house to find out whats flammable in it vs would I spend a few hundred dollars to ops check a used motor on an engine dyno. Unless you live in an INCREDIBLY cheap house, your comparison game is weak.

All joking aside. If he thinks the motor is supposed to be good, but wants piece of mind, I would absolutely pay to have it run on the dyno. If it fires up and runs well you have the added benefit of having it tuned there so its just plug and play when you get it home.

If its probably good, but not sure I would ops check it, if its probably bad, but not sure I would take it apart. That being said especially if its only a maybe on what the cam is its cheap enough I might replace the cam and lifters while its out.

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Last edited by RocktimusPryme; 06-14-2017 at 08:46 AM.
  #12  
Old 06-14-2017, 08:42 AM
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If the car has AC then check engine before install.

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Old 06-14-2017, 08:45 AM
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On second thought.....I like pulling the pan down and pulling some bearings, just for a look see. Also inspect the oil pump. I dont know about a "tack weld" that's not a good idea, as a MIG doesn't weld cast iron. I've seen 2 oil pump pickups laying in the pan that were welded like that. Now is the time to pull the intake and inspect the lifters /cam. GM had a lifter tester, mostly a cup that held a light weight oil/fluid and a weight that depressed the lifter, and you timed how long it took to go down. I suppose you could make a home made tester like that and compare them all to find a bad one, and take the lifter apart and make sure its clean. Then clean everything and paint it up nice. You may change your mind about a 389. Think of it as a 1/4" stroker. ; )

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Old 06-14-2017, 09:39 AM
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Could be bad if you didn't hear it running! How many miles? Previously rebuilt? By Who?
How long has the motor sat, does it turn over by hand??
Lots of easy fixes before you install......new oil pump & pan gasket, rear main seal.
Cam, lifters & timing chain.
If you install first and have bad rings and or a knock this will just set you back. Maybe push to the back and then the cars sits with a bad engine.

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Old 06-14-2017, 09:56 AM
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If the engine is out already, give it a once-over. No question.

George

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Old 06-14-2017, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.J. View Post
I maybe lost a bit in the translation. The knock was more like a lifter noise, tick, rattle, not a rod bearing knock according to the previous owner (a nice guy who recently contacted me asking if I had run the engine yet)
Check the exhaust manifolds for leaks. An exhaust leak sounds like a bunch of lifter tick.........

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Old 06-14-2017, 11:07 AM
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Your assuming he can run it in a stand with a full Exh system are you not?

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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs!
And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs!

1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set.

Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks.

1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes.
Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph.

Education is what your left with once you forget things!
  #18  
Old 06-14-2017, 03:56 PM
TedRamAirII TedRamAirII is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve25 View Post
Your assuming he can run it in a stand with a full Exh system are you not?
Look for a sooty area at each exhaust port, top and bottom.

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Old 06-14-2017, 04:49 PM
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I have run an engine on the stand, and it was too loud to hear much of anything like a lifter tick unless it had mufflers attached.

If your car is an automatic without ac, then you don't have too much crap to mess with. Just give it a try.

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Old 06-14-2017, 05:41 PM
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I would check the main and rod bearings and cam/lifters first before installing, You can also do a leakdown test with a compressor and plug fitting to get an idea what shape the bore and rings are in.

If needed, you can freshen up the bottom end with bearings if the crank looks OK. Use Plastigage to check the clearances. If the cam and lifters are worn, you can replace them and install a timing set, oil pump and pickup.

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