[Squidward]

Will be rebuilding the front suspension on the 72 Lemans. Car is iron headed, aluminum intake, aluminum rad. It has no a/c now, but will eventually get aftermarket a/c (Sanden compressor, evap/heat box under dash). By my estimation, it would be about the front weight of a V8 non-a/c car.

I am looking at doing Moog 5372, which is the prescribed spring for V8, no a/c. Anybody have any input on these for ride height or ride quality? I want stock height, and the rear springs are a tiny smidge higher than stock, for a tiny sliver of front rake.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-5372

Also... I plan on replacing the bushings with urethane, purely for the longevity and heat resistance. Any input on that?

Thanks, guys!

[Kurt L71S]

Originally Posted by Squidward

Will be rebuilding the front suspension on the 72 Lemans. Car is iron headed, aluminum intake, aluminum rad. It has no a/c now, but will eventually get aftermarket a/c (Sanden compressor, evap/heat box under dash). By my estimation, it would be about the front weight of a V8 non-a/c car.

I am looking at doing Moog 5372, which is the prescribed spring for V8, no a/c. Anybody have any input on these for ride height or ride quality? I want stock height, and the rear springs are a tiny smidge higher than stock, for a tiny sliver of front rake.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-5372

Also... I plan on replacing the bushings with urethane, purely for the longevity and heat resistance. Any input on that?

Thanks, guys!

Squidward,
Only my take on your situation...
I have a 71 Lemans Sport that I am restoring. I have installed all Moog Rubber on the front end. I also ditched the stock front springs and elected on QA1 Motorsports Coil Over system. I am so happy I did, because the ride this front end rebuild produced is 2nd to none...I did the same on my 68 Camaro...with the exception of using urethane....that was not a good fit for me....too stiff of a ride for my taste.
the 71 has its original 350 and I can give it the ride height I want by simply adjusting the springs and the dampening adjustment assisted with the ride....Not to mention, you can get different spring rates with them as well....Best part of QA1? $468 shipped from Summit Racing....

[Squidward]

Thanks, Kurt. I will look at that. I really want to stay near to stock, tho. But I agree, the adjustability sounds really cool. I have to do a little bit of penny pinching because I have 2 play cars.

[Scarebird]

I run 71 442 (Olds did their homework on susp. and it shows) non-AC springs in my 71, along with Koni shocks and Savitske Stage II UCA's and ball joints. All rubber except the UCA's. Excellent ride.

[Squidward]

I rode in a 72 T/A today as he drove an autocross event at Pontiac Heaven. Wow, that was awesome. I forgot how those cars (2nd gens) handle so beautifully. Makes me want to step up my driving game since I suck so bad at drag racing.

[Squidward]

Gonna go with Moog 5372 springs, KYB shocks, and Energy Suspension urethane bushings. I'll start there, and see what it delivers. Thanks!

[Squidward]

I am half-way into this job. I've decided the .9" sway bar is lame. I am going to go with a 1.25" front sway bar, and add a sway bar to the back.

My car does not have a rear sway bar. I don't think it ever did as far as I can tell. Are there any pitfalls to installation, or is adding one pretty much a bolt-on?

Thanks!

[Mister Pontiac]

Originally Posted by Squidward

I am half-way into this job. I've decided the .9" sway bar is lame. I am going to go with a 1.25" front sway bar, and add a sway bar to the back.

My car does not have a rear sway bar. I don't think it ever did as far as I can tell. Are there any pitfalls to installation, or is adding one pretty much a bolt-on?

Thanks!

Rear bar is a bolt in Squid, but you will need the boxed lower control arms to bolt it in. I recently did the same to my 72 GT. I forget who I bought the lower arms from, (maybe Inline Tube?), but either way, simple bolt in project. If you order the bar with the arms, I believe you will get all of the hardware and possibly the shims (if needed).

Another option I've done before is you can buy the 'inserts' and weld them in place yourself (if you're so equipped). It might save you a few bucks and you can keep the original lower arms on the car if that matters. Then you simply drill the bolt holes in the arms, and order up a bar and the hardware.

Hope that helps.

[Scarebird]

A second option is something like this:



The OEM style setup binds the suspension a bit. I would love to sort out a way to use the Trans Am bar in my Lemans...

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by Mister Pontiac

Rear bar is a bolt in Squid, but you will need the boxed lower control arms to bolt it in. I recently did the same to my 72 GT. I forget who I bought the lower arms from, (maybe Inline Tube?), but either way, simple bolt in project. If you order the bar with the arms, I believe you will get all of the hardware and possibly the shims (if needed).

Another option I've done before is you can buy the 'inserts' and weld them in place yourself (if you're so equipped). It might save you a few bucks and you can keep the original lower arms on the car if that matters. Then you simply drill the bolt holes in the arms, and order up a bar and the hardware.

Hope that helps.

Awesome. I ordered the UMI kit, 1.25" front, 1" rear. I also got the conversion pieces to box the stock arms, a new disc/drum prop valve, and lower control arm bolts.

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

A second option is something like this:

The OEM style setup binds the suspension a bit. I would love to sort out a way to use the Trans Am bar in my Lemans...

That looks pretty cool. Might be a little bit more install work than I want right now. I went with the OEM style to keep it simple. Will see how it goes. Thanks!

I debated on the red hardware or black hardware, and eventually settled on black for a more subtly stated appearance. I have to stick with the "I-am-a-$700-POS" sleeper theme.

[tjs72lemans]

So, your front bar was .900 thick? I have the same and they don't list that size bar for 72 at Ames for new rubber bushings.

