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#1
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My '67 with the YS 400 has an exhaust leak on the driver side, where the exhaust manifold joins to the head, at the middle two cylinders. Original heads, original exhaust manifolds.
This doesn't seem like something I'm going to repair myself, given that I don't have a real shop and not having an extremely broad set of tools. I have a local garage with a good reputation that will use parts I supply (because it's a classic car) and will charge straight hourly rates (so it's a "trust" scenario, but I generally trust them). I'm assuming, though he didn't say, that they'd probably go under the car, loosen an engine mount, raise the engine, then unbolt the manifold. Not sure whether they'd have a reason to unbolt the manifold from the exhaust, I'd think there's enough slop in there to change a gasket without doing so, but who knows? The owner said that I should get all of the parts they could possibly need, so what would I assume that includes? - The exhaust manifold gaskets (obviously), any recommendations on types or brands there? - Are there any bolts that I should assume to supply? - Any other parts that the experienced folks here would expect a shop to need, given the anticipated scope? Thanks in advance for any input anyone can provide! I've been slowly increasing the road worthiness of the car so that I can drive it with fewer concerns about breaking down. |
#2
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might have more then just a gasket leak, after the manifolds are off check them for straightness, might be wise to have a machine shop mill the surfaces. as for bolts, grade 8 some anti seize and torque to specs, new studs to. good luck jd grim 66 gto
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#3
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Thanks JD - which bolts are you referring to replacing? The bolts that attach the Exhaust Manifold to the head?
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#4
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I used felpro metal gaskets which crush as you tighten the bolts. So far so good. The Mr Gasket style is real wide leaving a lot of the gasket exposed which looks bad.
I had gaskets installed at a garage, and they told me my headers were warped. I had them put in the new gaskets anyways and they blew out before I got home. Total waste of about $250. Thats when I bought the new ram air manifolds and installed them myself with the crush gaskets. |
#5
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And the last time that I brought my car to a mechanic!
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#6
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Yes, replace the bolts holding the manifolds to the heads, I would go the extra step and replace the studs while its all apart, use anti seize on everything. you can also buy clips from out host or Ames that go on the heads of the bolts and lock them in place this keeps them from working loose . jd grim 66 gto
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#7
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I have the cars thar use the factory header style exhaust manifold, like what Rare sells, except mine are OEM. Anyway, all three cars had exhaust leaks at the head. I've tried every exhaust gasket known to man. I've tried doubling them up, combination header gasket and factory shims and even sandwiching header and shims. Nothing worked. Finally I met a cabinet maker and he had a 36 inch belt sander. I took my manifolds off of on car (that I drive mostly), brought them to his shop and laid those babies on the belt sander. I sanded them down until I had a uniform surface, put them back on the car using the FelPro blue exhaust gasket ( the part number escapes me at the moment) and never had a problem since. Needless to say the other 2 cars received the same treatment. You would be surprised how "Out of whack" those suckers are. Every machine shop I talked to wanted between $150.00 and $200.00 bucks, and had problems chucking them because of the odd shape. Like I said a lot of mileage and no issues.
Incidentally I don't use grade 8 bolts for a manifold because if you do snap a bolt they are tough to drill. I do use a nice coat of Anti Seize compound though. JMO
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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
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