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#1
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So my valve springs are old. Ive never changed springs before and I would like to learn. I think I can do the work, but I have no idea how to figure out what springs I need. Anyone have a link or care to explain how to choose? Also I have HS 1.65 rockers, surely I will need to take that into consideration?
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#2
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What cam in in the engine now? Why are you worried about the springs? Does the engine have an issue at higher RPM? With the cam data people here can recommend springs or a camshaft manufacturer can recommend springs too.
Changing the springs while the engine is still assembled in the car isn't too difficult. You will need to get compressed air into the cylinder VIA the spark plug hole to hold the valves closed while you change springs. The is a hose you can buy for that so you can hook up an air compressor. The compressor will need to be something more than just a tire inflator. You will also need a spring compressor that levers off of the rocker arm stud to compress the current spring so you can remove the keepers and then the springs. The same tool will be needed to install the new springs. Care must be used so you don't push on the end of the valve and drop it into the cylinder. In my opinion with the limited info you have given so far, I'd remove the cylinder heads and get a valve job done. A competent machine shop can check the guides, valves and seats for wear at the same time. They can also set up the springs so that there will be no bind at maximum lift and set up the seat pressure to what ever the valve spring specs call for. Just changing the springs (if the engine has a lot of miles on it) most likely not solve any problems. If you changed the camshaft out, you will need to use the springs that the camshaft manufacturer specifies to be safe.
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#3
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1.65s usually require the pushrods holes opened up,heads should come off for that.Tom
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#4
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Thanks guys. Maybe I should give a little more background. I bought the motor complete quite a few years ago. Pulled it from a rusted out car, dumped the bugs out of the carb, plunked it into my car and fired it right up. Hardest pulling engine I had ever felt! Ended up spinning a rod bearing so I pulled it down. Took it to an engine builder in my town and he went through it. Put a new rod and of course all new bearings and rings etc. Had him do a valve job while it was apart. He said everything looked fine so I reused everything. Same cam, lifters, springs, rockers, pushrods (the holes were already enlarged), distributor, carb. Tried to fire it back up and had a ton of trouble. Found that the distributor springs had gone soft in the 90 days it was apart. Put some new springs in it and fired it up (no need for cam brake in since it was not new). So anyway it has never been quite right. Put in a new distributor, carb (a new Holley and I recently rebuilt a qjet), cam (degreed the cam),found a bent pushrod at that time and replaced it, intake, and gaskets several times.
So even if it doesn't really need it, I would still like to know how to pick springs, and will likely change them along with new pushrods. Also I think im going to pull the heads to do the work. I don't remember seeing anything about springs on the cam card, but it was a few years ago when I did that swap. It is a Crower 60919. |
#5
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That statement is important. I'd guess that the new cam had additional lift and things went metal to metal in the valvetrain. There's a good possibility that while the 60919 doesn't have that large of lift, the addition of the 1.65 rockers caused problems with that cam and your current assembly.
You will need to do some measuring to ascertain the installed height of the springs since that is dependent on valve length, retainers and other variables. You will also need to check the distance from the retainer to the seal. Then you will know if you can safely run the current lift. While things can be done in the car, it will be much easier with the head sitting on the workbench.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. Last edited by lust4speed; 07-09-2014 at 12:04 AM. |
#6
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Yeah it had the 1.65's in it before with a 2802 cam. And it was bent before I put the 919 cam in it. But yes, I need to do some measuring. But that is the part I don't know how or what to do.
By the way I found the 2802 to have a couple wiped lobes. |
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