[JUDGE3]

Iv'e had a lot of pontiacs and never had the leak at the waterpump to crossover seal leak.

now I do. can you get just the rubber seal without having to buy the gasket set?

anyone have a better method of sealing this area?

[tom s]

If you cant find one I will mail you ones.Tom

[lust4speed]

Is the crossover pulled up and making contact with the timing cover? It might not have been pulled all the way forward before the manifold was torqued down. I also coat each side of the donut with Ultra Grey before assembly and then let things set up for 24 hours before putting coolant back in the system. Some of the newer donuts included in the gasket kits are a little thin and you should have at least the thickness of a nickel sticking out of the cavity when the donut is set in place in the manifold.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

Is the crossover pulled up and making contact with the timing cover? It might not have been pulled all the way forward before the manifold was torqued down. I also coat each side of the donut with Ultra Grey before assembly and then let things set up for 24 hours before putting coolant back in the system. Some of the newer donuts included in the gasket kits are a little thin and you should have at least the thickness of a nickel sticking out of the cavity when the donut is set in place in the manifold.

AGREE TOTALLY WITH ABOVE.

I always snug up the intake crossover to the timing cover FIRST before I tighten any other intake manifold bolts.

If the manifold is matched to the Gaskets and the Heads and the cross-over when pulled tight to the timing cover is shifting the port alignment, I split the manifold behind the water cross-over so that both systems are happy for alignment. Port alignment AND timing.

Tom v

[p4msi1]

I weld the holes up completely and drill holes in the thermostat so water can pass thru. I completely delete the crossover. My car takes longer to warm up but it also runs cooler too.

[1968GTO421]

Originally Posted by p4msi1

I weld the holes up completely and drill holes in the thermostat so water can pass thru. I completely delete the crossover. My car takes longer to warm up but it also runs cooler too.

Sounds like a good idea but I can't quite visualize how that would work. Can you post a couple of pics showing this?
Thanks.

[tom s]

You dont have to weld them up,you can drill and tap for pipe plugs incase you want to go back to a thermo.Tom

[dhcarguy]

Ames sells a better seal. It 's a little thicker. Part #N539AL

[JUDGE3]

Never heard of the weld up mod. pics?

thanks, i'll check ames, and thanks for the mail me one offer, very kind.

I always separate the water crossover. I think I had a thinner seal and also I put gasket sealer in there but did not let it dry.

[wbnapier]

So that hole really isn't necessary for cooling?

[Scott65]

As the name implies, it's a bypass. The water that goes through there doesn't go to the radiator. So no, it's not for cooling.

[HWYSTR455]

The 'bypass' is to bleed air out of the system was what I always thought/was told.

If you're running an aftermarket intake, you can file the raised area around the seal some so the rubber gasket gets 'squeezed' more, which helps prevent leaks.

You might have to enlarge the bolt hole in the intake that go to the heads, sometimes they are off slightly and don't allow the intake to be pulled forward enough for a good seal.


.

[wbnapier]

Found this online, and it makes sense.

The bypass feature allows water to flow around the engine, without passing through the radiator, while the thermostat is shut. Without it, the water will not circulate correctly creating hot spots around the engine which could lead to damage.


I think some holes in the T-stat would be better, then block the bypass. Everything works as intended, but one potential problem eliminated.

I guess I learned something new today!

[jamesq]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

Is the crossover pulled up and making contact with the timing cover? It might not have been pulled all the way forward before the manifold was torqued down. I also coat each side of the donut with Ultra Grey before assembly and then let things set up for 24 hours before putting coolant back in the system. Some of the newer donuts included in the gasket kits are a little thin and you should have at least the thickness of a nickel sticking out of the cavity when the donut is set in place in the manifold.

In another thread on this subject, someone recommends placing a stainless washer on the intake side of the donut.

Is there a downside to this approach?

Thanks, James Q

[lust4speed]

Sealing is accomplished by the donut conforming to and making a seal against the intake, and a loose washer in the recess would allow coolant to flow between intake and washer. A spacer could be set in the recess with plenty of Ultra Grey and it would work okay.

Tom mentioned using a washer as a spacer to obtain proper port alignment, but in this case the spacer is epoxied to the timing cover and effectively becomes part of the cover and the epoxy creates the proper (and permanent) seal between spacer and timing cover.

I currently am finishing up an engine where the Tri-Power manifold was about .100" forward and needed to be spaced rearward for proper port alignment. Found a suitable washer and epoxied it in place and ports now align. Could have been the old timing cover or the new intake manifold or a combination of both that created the problem. Usually I do the port check and things are so close no adjustment is needed.

[chuckies76ta]

A little bit of that right stuff on both sides of rubber o-ring and it will never leak..