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#1
02-22-2014, 10:29 PM
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ARP Flywheel Bolts Stuck
I have a brand new PRW steel flywheel and brand new ARP Bolts. Yesterday I put the flywheel on and tried to put the bolts in and just snug them up. One bolt wanted to go in crooked so today I bought a 1/2"-20 tap and ran it through all the holes to clean them up. I put the flywheel on and put the bolts in. All go in nice and easy. Two go most of the way in and start to fight me to quite a bit. I stop and start to take them all out to see what is going on and the two bolts fight me so hard the motor starts to turn. I have a piece of unistrut that I bolt to the flywheel and its against the ground to stop the motor from turning. I manage to get one bolt out with a breaker bar and have posted a picture of what that looks like. The other bolt will not come out. I am 220 lbs and am putting everything into it and it will not budge. What the hell is going on here. When I had the stock flywheel with stock bolts on they all went in all the way by hand and torqued up and when I removed it they all came right out. Is it time for an impact gun? Im baffled, is it the bolts or the flywheel?
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#2
02-22-2014, 10:37 PM
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Sometimes that black oxide coating seems to make them a bit thicker than they should be. I've seen that a couple times on ARP bolts. I have had to run a die over the bolts before to get them to thread in. It's either the coating or the bolt threads themselves were rolled too big. I would not recommend an impact wrench or you will probably break it off. Then you will really have problems. I would lube it up good and try turning it back and forth until it comes out. You may only be able to turn a tiny bit each way, but it will usually get better as you go.
__________________
Paul Carter Carter Cryogenics www.cartercryo.com 520-409-7236 Koerner Racing Engines You killed it, We build it! 520-294-5758 64 GTO, under re-construction, 412 CID, also under construction. 87 S-10 Pickup, 321,000 miles 99Monte Carlo, 293,000 miles 86 Bronco, 218,000 miles |
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#3
02-22-2014, 10:40 PM
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don't use the arp flywheel bolts your clutch springs will hit them use the mr gasket ones
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#4
02-22-2014, 11:22 PM
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I checked the clearance from the bolts to the springs and there's no issue there. I had put all the bolts into the crank up to the unthreaded shaft without the flywheel on with no problem after running tap through the holes. Look at what the tip of the first bolt looks like in the picture.
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#5
02-22-2014, 11:33 PM
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I wonder if the holes in the flywheel are off slightly. Did you try stock bolts first to see if they thread in?
__________________
Paul Carter Carter Cryogenics www.cartercryo.com 520-409-7236 Koerner Racing Engines You killed it, We build it! 520-294-5758 64 GTO, under re-construction, 412 CID, also under construction. 87 S-10 Pickup, 321,000 miles 99Monte Carlo, 293,000 miles 86 Bronco, 218,000 miles |
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#6
02-22-2014, 11:42 PM
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I'm starting to wonder if the holes in the flywheel were off just enough to screw up the threads on the bolts on the way in, I did have a problem yesterday and a couple bolts wouldn't start tonight with the flywheel on so I ran the tap through those holes again with the flywheel on. Not sure if those were the holes but there was an issue start ring the bolts again. I can only imagine what the crank will look like if I get that last bolt out.
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#7
02-22-2014, 11:48 PM
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You have thread galling.
As Paul stated your best bet is to flood with a penetrate and work it back and forth. Trying to drive it with an impact will likely increase the galling and brake the bolt or destroy the threads. Since you chased the threads chances are that the bolt had an imperfect thread or possibly there were chips in the tapped hole. Galling is more common with stainless fasteners not so much with alloy steel. Dave
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68 GTO 68 LeMans 68 LeMans Convertible 79 Firebird 
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#8
02-23-2014, 12:50 AM
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Well I got the bolt out and took the flywheel off and two of the crank holes have half the threads gone and both those bolts are destroyed. This cannot be good. I took the flywheel and bolted it on another crank with the stock bolts and its not the flywheel.They bolt right up with no issue. This is very bad!! I think Im F'd!!
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#9
02-23-2014, 02:38 AM
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Is it possible you didn't have the flywheel on in the correct orientation? There is a stagger to the bolts and in some places it looks lined up correctly but the holes just barely don't line up which would start a cross thread pretty easily.
I just say this because when I was putting my prw flexplate on I thought it was drilled a little off and then I realized I just didn't have it positioned the right way. Either way that sucks about your crank  are helicoils strong enough for this application?
__________________
 1970 GTO 458 CID .040 over 4 Bolt 428 Block, Forged Eagle 455 Crank, 295 CFM SD KRE D-Ports, SD Old Faithful HR Cam + Comp HR Lifters, PPR Maxx-lite rods, Racetec pistons, PRW 1.65 SS Rockers, 900CFM Holley HP TBI, Performer RPM, Hooker Super Comps, 3" X-Pipe into 2.5" mufflers/tailpipes, 2.75 1st TH400, Continental 13" Converter, 8.5" 3.08 Posi. Everything installed, fired up and tuning has begun! |
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#10
02-23-2014, 08:34 AM
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I see this all time with crap made off shore( to be kind) the tooling ( taps and dies) are used until they near fail, and with none to little QC, this is what you end up with flywheel wise this time!
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
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#11
02-23-2014, 09:02 AM
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The holes were in the correct position, it was the only possibility, every other orientation was off by a lot. It just sucks!!
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#12
02-23-2014, 11:08 AM
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So where did you get the crank? Manufacturer?
Tom Vaught
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
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#13
02-23-2014, 11:46 AM
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It's a stock crank. I bought this motor as an unfired rebuild, just swapped out crank and heads and all associated.
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#14
02-23-2014, 11:51 AM
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STOCK n crank therads are usually excellent: maybe someone overTQ'd or them ARP bolts are evil. Most know my opinion.
Re-tap crank with an american Tap, replace ARP bolts with STOCK GM if you can. ASSURE the bolts are long enough to extend past the crank flange when seated on the Flywheel. You might get 1 shot: See if they reach TQ-set level using a deflection wrench (click wrench yea if you're used to it). FWIW OMG; i actually had a dream about this exact situation a few years ago. |
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#15
02-23-2014, 12:03 PM
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I guess I'm living the dream then.I have attached a picture of one of the holes I just took. I ran a tap through it first.
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#16
02-23-2014, 12:13 PM
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Time for a helicoil or timesert.
__________________
1967 Firechicken, 499", Edl heads, 262/266@0.050" duration and 0.627"/0.643 lift SR cam, 3.90 gear, 28" tire, 3550#. 10.01@134.3 mph with a 1.45 60'. Still WAY under the rollbar rule. |
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#17
02-23-2014, 12:20 PM
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Can you do this on a crank?
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#18
02-23-2014, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
__________________
1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
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#19
02-23-2014, 12:37 PM
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Sorry to see that, I think I would have got some all thread cut in short pieces screwed them in the crank and then slide flywheel onto them if no go keep checkin align of flywheel if not work something wrong, I too would helicoil the damaged holes.
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#20
02-23-2014, 12:45 PM
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Must be certain that 1 helicoil can hold 95 Ft-Lbs. That's the Stock TQ value right?
IF DRILL&tapping for helicoil. Install used Flywheel to be a guide for drill, and Tap. IF you can find the helicoil kit for that thread (Half-Inch Stud Fine?) then it will be fun! I'm not aware of any Thread repair stronger than helicoil. I repaired a CYL Head thread inthe block deck: used 2 Heli-coil inserts to cover the Available bolt thread. Was a Good move: it held TQ ran, and will hold Tq again. |
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