[Hanzel]

With kids in the back from time to time, I realize that have to do something with my rims or suspension because my rims and hitting my fenders to often. Seems to be that only my rims are hitting the fenders and not the tires. Now, the tires/rims are quite new when I bought this car, so if possible I would like to leave it this way.
So I have the 3 options,
- change the suspension but still have the risk to hit the fenders
- Use bumpstops, don't what the general experience with some product is (??)
- cut out some piece of the fenders

What is the best solution?

ps, I pumped the air suspension up to 58 psi but still no go.
(on this moment im on work and I don't now exactly the tire size..)

[b-man]

You could swap the rear end for the early narrow version used from 1964 through mid-1966.

The earlier rear is 1" narrower (1/2" per side) and is 60" from drum to drum where the wheels mount.

Measure yours to see which rear you have to see if this is an option.

Don't cut the body.

Another option would be to take a cut on the back side of the wheel on the mounting flange, any good machine shop should be able to take somewhere between 1/8" and 1/4" off without hurting the integrity of the wheel. This should be enough to take care of the problem.

[gotyorgoat]

Another option would be to take a cut on the back side of the wheel on the mounting flange, any good machine shop should be able to take somewhere between 1/8" and 1/4" off without hurting the integrity of the wheel. This should be enough to take care of the problem.

X2!

[Andre]

By air suspension, do you mean air shocks or air bags in the rear coil springs? Since this problem only happens with extra weight in the car, I believe the easy fix would be air bags.
If hooked up to a small compressor in the trunk, you can control independently using a toggle under the dash.
If you already have air bags installed it will require a note complicated fix.

[GT182]

If he has airbags, 58#s of air is a lot too much and the springs must be stretched to their limit. Not good. If airshocks, that's not good either. I'm surprised either didn't or hasn't blown up yet.

If you have 17 or 18" rims and tires, they might be too big for your suspension and the back spacing is all wrong for them to fit in the wheel wells. Or your rear (car rear ) might be to wide for the rims and tires to fit.... like B-man said.

I'm running 255/60x15s on my 66 GTO with airbags and airshocks for the rear. No problems at all with 15 to 18#s of air in each set. And the tires don't touch anything but the pavement.

[b-man]

From the looks of the car and the mention of "air suspension" the car is bagged, no coil springs at least in the rear.

The only problem here is either wheel backspacing being too shallow or the wheels are just plain too wide if a backspace adjustment or a narrower rear axle won't cure it.

If the wheels are not too wide to fit the width of the wheel wells then having the rear end custom-narrowed to suit is the ultimate solution and really not that expensive.

[Andre]

Yet the problem only happens when the car is loaded. Maybe grinding of the wheel well sheet metal lip would be sufficient?

[Hanzel]

Thank you guys for your comments!

Regarding the superlift shock asorbers:
http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/stati...Manual-46.html
is should be a max of 90psi (??)
No air ride or something installed further

Switch over to a different rear end is not an option, unforntunally '60 ponitac parts are quite rare over here, and to ship it over here isn't worth it, i quess.

My tires or rims, still not sure, hit the fenders also unloaded driving too hard over a bump. The only damage i can see is only the rims and not the tires (no rim protection). The tires are 235 both front and rear, and i tought 30 high, so really thin ,
(To be honest the little damage of the rims can also be from the sidewalks on the past)

What b-man said, on the looks, comparison with other lemans/gto, my wheels are disappearing into the fenders. Or is this due the fact tart wheels are so thin? For sure my rear is too low. I will make some pics and waiting for more advise from you Pro's

But cutting of the mounting plate on the back is guessing my first option, now finding a good body shop to do this..

[GT182]

I don't know about 90psi but I know I'd never put that much pressure in my airshocks. 20#s minimum is ok but a max of 30 is as high as I'd ever go, and only for a short time.

If you put so much weight in your trunk as to need 90#s of air, I'd say you'd better haul that stuff with a truck or tow it with trailer.

How wide are your rims and what's size are they... 16"?, 17"?, 18"?

