[Hunter98TA]

what is the preferred method to install new wheel studs? Use a hammer or a lug nut to tighten it or a press?

[Slick Poncho]

Lisle makes a tool that works real nice for pulling pressed wheel studs in. It slides over the stud and has a ball bearing that would sit flat against the hub/rotor and a conical seat for your wheel nut to pull it into place. They work really nice and you can usually find them at a auto parts store for around $20.

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by Slick Poncho

Lisle makes a tool that works real nice for pulling pressed wheel studs in. It slides over the stud and has a ball bearing that would sit flat against the hub/rotor and a conical seat for your wheel nut to pull it into place. They work really nice and you can usually find them at a auto parts store for around $20.

Works nice. Be sure not to overstress the stud pulling it in. Like when it stops going in, stop pulling!. I would be sure to torque the wheels (70 lbs I think?) drive it a while and retorque.

[Hunter98TA]

thanks
I was really hoping to not resorting to buying another tool that I'll only use once. I've had some major financial setbacks over the past few months and buying that is not in the cards right now.

[JLMounce]

When I recently replaced a lug on my Firebird, I hammered it out with a BFH and used a larger nut over the shoulder and throw away lug nut to suck it up. No need to go buy a tool.

[70pontiaction]

I've always knocked out the busted stud with a dead-blow hammer. And I usually do all five when one breaks. Cheap insurance.

Once the old stud is out, put the new stud in place, lightly oiled. Put two Grade 8 washers over the stud, well-oiled. Then put on a standard lugnut BACKWARDS (so the flat side is against the washers). Oil the new stud threads and the flat side of the lugnut. Too much won't hurt here.

Then pull the stud in by tightening the lugnut. As Ted points out, when it starts to feel snug, stop tightening. If it's not all the way in, it will position itself when you torque the lugnuts on.

Good luck!

[unclescratch]

I once took some front aluminum drums to my machine shop to have this done. He used the same simple method of grease, washers and nut, to pull them gently into place.

[Hunter98TA]

Are the knurls that are in the axle, machined in or are they created when the stud is pulled through?

I'll tell you, nothing has been going right with this car. Everything is a problem. I needed to buy longer studs due to the 17" Foose wheels we bought. I got the old studs out using my press with no problem, YAAA!! Although the new studs are supposed to be the same as the old ones based on Summits specs, it looks like I might need to drill out the holes a very little bit to get them in there. The new ones are 7/16-20 and 2 7/8" long. (Moroso# 46150). a 1968 Pontiac 10bolt rear has that size, right?

Of course the front rotors require a .560" knurl end which means I'll have to buy 2 different sets for front and back. I'm glad I don't have any guns in this house with everything that's going on in my life.

[Squidward]

The knurls are created when you pull it in. My Moser axles didn't have any knurl on the hub. My BOP 8.2 factory axles had knurl marks from the studs.

I used a combo of a press (because I have one), and extra lug nuts/washers with lube.

Those same Moroso studs were used on my 8.2 BOP rear. No drilling was required. Actually, a swift whack with a BFH usually knocks them out. I did them one at a time with the axles installed, and then pulled the new ones in with the washers/lug nut. Use good washers and some lube so you don't start stripping anything.

http://www.forums.maxperformanceinc....ighlight=studs

[Half-Inch Stud]

Wheel studs from original axles and rotors go back in great.

New wheel studs can be brutal. I'd conside whacking the back for seating, with a proper buck.

[Formulas]

Nut washers and air hammer, tap torque tap torque until seated..

Also I know your stuff is older and used but when putting new studs in a new axle / hubs lightly deburr / countersink the axle / hub face where the stud rests... high tension hardware = wheel studs have a radius under the head you don't want that radius riding on a sharp edge.

.

[GRX]

Drawing the stud in with a lug nut can work. Can also stress & possible damage the threads. A far better method is a big C-clamp with a tall impact socket over the thread end as a spacer.

Of course, all this depends on whether you have the right diameter stud shoulder. Some are over size to fix a stripped knurl.

[Hunter98TA]

Originally Posted by GRX

Drawing the stud in with a lug nut can work. Can also stress & possible damage the threads. A far better method is a big C-clamp with a tall impact socket over the thread end as a spacer.

Of course, all this depends on whether you have the right diameter stud shoulder. Some are over size to fix a stripped knurl.

I think that is what I have. The stud only goes as far as the shoulder before the knurls.

[GRX]

Might have to break out the dial calipers then. Have had to do that at the local parts store when stud shopping more than once.