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#1
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The kid doing the video hit on a couple of things that I believe pinpoint the mistakes many people have made with the Alsa Corp Killer Chrome. I guarantee you'll have the same problems with the Alclad if you don't follow these clues he mentioned...
At least, that's been my experience with the Alsacorp stuff. Next time, I'll definitely try the Alclad from the local hobby shop, since I had already decided that if I bought more of the Killer Chrome from Alsa Corp, I was just going to get the silver. $10 a bottle at the hobby shop is a heck of a deal when compared to the $50 can from Alsa Corp. I can do my own black with Krylon Rust Tough. It has a great gloss and that's key to the chrome-like finish.. Here's one I did with the Killer Chrome. Excuse the warped plastic at the top of the bezel. I have a better (and unmolested) core now that I am now going to try the Alclad on.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia Last edited by Greg Reid; 12-14-2013 at 04:35 PM. |
#2
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Greg - Please clarify something... people always mention "very light coats. Well....does that mean, based on your experience with WHAT WORKED, that.... >You spray very light coats but MANY of them until you have a completely "chrome" looking surface. In other words, until the underlying black is COMPLETELY HIDDEN???? OR... >You only spray a few light coats and leave a somewhat transparent finish with the black still "showing through"....ie..black not completely hidden?? Another poster above alluded to these "light coats" as well I believe. So....two different techniques/end results I am asking about and BOTH use light coats. Difference is in how well hidden the underlying black is. I'm not referring at all to the clear in these questions....just the second stage (the "chrome" paint itself). Thanks
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Patton Glade 70Post Restorations Austin, TX 64-72 GM A-Body Gas Tank Pads http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/...tion-item.html |
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