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  #241  
Old 11-26-2013, 11:53 PM
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Well,if it was not for bad luck I would have no luck at all!Joe was setting the valves and something did not work!Looks like I gave him a RA V cam which has a diff valve placement on 4-6 and 3-5.Now we have to order a cam.CRAP!Tom
Just going to shake my head and cry now........

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  #242  
Old 11-27-2013, 10:25 AM
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I had two cams in my draw,one cam card said V on it the other did not SOooo I just assumed it was std.Should have had Joe check it before he buttoned it up.100 percent my fault.Live and learn.Tom

  #243  
Old 12-08-2013, 08:43 PM
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  #244  
Old 12-08-2013, 10:49 PM
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Yup, watching for updates.

Mark L

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  #245  
Old 12-09-2013, 10:57 AM
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New cam is in,rockers are in,waiting for new pushrods as the change in base circle and diff rockers required them.Maybe mid next week for pics and a pull on the pump.Tom

  #246  
Old 12-09-2013, 11:23 AM
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Looking forward to it.

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1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core.
  #247  
Old 12-16-2013, 07:02 PM
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OK,slight hiccup,header on drivers side when reversed hit the motor mount boss on the block,sooo we took the pass side header back today to alter the rear tube where it interfered with the oil filter location.Hope to have it back to Joe in the AM and on the pump wed AM.Tom

  #248  
Old 12-16-2013, 07:24 PM
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Getting CLOSER.....I can't wait.

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  #249  
Old 12-17-2013, 11:22 PM
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The nightmare wont end.Got the pass side fixed.Put the bellhousing on and the drivers side hits.I said WTF?Wait,the deck is a inch shorter!It moves the headers closer to the block,starter and bell housing!We worked on the drivers side today,going back to Joes in the AM to test fit again.These are my dyno headers that were built for my 63 421 Tempest years ago by Jess Tyree,hate cutting and rewelding them but when we are done they will fit any D port we put on the pump.Would have been SOOoo much easyer if I was not so pig headed and just used castiron manifolds.Tom

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  #250  
Old 12-17-2013, 11:47 PM
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Tom,

You're in uncharted waters. These things WILL happen.

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  #251  
Old 12-17-2013, 11:57 PM
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Thy drama soon shall end! I know EXACTLY where you're coming from Tom! Sometimes it seems like every part you try to install, doesn't fit right for one reason or another.

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  #252  
Old 12-18-2013, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom s View Post
The nightmare wont end.Got the pass side fixed.Put the bellhousing on and the drivers side hits.I said WTF?Wait,the deck is a inch shorter!It moves the headers closer to the block,starter and bell housing!We worked on the drivers side today,going back to Joes in the AM to test fit again.These are my dyno headers that were built for my 63 421 Tempest years ago by Jess Tyree,hate cutting and rewelding them but when we are done they will fit any D port we put on the pump.Would have been SOOoo much easyer if I was not so pig headed and just used castiron manifolds.Tom
Tom,
Sound like by the time you are done you will have enough material to write a book on this build.

Stan

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  #253  
Old 12-18-2013, 10:58 AM
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That had to hurt, big time.

The manifolds would have killed the numbers, though.

BOB

  #254  
Old 12-18-2013, 11:32 AM
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That had to hurt, big time.

The manifolds would have killed the numbers, though.

BOB
I don't think they would. Our tests on a 500+ HP 400 showed only a 16 HP gain going from a complete 2 1/2" exhaust system with X-pipe, mufflers and the 2 1/2" RA manifolds RA Restorations sells, to open headers. That was with Ported aluminum heads.

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  #255  
Old 12-18-2013, 11:34 AM
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Stan you right!We are so damn close it hurts!The real deal is that if anyone with the 77-81 ish car wants to do it all the info will be there.The only expensive part is the intake manifold.The pistons and rods are same price as any build,the crank can be bought for cheap.the spacer was $80.All the research has been done IF it all works.If we spill everything on to Joes shop floor it will just be a project that failed,wont be my first and wont be my last.I remember when I built the alu block V engine,put it on the dyno,turned on the water and filled the engine with water because of voids in the block.Tom

  #256  
Old 12-18-2013, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom s View Post
Stan you right!We are so damn close it hurts!The real deal is that if anyone with the 77-81 ish car wants to do it all the info will be there.The only expensive part is the intake manifold.The pistons and rods are same price as any build,the crank can be bought for cheap.the spacer was $80.All the research has been done IF it all works.If we spill everything on to Joes shop floor it will just be a project that failed,wont be my first and wont be my last.I remember when I built the alu block V engine,put it on the dyno,turned on the water and filled the engine with water because of voids in the block.Tom


Tom, just a quick question for someone wanting to duplicate this build, on the exhaust manifolds with the deck being 1" shorter and causing your interference.

Knowing this now, could a fellow have the top rolled edge of the exhaust port on the head, angle milled to "straighten up" the header/manifold?

I guess I was thinking that just angle milling that back a bit, (yeah you would probably have to drill/retap the manifold bolt holes a bit) that it might give you enough clearance.

It's not a huge deal to rework a set of headers, but I was just thinking of someone wanting to bolt on a set of Ram Air manifolds.



Thanks Stan

  #257  
Old 12-18-2013, 12:48 PM
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Dont know if they would fit the 77-81 frame but I would angle mill the exhaust manifold I think.If everything goes well I will test fit some to see what I would be up against.Stock 301 N/A exhaust would be the easiest for sure.Tom

  #258  
Old 12-18-2013, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Transporter View Post
Tom, just a quick question for someone wanting to duplicate this build, on the exhaust manifolds with the deck being 1" shorter and causing your interference.

Knowing this now, could a fellow have the top rolled edge of the exhaust port on the head, angle milled to "straighten up" the header/manifold?

I guess I was thinking that just angle milling that back a bit, (yeah you would probably have to drill/retap the manifold bolt holes a bit) that it might give you enough clearance.

It's not a huge deal to rework a set of headers, but I was just thinking of someone wanting to bolt on a set of Ram Air manifolds.



Thanks Stan
If my math is correct a 1" lower deck should move the exhaust flange about 3/4" closer to the crank centerline both horizontally and vertically.

Stan

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  #259  
Old 12-18-2013, 02:44 PM
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Well it looks like were good to go.Joe is going to button it up and get it on the pump and fire it up.He will get ahold of me and maybe do some pulls this weekend.tom
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  #260  
Old 12-18-2013, 04:47 PM
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Good news Tom, as everyone else has said, I can't wait to see what it does.

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