[Elarson]

After seeing how Arnie's fire affected his life and going though a car fire myself, I have some pretty strong thoughts on the topic. I want everyone to be safe this year, so here's my thoughts for you all to ponder, while prepping for the new season. But first a 16 minute video.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rm3DFI9ERlY

The NHRA/IHRA rules specify MINIMUM levels for the safety equipment. Any car can burn if you get the right mix of circumstances. It's not just the province of fast power-adder cars. Obviously personal budgets play a role. But a burn injury will be far more expensive in the long run. Shake Arnie's hand sometime and then imagine how that loss of dexterity could affect your job, family life etc. So here's some thoughts on upgrading beyond the minimums without breaking the bank.

1) If the rules require an SFI -1 jacket, I'd skip right over that and get a -5. They are still pretty reasonably priced. And get some -5 gloves (min) even if you're in a 16 second car.

2) Get rid of any bare skin. If you already have a typical -5 suit and gloves, the obvious weak link is your bare chin and face at your helmet. Head socks are cheap. If your helmet fits snug like it's supposed to, you might have to get the next size up. If your helmet is a bit loose, the head sock will be solving 2 problems. And close your shield so that your eyelids don't get burned like the guy in the video.

3) If you currently have a -5 suit, the affordable way to increase your protection is to get some fire resistant underwear to wear under it. -15 and -20 suits offer great protection but are expensive and have to be recertified every 5 years.....I get that. FYI: when the Boss Bird fire happened, I was wearing a -20 suit. The suit got burned enough that they wouldn't recertify it, but I didn't feel any heat and I didn't get any burns. Here's the video of our fire if you haven't seen it before:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOYYTD_db0A

4) Consider better gloves. The typical -5 glove doesn't offer much protection (again refer to the video). -20 gloves are much better than they used to be as far as flexibility and dexterity to operate switches (not like the "oven mitts" of earlier years). This is the one that I use:
http://simpsonraceproducts.com/glove...-glove-sfi-20/
They're pricey....but cheaper than losing use of your fingers. Stop by our pit sometime and I'll let you try mine on if you want to see how they feel.

5) In general, replace any piece of equipment that's worn thin, has holes, etc.

6) Don't take anything off till you're out of the car. Arnie was in the habit of taking his gloves off before getting out of the car. He did that, not realizing that a fire had started under the hood, and when it erupted, he was still belted in but his hands were unprotected.

If your car is a smoldering pile of junk on Sunday afternoon, the rest of your life needs to be back to normal on Monday morning.

JMHO,
Eric

[guidos]

Thanks great write up...i saw that video, definitely every racer should watch.

[GTOGEORGE]

I'd like to ADD a few things.................engine diapers, any restraints, proper certed roll bar/cage, belts........etc.! Safety should be first.........this includes so called street cars!!!



GTO George

[Tom Vaught]

I would add that this device is well worth it in any form of racing:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HANS_device

Tom V.

[twooldgoats]

Thanks for the graphic reminders, Eric. I've got a -15 suit required by the rules, but I've already added a 5# fire system, a HANS device and Nomex socks. I'll definitely be adding the -20 gloves and a head sock and possibly the boots. I'm already upgrading my parachute to making it easier to pack, so I might as well do the rest as well.


Again, thanks for the reminders.

Jim

[Elarson]

I wore the funny car boots with the Grocery Getter, even thought they weren't required. If there's an engine fire, my feet were going to be closer to it than anything.

Eric

[Skip Fix]

Most of the asphalt Late Models I've seen have a fire system. Seems like a good idea in our cars also. Hit a button an a blast of Halon.

[mgarblik]

I will add one item I HAD NO IDEA ABOUT as the helpless crew chief as the Boss Bird burned to the ground. We were at Union Grove when the fire happened, a track that was completely unprepared for the level of chaos that happened. We have run small tracks with sketchy safety crews and equipment for 20 years. We had 2 very large 20 or 25 lb. each dry chemical fire extinguishers in the tow vehicle. When I got to the car and pulled the pins, neither extinguisher put out any powder. Both units were fully charged on the gauge and neither worked. If they would have, less damage would have happened. Found out later, this is typical of dry chemical extinguishers. If not used, the powder turns to a concrete like substance in the bottle and may not come out. They need to be replaced often to guarantee they will actually work. What a sobering moment when standing there helpless with 2 giant non-working fully charged extinguishers. We now carry 2 large CO2 extinguishers in the truck. An on-board fire system on any car would be a good idea if you can afford it. Certainly a small extinguisher at a minimum should be near at all times. Be safe.