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by tjs72lemans

So, your front bar was .900 thick? I have the same and they don't list that size bar for 72 at Ames for new rubber bushings.

I measured casually at .9", but maybe it was more like 15/16".

I was looking around at various sway bar bushing kits, and saw that there was considerable variability in sizing. I thought that .9 was super lame. So I started looking around at heavier sway bars, and eventually kits for front and rear. It seemed that my best bang for the buck was a complete kit that gave me front, rear, and bushings. That's what I went with.

Yeah, not seeing the 15/16" rubber bushings in Ames catalog either. It's one of the reasons that I decided to go 1.25". I started to see that there might be some reasons why the aftermarket doesn't seem to care about skinny bars.

[tjs72lemans]

I wasn't sure if a bigger bar on a convertible would cause handling issues because of overkill.

[Squidward]

Hmm... good question. I've never owned a vert.

Well, I am deep into it. I pressed out my UCA bushings, and found that the metal shell of my Energy Suspension bushings drop right in with no interference fit. The old bushings had been replaced before, and I don't know what caused the loose hole. I am guessing the old bushings were a little on the fat side.

I guess the nice part about poly bushings is that the bushing can be removed/replaced without ruining the entire assembly. I'll be getting out the MIG today to lay a couple beads to hold the bushing shell in the UCA.

This job is beating me up a little. Getting a little old for this under the car stuff.

[Squidward]

Having trouble.

LCA bushings went fine.

UCA bushings? Not so much. Previous owner(s) had replaced UCA bushings a while back. Not in great shape, but better than the lowers that were falling apart. I pressed them out, and realized that there was some creative sizing involved. It looked like some sanding/filing/grinding had been at play years ago. The new poly bushing shells dropped right in the hole, and slopped around. Since new bushings just squish into the shells, I welded the shells. Unfortunately, they didn't go 100% straight, and now I have a little binding. It will probably be ok for now, but new UCA's are in my future. Grr!

I tried to install the springs, but control arm geometry is not the same as a 1st gen. 1st gen's are easy out, easy in. A-bodies require considerable force, or a spring compressor. I opted for spring compressor. After my first attemp[t didn't get the spring indexed properly, I pulled it out and called it a night. While coming down from the apex of frustration, I saw this guy's vid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-A5tjSRfV08

Like a klown, he is.

The info was good, and showed that I was using the compressor wrong. I will be ready for the next attempt.

I am also installing a disc/drum prop valve, and relocating it to under the MC instead of on the frame rail. I will be doing some flaring and adapting, but hopefully it won't be too bad.

BTW, any reccomendations on UCA's? I don't think I need adjustable, and I am leaning toward factory replacements.

[Mister Pontiac]

SW, I'm kind of surprised your new UCA poly's dropped right in. Did you install the kind with or w/o the outer steel shell? I will assume the whole assembly since you said you did some welding to get them to stay. My only suggestion on that would be that next time, tack them in place once you install them in the arm and on the car (over the shaft). That's about the best way I can think of to get them straight and prevent binding. If you 're welding them in on the bench, it would be tough to ensure they're straight for sure.

When installing the springs on the car, I have never used (or needed) a spring compressor, but I always install them with a jack under the LCA. With the weight of the car against the jack, the compression by the jack will get things close enough that you can get the nut started on the ball joint. From there, you're home free by tightening the castle nut.

And if you need new UCA's, and stock ones are what you're after, probably the simplest and easiest way is to just contact Steve Barcak. He should have plenty of sets available, and I would bet they will be fairly inexpensive if he has a set lying around. If he has to pull them from a car, it might cost a little more. But he is close to you being down in Maricopa.

Hope that helps.

[Scarebird]

I may have a set of UCA's I can let go pretty cheap - let me check storage today.

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by Mister Pontiac

SW, I'm kind of surprised your new UCA poly's dropped right in. Did you install the kind with or w/o the outer steel shell? I will assume the whole assembly since you said you did some welding to get them to stay. My only suggestion on that would be that next time, tack them in place once you install them in the arm and on the car (over the shaft). That's about the best way I can think of to get them straight and prevent binding. If you 're welding them in on the bench, it would be tough to ensure they're straight for sure.

When installing the springs on the car, I have never used (or needed) a spring compressor, but I always install them with a jack under the LCA. With the weight of the car against the jack, the compression by the jack will get things close enough that you can get the nut started on the ball joint. From there, you're home free by tightening the castle nut.

And if you need new UCA's, and stock ones are what you're after, probably the simplest and easiest way is to just contact Steve Barcak. He should have plenty of sets available, and I would bet they will be fairly inexpensive if he has a set lying around. If he has to pull them from a car, it might cost a little more. But he is close to you being down in Maricopa.

Hope that helps.

Yeah, shoulda tacked before going the full monty. They looked straight. But the holes were a mess, and the metal was very thinned out and distorted. Oh, well... There are repro new ones with ball joints and bushings for <$100 each. I think I will get a set of those, nice and pretty, no work needed! Scarebird, thx for the offer, I saw the PM. I will respond directly!

Concerning the springs: Yup, never had to use a compressor before. I don't know why things didn't sit right, my guess was I didn't have it indexed correctly, or I didn't get the spring correctly into the frame pocket. Round 2 coming up Sunday or Monday. The compressor should allow me to compress against the LCA pocket, and I can ensure the spring is indexed with the LCA peephole before compressing.

[Squidward]

Springs are in, finally. Coil spring compressor was needed:


New front upper A arms are on the way, should be here Tuesday. I will install once they arrive, but I have to get this thing off jackstands in the driveway!