[ITSBACK]

Does anyone know what torque value for valley pan bolts is?
Thank you.

[gtofreek]

Not much. I don't know of an actual torque spec, so I just tighten them down until I can see it seat all the way around it's perimeter. If you go too much, the outside edges will start pulling away from the heads. Not so much with stock valley pans, but especially true with the aluminum sheet valley pans.

[Icefan71]

3.5 ft lbs, according to Rocky Rotella's rebuild book.

[ITSBACK]

Is that 35 and just a typo? I can't find my Rocky book, wife probably hid it on me. I glued the gasket on with a little RTV as the first time I tried with just RTV the stock valley pan didn't seat well enough to compress the RTV which was great fun removing. Now I have done all the trimming to fit the intake with clearance from the valley pan and made my exhaust block plates and ready to finalize it. Just wondering if I should use RTV on the bottom side.

[gtofreek]

3.5 lbs. would be about right. 35 would be wayyyy too much. Probably wouldn't even get there as the valley pan would just keep crushing in.

[b-man]

Over tightening the bolts will also drive the ends of the bolts into the cam bearings and crack the webbing in the block.

Go easy, just enough to seal it up.

[ITSBACK]

Glad I asked, that would have sucked.

[ITSBACK]

Loctite?

[gtofreek]

No Loctite. The tension from the valley pan will hold the bolts tight. I have never seen them loosen up from vibration.

[ITSBACK]

Ok great. Thanks guys.

[Icefan71]

Yes its 3 point 5 ft lbs.

[ITSBACK]

Yes, I put it on after a little more grinding and gasket trimming as well as a little bit of bending for a better seal. I had to add a little RTV in a couple spots where I guess I removed a little too much gasket material. I will check around it after it dries with a feeler gauge.

[Old Man Taylor]

I never torque mine. I count the number of turns each bolt goes into the hole without the valley pan until each one hits the cam bearing. Then I install them at least one turn less than that.

[ITSBACK]

I have a small area here where I can slide a feeler gauge under the cork. Can I fill this gap between the head and the valley pan with RTV to close that area up? I understand removal at some point will be a bit of a PITA but not worried about that right now.

[Old Man Taylor]

Yes.

[ITSBACK]

Thank you sir.

[HWYSTR455]

You can also hammer it down some to close the gap. (It's covered by the intake anyway, so you won't see it.)

This is where test fitting the valley pan is helpful. I usually test fit without the gasket in place, get it to fit tight, right up against the head/block, then install the gasket. I usually use high-tack or gaska-cinch on the cork, and RTV only in the corners where the heads meet the block. I start with only a few turns on the bolts to hold everything in place, check it, and if there's still high spots, use a dull/large screw driver and hammer to knock it down. (Lightly, not to split the cork). Don't forget the nylon washers on the bolt heads, or RTV . (Can cause a slight vacuum leak)

And very good point too b-man, not to over tighten, cam bearings. Some choose to run studs for that exact reason, especially with aftermarket pans. (Like the flat sheet ones for example)

Sometimes intake gaskets need to be trimmed too, depending on the pan/gasket combo.

.

[ITSBACK]

I did a lot of fitting and removing and thought I had it but I was a hair off in one spot so I just filled the gap all the way around. I didn't think hammering it down would work but next time around Ill keep that in mind.

[surfsama]

I would recommend you
1) Temporarily install the pan in-place with the gasket but without sealant.
2) Temporarily install the intake and gaskets and check for interference.

It can be hard to see if the intake/gasket is touching the pan/gasket from above so look from front and back. It could save you a lot of frustration later.

I had to grind-off about 1/8 inch from the pan where the intake runners touched. I do have the larger 1970 aluminum intake so that could have been the issue.

I use a solid brass drift by laying it lengthwise on the pan edge and tapping it with a hammer to close-up gaps. It didn't mare the pan.

[ITSBACK]

Thank you, I did all the notching needed and it's funny how the gasket was shaped exactly like my notches, almost like I used the gasket as a template.