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#1
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Rag Joint Flex
Guys, I have a dumb question. I replaced my rag joint with a new steering box.
The china model from rock auto has flimsy rubber. My original OEM had multi-layer harder rubber. Would I feel this flex in the feel of the steering? Thanks |
#2
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I doubt you will feel any difference. As long as the replacement doesn't feel soft.
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72 Luxury Lemans nicely optioned |
#3
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Thats why I posted. The replacement is way softer.
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#4
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Dorman sells a repair kit that is only the rubber disc and is closer to the original. Did one last week on a 75 TA and steering is perfect now. I have read on other forums guys having better luck just replacing the rubber and chucking the rest of the kit.
I used 7/16-20 grade 8 bolts and sleeved them to shoulder the bolts using 3/8" fuel line in the area where the bolt pass through the disc. When the bolts are used without the sleeves the bolts have play and will eventually move on you as it wears. The fuel line sleeves will crush a bit too taking up all the play. |
The Following User Says Thank You to P@blo For This Useful Post: | ||
#5
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The cars I've used the new Rockauto sourced hecho en China models are just fine once you install them and torque them down, I've not felt a difference and it's an improvement over the failed original.
What I can't say is the longevity of them compared to the originals, especially if your steering box\hoses or valve covers are leaking enough to cover it in oil and road grime. I do know that the originals I've pulled out of cars this last decade have all been so bad I was amazed it was holding together. While I know some guys have bought the Dorman rubber disc repair kits, I don't know if that material is any better compared to the entire assembled joint's material - I presume they're all made in the same place... |
The Following User Says Thank You to Ben M. For This Useful Post: | ||
#6
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The Dorman disc kit is closer to the original Ben. I've had them both in my hands and there is a difference. If you google a picture you will easily see what I am talking about one version being solid rubber and the Dorman correct layered disc. This is the reason guys are buying the disc and reusing everything else.
The Dorman is a more robust disc and is structurally more solid material then the plain rubber disc used in the Lares joints. If you buy a Lares I'd take it apart and put a Dorman disc on and shoulder the bolts as I mentioned and you will never have to replace it again. |
#7
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Quote:
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#8
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With the engine off, turn the wheel and see if it flexes. You can go to the end of travel/lock, and turn more slowly, and you will see the flex. If it's acceptable, no action needed.
.
__________________
. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
The Following User Says Thank You to HWYSTR455 For This Useful Post: | ||
#9
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Years ago I used one of the soft all rubber replacements. It lasted about 40,000 miles. I found a mint original laminated cloth/rubber one on a LeMans at a junkyard about 25 years ago and installed it. It's still perfect. You really need a composite stiff cloth/rubber/laminated disc in this application. Plain rubber is not strong or sturdy enough.
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Jeff |
#10
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Quote:
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#11
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Dorman part number 31002 is what you are looking for. You are going to get opinions from guys who have never done it and ones from guys who have. Just saying...
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to P@blo For This Useful Post: | ||
#12
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And DO NOT collapse the intermediate shaft as some reccomend on the forum. Those nylon rivets are single use so I dropped my steering box and had to loosen the column to get enough room instead.
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#13
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You're confusing it with the nylon pins in the collapsible tube of the steering column.
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Steve F. |
#14
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That makes sense GrandAm, I just found it easier to drop the steering box and take the few bolts holding the colum. I will say the shaft I was working on wouldn't collapse so if I had to BFH it down I'd rather not do it.
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#15
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They can be stiff. I've had to use a big screwdriver to carefully pry it away from the steering box splined input shaft before.
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Steve F. |
#16
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I got my beefy new rag joint from Lee Power Steering. I will be taking that wimpy China model off soon. Question, what is that wire across the middle..
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#17
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Ground strap, so the horns will work. Some columns are completely isolated by rubber from the body, and without a ground, the horns won't work. So that provides a ground at the steering box.
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Steve F. |
#18
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** I meant 5/16" fine thread bolts not 7/16" mentioned in my earlier posts **
Looks like your new rag joint has the right disc. I'd still take it apart and see what's going on bolt and shoulder wise. Like I was saying, I bet dollars to doughnuts your disc in that rag joint is the same in the Dornan kit. Last edited by P@blo; 09-06-2020 at 02:34 AM. |
#19
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All of these discs are China town specials too, dont think if you pay $50 for a rag-joint its American-made. The dorman kit and some grade 8 bolts makes a fast and cheap project.
And as mentioned a U-joint would be another more permanent solution. For my situation I wanted to stay factory or close to it as possible. |
#20
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My 77 did not have one. I think I should clip that off?
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