[455abody]

Hello out there I just uncovered the Goat for a sweet 65 degree mid western sunny day drive. I noticed when pumping the brakes I was hearing a clunking from the front end .I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on where I could start looking? I looked underneath and the a-arm bushings looked pretty fresh. Thanks for any help! Brian

[67drake]

Loose caliper bolts

[455abody]

Thanks Drake I will take a look at them.

[Scott Thelander]

upper control arm shims fell out

[PunchT37]

Originally Posted by Scott Thelander

upper control arm shims fell out

X2. Loose a arm cross shaft nuts loose. Shims fall out and cause in and out movement of the arm.

[455abody]

You guys nailed it after I took the tire off and saw multiple shims laying on the frame you guys are good! Do you know if I can hold the nut through the fender well and loosen the cross shaft nuts?? Thanks Pontiac Friends!!

[455abody]

I have a/c so a little bit trickier.

[242177P]

I believe those bolts use serrations or splines.
(I've never had to touch those bolt heads)

[Scott Thelander]

the bolt if original, is knurled like a lug nut stud so it should not spin

I would .... add shims till the space is filled snug.... if you tighten the nut now the alignment will be off

they are a common shim for our gm's ....

maybe loosen nut 1/2 turn then fill with shims and snug back down the 1/2 turn
there is various thickness's

good eye !!!!

snug the other side too ...

oh it should be a self locking nut also no lockwasher,,, they should turn firmly ,,,, if its easy to loosen or tighten
new locknuts are required,,, non of my cars are ac so I cant help you on accesa bility ....

Scott

[Sirrotica]

They are serrated, they have been known to strip the serrations out and spin, I've had to tack weld them occasionally.

To give you a little more room to work, loosen the A/C compressor up and push it towards the center of the car.

[dataway]

I'm not the OP ... but asking, I never replaced the original studs/bolts for the upper A-arms on my 68 A body, they appear to be in good shape ... chassis is assembled .... leave them be? They have no rust or corrosion, I didn't want to replace them because of the fact they are pressed in, serrated bolts.

[Sirrotica]

The only reason they break free is they get rusty, and the nuts freeze on the studs, plus they're locking nuts so they don't back off during operation. The next time someone tries to align it, they spin the serration in the thin soft chassis cold roll metal.

Although the stud is similar to a wheel stud, there is a much thinner (usually softer metal) area trying to hold the serrations than an axle flange. If the studs are intact and free of rust they should last indefinitely. Once the stud is removed getting a new one to hold without tack welding it in place, is probably 50-50.

If your's are in good shape, I'd leave them as is. If you have to adjust or remove the nuts spray them with penetrating oil to lessen the friction of the lock nuts while you're turning them, lessening the chances of rounding out the hole on the chassis. Having owned an alignment machine that's how I've found you'll be able to keep the serrations intact.

[455abody]

Thanks for the wise words.

[dataway]

Thank you.

[455abody]

Thanks again guys it worked like a charm I wish all fixes were this straight for word. Put shims back in got bolts nice and tight took for a long drive no clunking. yahoooo