[klunker]

I'm have a offset crank key, its a Mr. Gasket #988G, labeled as a "Chrysler Offset Crank Key" I was told this is the key I need if I want to change the cam when degreeing it.
It obviously is not going to replace the Pontiac crank key as its way too short.
So is it really a "Offset Cam Key", to be installed in the cam not the crank when used on Pontiac or is it not the right one for a pontiac?
A dumb question but I want to be sure of what I am doing.

[Bill Eveland]

Yes, that's the type key you need. Just remember the number will double at the crank. The ones I've used have been pretty accurate. But if you want to advance 4* at the crank you will need the 987 2* key.

[lust4speed]

It does become a cam key, and expounding on what Bill said, a 4° cam key will move the timing 8°. On a recent engine with a used roller timing set, the timing came in at 4° retarded setting the gear marks to 0-0. We then used the 4° timing advance marks on the gear and ended up 4° advanced. I then went with a 2° cam key and ended up 1° retarded with the timing marks set at 0-0, which was almost acceptable. So I went back to the timing gear advance and the key swapped over and ended up at 1° advanced which is where I left it. In this case the 2° key ended up just a hair over 3°. Anyway, don't be afraid to juggle things around with the available options to get the timing close to where you want it.

[gtofreek]

Yes, that key goes in the cam, not the crank. It's the same size key as Chevy uses on their cranks, so for a Chevy it would be a crank key, although, you don't use an offset key in cranks, only in cams.

[RamAirIV28]

Jim Hands book spells it out clearly

[klunker]

Thanks for the replys, don't mess with that stuff all that often. Last time I degree'd a cam was about 15 years ago.
I had a leaky front seal on a "fresh" rebuilt motor (2500 miles about) so I ended up pulling the timing cover. But that's another whole story.
Anyways Engine had a double roller chain on it and its pretty sloppy. About 9/16" of slop already. I noticed the chain was installed at the advanced set-up.
Had another relatively fresh engine with about the approx. same mileage on it so I pulled that cover just to see what it had on it. It had a "regular", like the original type of timing chain on it. But it only had a hair over a 1/4 of slop on it.
So I am thinking of swapping the chains around. I had one of the 4 degree keys that I mentioned in the original post laying around and was contemplating putting on the different timing set with the offset key. But as its a total of 8 degrees I'm not going to.
Now I gotta decide if I should buy a 2 degree key and put it in.
Its a very mild rebuild on a 326HO engine, I don't care if I loose any top end, am more concerned with low end torque. I'm not too keen on the idea of pulling apart the engine to degree it. With as mild a cam as whats in the engine (206, 212 dur at .050, .432 and .444 valve lift) I don't think I need to worry about interference.
Anyway to degree a cam without pulling the intake?

[Bill Eveland]

Without putting a solid lifter in it or filling in the top of a hydraulic lifter so it doesn't move internally there is no accurate way of degreeing the cam by not removing the intake. If it were me, I'd swap the timing sets and install it straight up.

[lust4speed]

Definitely degree the cam. last sloppy chain I degreed before removing it was 6° retarded running straight up. Figured I'd need to help the situation out, but the new Cloyes timing set came within a half degree of perfect installed straight up. Thowing in advance without measuring could cost you performance which also means less gas mileage.

While I personally don't like to over-think what the cam companies have come up with through many hours of R&D, there are possibly some circumstances to add advance if you have went with too much cam - but you are sitting with a very mild cam that could really be a dog with additional advance.

While I prefer to remove the rocker and take the readings off the pushrod, you can take measurements off the tip of the rocker above the pushrod. I'd start by bringing #1 intake to full open position and let it sit there for a few hours to bleed down the lifter. All you will be looking for is the intake centerline, and the results will be accurate with the lifter bled down.