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#1
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Broken Exhaust Bolts
I thouht I had a sticking lifter becuse it would go away after a few min. but it's #8 exhaust is leaking. The real problem is all 4 corner bolts are broken off (front/back on both sides) so replacing the gasket is probably not going to work. Running thick flange headers
Has anyone ever tried getting the broken bolts out without pulling heads or motor ? Is anyone running with broken exhaust bolts using 2 gaskets or some other combo ? Looks like I am in for a valve job. No sense in pulling them and not. Probably ought to yank the motor (166K) and just do the whole damn thing. And after years of work I only got to run 1 tank of gas if even that.
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1971 Lemans, Wht/Blk, 400/TH400 2-brl, frt. disk kit, HD -2" spindles, PST, UMI trailing arms/sway bar, Edlebrock, Holley 650, Eaton 3.08, still in progress 1976 Olds 442, 350/TH350, Eldelbrock RPM and 600cfm, headers, flowmaster 50's, PST HD suspension, Catapaults |
#2
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The average person is going to pull the heads/engine to remove 4 broken bolts. I have removed them in car, but it's no picnic. You have to have some good expertise with an angle drill and a cutting torch, and not be trying to work on your back. A lift is pretty much required, which your average hobbyist may not have.
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#3
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Do yourself a favor and pull the heads to fix properly.
Doubling gaskets won't work. Might seal up initially, but it'll leak again before long. If you try to drill the bolts out with the heads in the car, it won't be long before you wished you had just pulled the heads...
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1966 GTO 1969 Lemans Convertible- F.A.S.T. legal family cruiser. 12.59 on G70-14 Polyglas tires. 1.78 60' 1969 Bonneville Safari- cross country family cruiser. . 1979 Trans Am 400, 4-speed, 4 wheel disc. View from the drivers seat racing down Atco Raceway- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhYDMdOEC7A Ride along in the other lane-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIzgpLtF_uw |
#4
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Thanks guys. I figured as much. I guess I was just whining and trying to put off the inevitable. Motor #3.
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1971 Lemans, Wht/Blk, 400/TH400 2-brl, frt. disk kit, HD -2" spindles, PST, UMI trailing arms/sway bar, Edlebrock, Holley 650, Eaton 3.08, still in progress 1976 Olds 442, 350/TH350, Eldelbrock RPM and 600cfm, headers, flowmaster 50's, PST HD suspension, Catapaults |
#5
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Don't use an easy-out. When it breaks, a shop won't touch it unless they put it on an EDM machine to burn it out. Ask me how I know...
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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?" |
#6
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I've never had luck with an 'easy-out'. The problem typically is the bolt breaks because it's rusty, then trying to use an easy out on the rusty bolt becomes the issue. Exhaust bolts are the major problem, and I try to go slow using a hand wrench, lube, wire brush, applying wax to a hot bolt helps quite often.
I'll use a small impact wrench to rattle and vibrate the bolt back and forth to release the rust before applying a lot of torque. George
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
#7
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I have had pretty good luck getting these rusted snapped off bolts out. If snapped off flush, I have used the Eastwood reverse drill bits with pretty good luck. Usually I would hit the bolt with a center punch. And then start drilling with a small bit and then with a larger. I would stop once I get to the size of the threads. Then chase with a tap.
If there was a bit of stud from the bolt sticking out I would weld a nut to it. |
#8
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Quote:
For really brittle bolt heads that just flake and round off, I've had good success heating them to red hot, then simply blowing the heads off. Once the manifold comes off, vice grips on the stud, PB Blaster and working the stud back and forth.
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Peter 1974 Trans Am, 400 4-speed, 3.42 rear. |
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