[Jerry H.]

Old school home painter here--synthol enamel, acrylic enamel & lacquer. Now I've got a car that was painted in 2008 in BC/CC. It got scratched down to the primer about the size of a half dollar under the front lip of the hood. (65 GTO) Not noticeable when the hood is closed. I don't want to touch this up with a brush because it is so big.

I've got some lacquer that I had mixed for another part of the car. If I spray this area with the lacquer and try to blend back over the clear on the sides will it cause lifting or crazing problems? I just want to spray a few light coats and then rub it out. I know it will never be a perfect match, but it should look better than trying to touch it up with a brush, and a lot cheaper than buying all the products in BC/CC just for this one little job. What do you experts say?

[Jerry H.]

Surely someone has an answer. 400 4speed, paintguy, someone? I'm hoping to fix this over the weekend and I don't want to have to fix it twice.

[irgoatmike]

It could lift the edges of your repair. If the 2008 basecoat job used a hardener in the base you'll see very little chance of lifting. If it is a polyester basecoat, easy does it! Light coats will serve you better than wet coats. The more thinner thrown at the repair the longer it sits and works on the previous paint and that's when you could get lifting. Irgoatmike

[400 4spd.]

Just saw this, I agree with Mike's advise. And to help reduce the risk, under reduce the paint. Between the light coats, use partial trigger to keep air going onto the surface. That will cut down on solvent penetration. If you start seeing lifting, give it a half hour or better, then wet sand lifted lines level with 1000. After more dry time, start with the same spray technique until you hide those lines.
What you are doing is building color and sealing the edges, so keep the area small.
If it looks too fuzzy or repair jumps out at you when finished, wet sand it again the next day and spray it wetter and extend out further to get the blend you want.

Let us know how it goes.

[JSPONT]

I would go to your local body shop or paint supplier and have them mix a 1/2 pint of basecoat. Blend it with urethane base then clear. Then you are assured to have no problem.

[Jerry H.]

Originally Posted by 400 4spd.

Just saw this, I agree with Mike's advise. And to help reduce the risk, under reduce the paint. Between the light coats, use partial trigger to keep air going onto the surface. That will cut down on solvent penetration. If you start seeing lifting, give it a half hour or better, then wet sand lifted lines level with 1000. After more dry time, start with the same spray technique until you hide those lines.
What you are doing is building color and sealing the edges, so keep the area small.
If it looks too fuzzy or repair jumps out at you when finished, wet sand it again the next day and spray it wetter and extend out further to get the blend you want.

Let us know how it goes.

Thanks for you and Mike replying. I'll take your advise and work on the repair probably late Sunday or Monday now (according to when all the family leaves). Also I was wrong on the size of the repair; it's smaller than I remembered. It's only a thin strip right on the front edge of the hood and maybe 1/16 to either side in a place or two. I'll attempt to take a picture before and during the process.

BTW, would you use a regular or detail gun? (no HLVP gun available) And what pressure at the gun? 35 lbs or so?

[400 4spd.]

A small detail gun will do fine. Being the front edge it's maybe 2" wide? And no need for 35 lbs., 15 might do it. Spray a test pattern on a white piece of paper to figure out what you need.

[MUSLCAH]

I haven't sprayed lacquer since 1982 ! Don't even know if it's available around here anymore. DuPont 3608 comes to mind as a fast drying thinner,that would work best...as far as lifting that broken edge...like noted above..light coats and use the air from the gun to flash it off quick. Hope the 3608 is the right number....it's been a while! Good luck