[gman005]

Can I see some pictures of your wheelie bars? I think I will need to put them on my car just trying to get an idea of how they mount. Thanks John

[LiL Jack]

Nobody needs wheelie bars anymore, but if you want them mine are attached by a bracket on the rear.

[PAUL K]

Let the bumper drag!

[pontibeast]

Jack, all that is way above my power level, but what other options are there to keep the car hooking and not run on the rear tires out to 600 ft mark?

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by LiL Jack

Nobody needs wheelie bars anymore, but if you want them mine are attached by a bracket on the rear.

It gets pretty darn expensive that 1 or 2 times you do need them. They are a nice safety net to have

[Tom Vaught]

Few, if any can do a Arnie Beswick launch, (where he thought the Wheelie Bars were reinstalled back on the car (after some maint), and were not, the car points at the full moon at Butler's event, Arnie figures out the situation, drives the car under EXACTLY the right amount of power to softly drop the car back onto the track surface, with the only issue being the crank sensor needing to be slightly adjusted back onto correct timing. Most times without the bars and a lesser driver you are talking $$$$$$$$$.

Just saying.

Tom V.

[LiL Jack]

The proper suspension set up is key. And a good front shock is a must.


It all depends on your power level. I ran mid 9s with QA1s but you had to tighten up the limiters and shocks on a good track.

A good set of Santuff shocks will be cheaper then wheelie bars installed.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by LiL Jack

The proper suspension set up is key. And a good front shock is a must.

X2 (even with a back half car).

Tom V.

[twooldgoats]

Here are some pix of my set-up. I bolted them to an existing bracket on my four-link on the bottom and welded a couple of brackets to the rear end housing for the top mounts. IIRC, I got the kit from A.R.T. in Florida. Note: the bars are mounted in the up position in the pictures (for loading and trailering). We set them down before making passes. I run an anti-roll bar in addition to the wheelie bars to keep the launch level.

Jim

[gman005]

I have strange double adjustable rears and afco on the front. I don't have any limiters.

[gman005]

Jim thanks for the pictures.

[Probird]

I don't run them but have needed them a time or two. Once the car gets too high it doesn't matter how good you are with the throttle to bring it down easy it's still going to bang off of the oil pan and bend it up. My buddy has a Chevelle that loves to wheelie also. He had a set of solid bars. He hated them. They would unload the rear tires causing them spin and when they would hook back up again it sometimes broke the rear end gear. Then he had another set made that were spring loaded. Those work way better for him. Just thought I would share that if you weren't sure which ones to go with.

[gman005]

I was looking at a set of spring loaded bars.

[twooldgoats]

The kit that I bought was spring-loaded, but I replaced the springs with solid pipe, because I was afraid it would allow the wheelie bars to hit the chassis, given the way it all came together. The wheelie bars have worked fine so far without being spring-loaded. If you watch the u-tube video of my first seven-second pass (in my signature), the wheels appear drop down to the ground right away and stay there for a while on that pass, doing their job well.

Jim

[Money Pit]

Menscer Shocks = no bars

[slowbird]

No fast cars run spring loaded wheelie bars that i know of. If you're hitting the bars hard enough to unload the tires then you need to work on the suspension. The bars should be there for safety mostly. Like LilJack said get the right shocks and the bars should rarely touch. The car will be quicker also if you keep the front down.

[gman005]

I have to get the new motor in the car and see what I need to do.