[AMX guy]

I see there are OK stamps for the engine reproduced but there are multiple options. OK-1, OK -2 and so on.

What would a 1966 tri power Fremont built car have or is there any way to know ?

And yellow or black paint ?

[GT182]

Aren't those the ones with the sticky backing? I've never seen them last for very long once you had the car out on the roads. Heat would breakdown the sticky backing and they'd fall off. Better get a bunch of them to have on hand, unless you plan on trailering it to shows.

[AMX guy]

These are just the stamps you put paint on and stamp the RH head .

[Keith Seymore]

I would guess OK-1 would be first shift, and OK-2 second shift.

Or - perhaps OK-1 was a certain inspector and OK-2 was a different inspector.

In either case I don't think there is any way to know now if yours was a "1" or a "2".

Some plants have a paint stamp indicating "electric test ok" and first shift or second shift but that would be specific to the body; the OK stamp would be specific to the engine and the shift would not necessarily be the same.

K

[AMX guy]

It must be the inspector, because I think you can get up to OK-5 .

So it sounds like there is no set rule by year, model or plant. they say either yellow or black. I wonder if that has any specifics or it was whatever paint they had handy.

[Keith Seymore]

Informal assembly plant processes (not defined by engineering) were usually whatever they had handy.

We used to pick up tire crayons off the floor and re-use them for marking the front of dash, or for checking options off the build manifest.

K

[AMX guy]

It would seem that's the case.

On a related subject, is there any way to know what firewall paint stick markings a car most likely would have left the factory with ? or at least something that theoretically should be correct ?

[60sstuff]

First photo is a 12,000 mile Catalina. This black stamp (OK-1) is on the RH valve cover.

Second photo is my 65 GTO with the black stamp (OK-5) on the RH head.

Chris.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by AMX guy

It would seem that's the case.

On a related subject, is there any way to know what firewall paint stick markings a car most likely would have left the factory with ? or at least something that theoretically should be correct ?

It’s going to vary by assembly plant and model year, and perhaps even by shift and individual operator.

The only marking on the firewall of my Pontiac Michigan built GTO is a big “A”, presumably denoting “Starlight Black”, in white marker.



You might also find a build sequence number on the firewall or front end sheet metal but you might not recognize that's what it is.

By comparison some Chevy pickups have a short novella, showing model number, transmission type, brake system, AC vs no AC etc.

The only way to be certain is to document any marks you find before you start and replicate them when you are done. You could find a car that was built in the same timeframe at the same plant and duplicate what it has, but at that point you are just making stuff up so you may as well do whatever you have in mind.

K

[Keith Seymore]

Here are some of the threads I have accumulated that deal with graffiti, assembly line marking and grease pencil markings (if you are interested):

Factory Markings: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=Linda

Need Help Deciphering Factory Grease Marks: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=Linda

Show Us your Crayon Marks: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=Linda

Factory Grease Pencil Marks: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=Linda

Z Code Fremont Asssembly http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...light=graffiti

Found my Build Sheet: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...light=graffiti

Numbers at top of firewall: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=545345

K