If you have a set of 15x7 or 8" rims and P225 or 235 tires, give them a try and see what happens. Borrow some from a friend if you have too, but do try them if you can and see what happens. You might save yourself a lot of headaches in the long run.

[b-man]

Those are definitely 20" wheels.

Not much you can do with the suspension, the wheels will need to move inward to solve the problem.

How you accomplish that is up to you, narrowing the rear or taking a cut on the wheel mounting face are really your only two options other than buying a different set of wheels.

[GT182]

Bart, the inner lip on those rear quarters is pretty wide... almost an inch past the moldings on my 66 GTO. He could shave it down to at least the moldings on each side. That might help him out a lot, and save some money. Easy to do too with a hand held 4" portable angle grinder.

[b-man]

Originally Posted by GT182

Bart, the inner lip on those rear quarters is pretty wide... almost an inch past the moldings on my 66 GTO. He could shave it down to at least the moldings on each side. That might help him out a lot, and save some money. Easy to do too with a hand held 4" portable angle grinder.

Certainly doable, as long as he's careful not to get into the spot welds that secure the quarter panel to the inner wheel house.

As long as the inner wheel house doesn't stick out far enough to hit the wheel he'll be home free.

[GT182]

I agree. He just has to make sure he grinds down the inner lip only up to but not get into the moldings, and stay away from the welds.

[Andre]

Shaving it down is one way to go, but it can also be done by using a hack saw or wheel and cutting radial groves spaced about a 3/8" to 1/2" apart at the apex of the wheel well and folding the tabs upwards and outwards. Using the ww molding as a guide should make it easy to do.

Still not sure what air suspension you are running Air bags would certainly dampen your rear coils and prevent spring compression and resulting intereference.

[Hanzel]

For 99% sure they are 20''. Yesterday evening I checked and the rims didn't touch the inner lip (1/8 inch left), not even when I push quite hard on the trunk :s, so I couldn't reproduce it by hand . So i'm not sure if narrowing the inner lip (which is at least a inch) would help..

@ Andre, sorry for the confusion but by air suspension, I meant the standard superlift option.

A local car shop recommend a pair of these to try before cutting
http://www.lowering.nl/Shop/index.ph...egrenzers.html

Suspension should be get a bit stiffer, increase the driveability. I will let you now the results..

[hottrodd]

If are fine under normal driving install some variable rate rear springs, I would guess your old rear springs r wore out.

[GT182]

Standard Superlift option is airshocks.

It could also be the air shocks are worn out if they are the original Superlift option airshocks, or leak air with more than normal car weight.

For wide tires, removing the excess lip will help. I wouldn't recommend leaving any of it permanently bent upwards, if that's what Andre meant. If not Andre I apologize. But bent up like that will collect dirt and crap causing eventual rusting out.

[Hanzel]

Originally Posted by GT182

Standard Superlift option is airshocks.

It could also be the air shocks are worn out if they are the original Superlift option airshocks, or leak air with more than normal car weight.

For wide tires, removing the excess lip will help. I wouldn't recommend leaving any of it permanently bent upwards, if that's what Andre meant. If not Andre I apologize. But bent up like that will collect dirt and crap causing eventual rusting out.

Good tip, Gary! Any tips to see if my air suspension is wore out, or my springs are wore out?

[GT182]

For the shocks.... spray soapy water on the hose connections and up into where the rubber bladder is. If you see bubbles, then you know.

For the springs.... that's not so easy. Just you saying extra weight makes the rear sag is one clue. But that also means the airshocks are a part of the problem.

[Hanzel]

Originally Posted by hottrodd

If are fine under normal driving install some variable rate rear springs, I would guess your old rear springs r wore out.

Hhmm, the spring blocks as installed didn't helped, the distance between the rings is too big.

Because I guess I have to look for new springs. The question now is, will new standard springs be a lot stiffer en would that be enough, or should I go for adjustable springs or variable rate rear springs. (Bare I mind that rims doesn't touch the outside fender strip, but the tires touch it inside of the fender)

Anyone a recommendation for a brand?