[mbeeman400]

I know there has been a lot of discussion here on this. Here we go..
I am installing a new clutch and Tremec. SST tech dept says either is fine. Tremec recommends the bearing (ball bearing #7109 which i have). I am not a fan of the bearings. Not as forgiving as a bushing.
Also a Chevy guy, so I have worked with pilot bushings. Never had an issue.
The bearing in the car now is loose was installed by the PO 2 years ago. I haven't got it out, but it looks more like a roller bearing. Thanks in advance

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by mbeeman400

I know there has been a lot of discussion here on this. Here we go..
I am installing a new clutch and Tremec. SST tech dept says either is fine. Tremec recommends the bearing (ball bearing #7109 which i have). I am not a fan of the bearings. Not as forgiving as a bushing.
Also a Chevy guy, so I have worked with pilot bushings. Never had an issue.
The bearing in the car now is loose was installed by the PO 2 years ago. I haven't got it out, but it looks more like a roller bearing. Thanks in advance

You are right about a bushing being more forgiving. However, if everything is in prefect alignment, Crankshaft pilot to flywheel and clutch mounting holes, bellhousing to engine dowels, bellhousing to transmission front bearing pilot, a bearing is smoother and better. If you suspect alignment issues, a bushing is better. If the car was hard to get into reverse with engine running, probably have alignment issues.

[428goat]

Just put in a 5 speed fron SST and used a pilot bearing. Used offset dowels to get alignment to .002 TIR.

[Formulajones]

I don't use the bearings here when I do the swaps. Part of that is just me and my old school way of thinking, and part of it is that I've seen them be a bit fragile. In one instance where the clutch alignment tool had too much play and didn't perfectly align the disc caused me to wiggle the trans more than I wanted, and as the input shaft approached the bearing it must have been slightly off kilter, touched the cage enough to the point that some needles fell out. They don't like to be bullied, lol. I just haven't been that impressed with them and frankly I don't see the need to rollerize the input bushing. I have a bunch of the roller bearings hanging on the wall as they always send one along with the swaps even when I tell them I don't need it, lol.

I've used the bushings on the 5 speed swaps for years since and never a problem. It's more critical to worry about the bellhousing alignment, and as long as that is within tolerance you'll be fine using a bushing if you wish.

[tom s]

I use which ever happens to be in my parts drawer that day!Tom

[BB70]

I rec a bushing that a magnet will not stick to

[Richie Hoffman]

Originally Posted by BB70

I rec a bushing that a magnet will not stick to

X2 I have alumabronze bushings made work perfect

[Tom Vaught]

I am not a fan of the "pilot bearing" after I had one fail and it killed the front input bearing on my Muncie Trans. The bushing would not have killed the front bearing.

Bellhousing alignment is very easy (and fast) if you have a Browell Tool.

"I have alumabronze bushings made work perfect" I sent you a PM Richie.

Tom V.

[Schurkey]

Wrecked the input shaft of a Honda 5-speed due to installation problems damaging the pilot bearing. Had to have the tip of the shaft lathe-cut, and a sleeve put over the damaged area.

I've preferred pilot bushings ever since.

[mbeeman400]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

You are right about a bushing being more forgiving. However, if everything is in prefect alignment, Crankshaft pilot to flywheel and clutch mounting holes, bellhousing to engine dowels, bellhousing to transmission front bearing pilot, a bearing is smoother and better. If you suspect alignment issues, a bushing is better. If the car was hard to get into reverse with engine running, probably have alignment issues.

No problem with reverse, but I had a 53 yr old tired Muncie. Which was not correct for the car. Thanks