[RJB68GTO]

Moving forward on my fuel gauge problem, I feel I need to start checking under dash wiring, looks to be a mess left by some idiot who should be dragged behind my GTO. Anyway are there any youtube videos out there that show how to remove dash board panel so I can start plugging in a bunch of wires and bulbs that are just hanging. Getting behind the dash is going to be a lot easier than crawling under and working in tight quarters especially for this not so limber person. Thanks in advance.

[R68GTO]

No youtube videos that I am aware of. You start with removing the dash pad. There are a number of screws that you can see from the underside, don't recall how many for sure but am thinking 3-4 from the radio opening to the gauges. 3 more I think above the gauges. Once those are out, you can pull the pad toward the back seat to remove it. There is a small post on each end that clip into a speednut type clip on each end....you need to overcome that to pull it free. If you have a/c, you will have ductwork to disconnect first, and there is a map light above the radio (vert only?)that will need the wires disconnected before removing the pad. Once the pad is off, you will see 3 screws on top of the gauge pod that hold the cluster to the dash frame. Those need to come out along with disconnecting a multitude of wires, vacuum lines, heater cables, etc, etc. to get everything pulled out.
It's not complicated, it just takes a lot of time to get everything unhooked. If it won't come loose, don't force it....something is likely still connected. Once you get it all out, I highly recommend bench-testing all your dash bulbs before re-installing.

[Greg Reid]

The map light above the radio is present in hard tops also. Just unscrew it, drop it and unplug before lifting the pad.
The instrument panel is the real booger. Not necessarily I this order, remove all the A/C ducting, unbolt the radio and heater/ac control unit, remove the glove box liner, unplug all harnesses, etc. All knobs and switches on the panel will have to be removed and finally you'll be ready to remove the hidden screws holding the actual panel to the dash structure. There are several along the bottom and top (near the glove box opening).
I like to drop the steering column and actually, removing the drivers seat will give you some room too. There is one screw in particular that's easy to miss and if you pull too hard thinking that it 'should come out' you can crack that fragile 47 year old panel. It's to the left of the steering column near the wiper switch.
If it's an A/C equipped car it helps as you can reach through the now empty vents to access some of the stuff like the button you have to push to get the wiper knob out.
One more tip- Unscrew the speed-o-meter cable from the transmission and let it hang loose under the car. It really makes it a lot easier to pull the panel back in order to reach behind the panel to unplug the various things you need to get your hands on, including the speedo cable. If you leave it attached, it fights hard to keep the instrument panel right where it is. I've probably missed a few things but you'll just have to feel your way through it and don't get into a rush. The panel is easy to damage.

Did anyone mention that it's a real pain in the a$$? I've had mine off and back on 3 times and I really don't want to do it again....but I probably will. My tach is no longer working.

[J GLASGO]

68,s are the biggest pita! First thing to do is use low tack tape on all your dash painted areas under the bezel,or you will end up scratching all your paint.

[RJB68GTO]

Thanks everyone sounds like for now it will be easier to try from under the dash. My limited knowledge of such things makes me hesitant so I will gnaw away at it a little at a time. Don't want to get to a spot where I can't drive it because the dash is in a heap. I have come across a few other threads that show pics of some of the same wires in question with good feed back to what they are and where they go. Again thanks.

[Scott Thelander]

pm sent

Scott

[68pongto]

I have done the 68 dashes so many times now I could almost do it blindfolded! Just be patient and find all the screws and nuts. I can get one out in about 30-45 minutes now. So not too difficult, just have to learn all the tricks.

[Peter Serio]

"I like to drop the steering column and actually, removing the drivers seat will give you some room too. There is one screw in particular that's easy to miss and if you pull too hard thinking that it 'should come out' you can crack that fragile 47 year old panel. It's to the left of the steering column near the wiper switch."


I believe that these photos show the 1 (out of 2) metal studs which are fused into the backside of the plastic bezel. The one near the wiper switch I am sure is the one Greg is talking about. (Circle blues)

[Greg Reid]

Yes Pete, that's the one. Both of those really you need to know about.

[Peter Serio]

I would say a 68 Lemans or GTO is probably one of the most labor intensive dash gauge clusters to take apart.

It is the last year of a composite build where the safety laws were beginning to alter how GM made and sold it's cars. 1968 has a painted steel portion welded into the cowl of the car which is non-removable by bolts.

This is a hold-over from many earlier year GM cars plus a plastic dash dash bezel that encloses the gauges and then to top it all off a semi-soft pad which is basically a top cap on the front of the dash. On '68 GTO the pad is the first thing that you take off and the very last part you put back on. In '69-70 the pad is integral with the entire dash and is actually a bit easier to take out (however still pretty labor intensive)

[GTO68FXSTC98]

Did anyone mention that you will cut your hands to ribbons? Unless you have the hands the size of a 12 yr old girl. One of the trickiest parts is getting that wire harness thing back on top of the gage pod. It is not hard to do, its just uncomfortable. I was lucky that my seats and windshield were out of the car when I did mine.

[HWYSTR455]

As an FYI, pull the dash harness with the dash, it waaaay easier to do so. Just unplug the engine and forward light harness, and take the 2 screws out of the fuse panel that hold it to the firewall.

EDIT: Oh, have to unplug the column plug too.

If you pull the duct cables off the heater box you can leave all that on the dash too. Only the radio antenna and blower/AC aux harness needs to be removed.

Dropping the column IMO is a must. Pulling the driver seat helps a lot.

With the dash harness left on the dash, routing, hooking, fixing, etc to the harness is cake.

1/4 ratchet with long extensions, swivels, and wobbles is a good way to get the speed nuts. And as I recall, they don't have to come all the way off, the cowl panel has 'V' slots.

If you look at a pic of a car with the dash out already, you can see all the mount points.

If you pull the dash, replace the column seal if you feel energetic. If you're really energetic, you can replace the heater box seal too. (and pull out all the falling down insulator that makes a cloud with every breeze when the windows are down)

Assembly/service manual has a few helpful pics and sequence info, if you happen to have one handy, but it's only a guide.

.

[MD79TA]

This is about to be my winter project. It my 68 convertible with AC. If anyone does or has done this , it would be a great time to take pictures as you go and maybe we can make it a sticky. If anyone has any thing to add please do as I will start mine after holidays. I will drop column and seat out as a few have suggested . Want to do this once the right way (Ha Ha) that never seems to work . Doug

[Beige1968GTO]

After removing the gauge cluster, how hard is it to remove the "idiot lights" and install a rally cluster? Is the easiest course to replace the dash harness?


Ron LeMay

[Greg Reid]

^^ I think that you only have to move a wire or two on the strip connector....maybe one or two other things like that. Do a search because it has been discussed a few times.