[azmusclecar]

I have read a few posts WHERE to drill the two holes in each control arm but I wanted to ask here since I usually get excellent advice.


DO any of you KNOW EXACTLY where the two holes should be drilled in each control arm?

[Jeff Hamlin]

If your still on oe rear arms you will also need to add boxing Plates or sleeves to prevent distortion one you add the bar.
I would suggest getting a set of Boxed arm as they will be set up with new bushings as well. They run around $200 or you can get the plate kit for around $50.

I'll try to get you the measurements off mine this weekend, so if you decide to plate/sleeve.

[Old Goat 67]

You need to drill two 7/16" holes in each control arm for the sway bar bolts, centered in the arm height. From the center of the rear bushing, measure forward 5". This is the location for the rear hole. Again from the center of the rear bushing, measure forward 11". This is the location of the forward hole. The holes should therefore be 6" apart. If you don't have access to a drill press, then mark both sides of the arm and drill the holes one side at a time. Then you can install the inserts and they should line up perfectly with your drilled holes. If you don't have access to a welder, your local muffler shop can make the welds.

[azmusclecar]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

You need to drill two 7/16" holes in each control arm for the sway bar bolts, centered in the arm height. From the center of the rear bushing, measure forward 5". This is the location for the rear hole. Again from the center of the rear bushing, measure forward 11". This is the location of the forward hole. The holes should therefore be 6" apart. If you don't have access to a drill press, then mark both sides of the arm and drill the holes one side at a time. Then you can install the inserts and they should line up perfectly with your drilled holes. If you don't have access to a welder, your local muffler shop can make the welds.

Those ARE the measurements I read over on the Lemans?GTO Tech section and so thank you most kindly for the verification of them. I was concerned when I could only find one post regarding those figures.

Originally Posted by Jeff Hamlin

If your still on oe rear arms you will also need to add boxing Plates or sleeves to prevent distortion one you add the bar.
I would suggest getting a set of Boxed arm as they will be set up with new bushings as well. They run around $200 or you can get the plate kit for around $50.

I'll try to get you the measurements off mine this weekend, so if you decide to plate/sleeve.

Jeff,
Thank you for the offer of the measurements, now that GTO has fulfilled my need I will get that plate kit you suggested. I got the new syaw bar for less than $80 and I really wasn't planning this mod at this time but the price was right and so I jumped on it.

I didn't even check the control arms to see what they were.


Thank you both for your contributions to my thread. I hope to be of help to you someday but you are far far ahead of me in experience.

[azmusclecar]

Originally Posted by Jeff Hamlin

If your still on oe rear arms you will also need to add boxing Plates or sleeves to prevent distortion one you add the bar.
I would suggest getting a set of Boxed arm as they will be set up with new bushings as well. They run around $200 or you can get the plate kit for around $50.

I'll try to get you the measurements off mine this weekend, so if you decide to plate/sleeve.

Jeff, Has anyone ever told you , you have a purdy rearend? Or is that politically incorrect now? If so I will need the moderator to delete this post. Sorry.

[Old Goat 67]

Nice rear bumper too.

[azmusclecar]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Nice rear bumper too.

That may have crossed the PC line...............we shall see. I know Jeffs
vanity knows no bounds. But he is afterall one of us.

[Jeff Hamlin]

I'm secure in my carhood and have no issues with you complementing my rear.

[vetty]

Adding a rear swaybar to your car that didnt come with one will make a HUGE difference. I have a 69 firebird and the rearend felt loose and swayed around corners. Added an aftermarket swaybar kit made a big difference. Rearend stayed glued to the road and did not sway. I also had a noticeable ride height issue with the left side sat an inch or so higher and when adding the swaybar fixed that.

[azmusclecar]

Originally Posted by vetty

Adding a rear swaybar to your car that didnt come with one will make a HUGE difference. I have a 69 firebird and the rearend felt loose and swayed around corners. Added an aftermarket swaybar kit made a big difference. Rearend stayed glued to the road and did not sway. I also had a noticeable ride height issue with the left side sat an inch or so higher and when adding the swaybar fixed that.

Thanks for the info, as i stated in the beginning post I did not check to see what condition my rear lower control arms were. After the deal on the sway bar became available, I bought it and THEN I checked out my control arms. Well one is bent, or twisted where the so called open area on the bottom is all distorted.

So with that, I found a set of already boxed arms with new bushings and holes for the sway bar for less than $120. I'm sure with a lot of heating and bending and then welding new boxed parts in as Jeff suggested, I would still have old bushings to deal with.

So all in all I am looking forward to the new control arms and the sway bar addition. My car has a bench seat and I noticed how the car leaned more than I liked in turns. I do have a front sway bar but it seems the mass of the car was pulling it over.

So with new coil springs, new shocks, new sway bar and new lower boxed arms I am looking for a fresh handling ride. Maybe someday I'll do the upper control arms but it seems this car is eating my wallet at both ends. The engine work and rear end work trying to get it together for some enjoyable cruising soon.