[Elarson]

That was definitely a "why doesn't everybody talk about that?" moment. On that note, take a look at all of the dry chemical fire extinguishers in your shop, kitchen, etc. If you tip it upside down and you can't feel/hear the powder sifting around inside, it isn't going to work when you need it.

Eric

[Rock C]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

I will add one item I HAD NO IDEA ABOUT as the helpless crew chief as the Boss Bird burned to the ground. We were at Union Grove when the fire happened, a track that was completely unprepared for the level of chaos that happened. We have run small tracks with sketchy safety crews and equipment for 20 years. We had 2 very large 20 or 25 lb. each dry chemical fire extinguishers in the tow vehicle. When I got to the car and pulled the pins, neither extinguisher put out any powder. Both units were fully charged on the gauge and neither worked. If they would have, less damage would have happened. Found out later, this is typical of dry chemical extinguishers. If not used, the powder turns to a concrete like substance in the bottle and may not come out. They need to be replaced often to guarantee they will actually work. What a sobering moment when standing there helpless with 2 giant non-working fully charged extinguishers. We now carry 2 large CO2 extinguishers in the truck. An on-board fire system on any car would be a good idea if you can afford it. Certainly a small extinguisher at a minimum should be near at all times. Be safe.

with dry chemical you need to to hit the bottom of of the extinguisher to break up the dry chemical or just throw it on the ground if it didn't work to break up the chemicals

[mgarblik]

Panic situation, your life's savings and thousands of hours of work over 10 years going up in smoke. Had never heard of a "fully charged" extinguisher not working at all. In hind sight, I think I did throw them on the ground when they didn't work. If I would have picked them up and tried them again, they might have worked! Lesson learned, the hard way.

[Skip Fix]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

I will add one item I HAD NO IDEA ABOUT as the helpless crew chief as the Boss Bird burned to the ground. We were at Union Grove when the fire happened, a track that was completely unprepared for the level of chaos that happened. We have run small tracks with sketchy safety crews and equipment for 20 years. We had 2 very large 20 or 25 lb. each dry chemical fire extinguishers in the tow vehicle. When I got to the car and pulled the pins, neither extinguisher put out any powder. Both units were fully charged on the gauge and neither worked. If they would have, less damage would have happened. Found out later, this is typical of dry chemical extinguishers. If not used, the powder turns to a concrete like substance in the bottle and may not come out. They need to be replaced often to guarantee they will actually work. What a sobering moment when standing there helpless with 2 giant non-working fully charged extinguishers. We now carry 2 large CO2 extinguishers in the truck. An on-board fire system on any car would be a good idea if you can afford it. Certainly a small extinguisher at a minimum should be near at all times. Be safe.

The ones at my office get an inspection/swap out yearly.

[NO67GTO]

Great food for thought items. Deff makes you think.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[twooldgoats]

Thanks for this topic and the graphic video, Eric. We decided not to upgrade to an air-powered chute launcher, but I did change to a fire-resistant chute bag, required with the blown alcohol. The NHRA rule book is such a disorganized mess, I didn't realize I needed one before.

I also sprung for high-top shoes, a head sock and the SFI-20 gloves you recommended. It turns out I need a head sock (or skirted helmet) because my old foam neck brace won't fit with my HANS device and it leaves my neck exposed. The head sock will fix that.

We're planning to get out to do some TNT by the end of the month, if all goes well.

Jim

[Elarson]

I'm glad my thread stirred some thoughts. It's all fun and games till somebody gets hurt.

Eric

[Kevspontiacs@aol.com]

When I switched to e85 I had a buddy ask what it looks like when it burns... I didnt have a clue. Hard to see a flame if you don't know what to look for