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Old 04-05-2016, 09:47 PM
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Default I beam or H beam

Well I am trying to figure the best way to go on my build I would like to spin around 6000 as a 467 4.25 stroke will the I beams handle it or should a guy think about the H beams?

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Old 04-06-2016, 12:38 AM
hurryinhoosier62 hurryinhoosier62 is offline
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In reality, "I" beam rods are slightly stronger than "H" beam rods, but that strength comes with a weight penalty. Go with a good rod and either one will work.

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Old 04-06-2016, 02:28 AM
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Go with a 4340 rod, not the 5140 I-beam.

Like hoosier said, I-beam is structurally stronger, but 4340 is stronger than 5140. The H-beam will be lighter, and plenty strong for your goals.

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Old 04-06-2016, 06:23 AM
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Either Rod will serve you well even with 7000 rpm limit!

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Old 04-06-2016, 07:48 AM
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As mentioned I would avoid the 5140 rods, although the I beam versions are plenty strong for what we do with these engines. I don't use or like the pressed fit type, have seen just enough of them allow the pins to walk out against the cylinders to avoid them.

The "no-name" or off brand "H" beam 4340 rods are excellent, and we've used plenty of them WAY beyond the power level reached by most street engines. There are "seconds" in circulation, often sold really cheap on Ebay which may not be spot on for fit/finish.

I buy mine from trusted vendors so we have more leverage if we run into fit/fitment/machining issues with them. Most have been "spot-on" for size, but we do run into sets on occasion that are extremely tight on the pins and require a few seconds work with a ball hone to get the pins to go thru them.

The Eagle "H" beams we just used for our 455 Super Duty build didn't require anything, perfect on both ends for size, so basically just "plug and play".

The Crower rods for sure are the top of pile and no doubt using them will make a guy sleep better at night, but for the cost the Eagle and other "H" beam 4340 full floaters are more than sufficient for 99 percent of these engines.....IMHO......Cliff

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Old 04-06-2016, 08:37 AM
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Thanks guys good info

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Old 04-06-2016, 09:30 AM
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Looks like Hbeam are the easiest to find the I beam I have looked up all seem to be 5140

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Old 04-06-2016, 11:14 AM
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See if you can find these. Rpm rods;
LG3-6625I, 4340, I beams. Iv`e got the older ones in my engine. They are 740 grams.
A few pics of them on Ross pistons...
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Old 04-06-2016, 11:35 AM
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Crower sells some "Steel Billet" I-beams for $305, but their literature does not specify what type steel used. Probably not 4340 like their Sportsman rods which sell for $800+.

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Last edited by Sprocket; 04-06-2016 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 04-06-2016, 11:51 AM
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I have been talking with Butler they have 4340 in H beam but doesnt look like they have it in the I beam
they have the complete rotating assy kits balanced. Anyone out there used their stuff ?

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Old 04-06-2016, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PunchT37 View Post
See if you can find these. Rpm rods;
LG3-6625I, 4340, I beams. Iv`e got the older ones in my engine. They are 740 grams.
A few pics of them on Ross pistons...
http://www.racingpartsmaximum.com/sae4340ibeam-3.html

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  #12  
Old 04-06-2016, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprocket View Post
Looks like a company near me carries their stuff Competition products in Oshkosh Wi

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Old 04-06-2016, 12:12 PM
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I see very little posted about RPM stuff and have also been curious as to their quality as I see Butler carries it and that would give it some credence I suppose.

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Old 04-06-2016, 12:54 PM
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How much power can be made with Rpm rods LG3-6625I, 4340, I beams ? Will it handle say a 1200hp turbo motor?

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Old 04-06-2016, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by archerytony View Post
I have been talking with Butler they have 4340 in H beam but doesnt look like they have it in the I beam
they have the complete rotating assy kits balanced. Anyone out there used their stuff ?
Butler's kits are pretty much all I use, and have bought several from them. I can say I've torture tested them with no issues. One of the best Pontiac folks in the country. I've had other machine shops check their' work when doing blocks, and all have said they are top notch.

Their' E-heads are a 'standard' for me as well. It's well worth the extra cost for prep than using out of box heads, or having someone other than SD do them. Those two would be the only ones I would source them from.

.

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Old 04-06-2016, 01:35 PM
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I contacted Crower about their $305 steel billet rods and here is their response:

"Thanks for getting in touch with us. E4340 is what our rods are made of."

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Old 04-06-2016, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprocket View Post
I contacted Crower about their $305 steel billet rods and here is their response:

"Thanks for getting in touch with us. E4340 is what our rods are made of."
Sprocket, that price is for an individual rod, not a set of 8. The Crower billet rods are the most expensive ones they sell, next to their titanium rods.

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Old 04-06-2016, 05:07 PM
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Thanks for the clarification! Seemed too cheap to be true. What an idiot.

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RPM intake with Holley Sniper 2
CompCams 236/242 hydraulic roller
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  #19  
Old 04-06-2016, 08:05 PM
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Carrillo rods can run in the $380+ range per rod for a steel rod if your use their special CARR fasteners which are several levels above a ARP 2000 fastener. A set of just the fasteners (16) can be near $400 extra, But you get what you paid for.

Same deal with the off shore rods. Most of them the steel (4340) is ok but the fasteners and the machining for the fasteners is the "make or break it" reason for a failure. Fasteners = rod bolts. or Rod Bolts and Nuts.

Tom V.

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Old 04-06-2016, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62 View Post
Sprocket, that price is for an individual rod, not a set of 8. The Crower billet rods are the most expensive ones they sell, next to their titanium rods.
YIKES!

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