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#1
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Aluminum Radiators worth the effort???
My bracket car, 67 GTO 90 outside runs at 190 degree,s, i have a 2 yr. old 4 core radiator running red keep cool no thermostat with factory 6 blade clutch fan. Thinking about a new aluminum radiator to run a little cooler. WORTH THE INVESTMANT?????Who has best deals going right now???
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#2
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I'd personally be happy with the numbers you've got now. A new radiator won't be too much of an investment, but there's always the chance that you'll still run the same temp.
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1965 Pontiac LeMans. M21, 3.73 in a 12 bolt, Kauffman 461. |
#3
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190 is a good temp. Don't want to run to cool or the fuel does not burn as well. And I went with the milodon high flow water pump. Not shure if they makes it for the 8bolt pump
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#4
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I wouldn't mess with it. A 2-row aluminum radiator will do a tad better, but not really much better than a good 4 core brass-copper.
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__________________________________________ "How I learned to stop worrying and love the OHC Pontiac L6" The Silver Buick- '77 Skylark coupe w/455, SPX, MegaSquirt 3 & TKO-600 (Drag Week 2011, 2012 & 2015!) 1969 Firebird with a turbo'd Pontiac L6 controlled by a MegaSquirt 3 and backed with a microsquirt controlled 4L60e and 4.56 gears! (Drag Week 2018!) |
#5
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Thanks guys, really was thinking about a 3 row, maybe
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#6
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I bought one of the aluminum 2-row rads from PY. It fits and works very well. I was running a used 4-core desert cooler that had been rodded out twice and was still running 205-215. I did all the cooling mods and was still running 200+ After I swapped to the aluminum, temps went to 170-185 with 160 t-stat in 90* weather.
I would try the other cooling tips first, 190 isn't a bad starting point. 160 stat, fan shroud, 7-blade clutch fan, divider plate clearances, etc will get you where you want to be. You're only 10-15 degrees above ideal anyway. You gotta understand that the '65-67 downflow radiator and 8 bolt pump has several design issues. It's not gonna cool like a big 70-newer crossflow radiator and 11 bolt pump. The airflow, water flow and cavitation issues plague us first-gen A body guys. It's the nature of the beast.
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I could explain all this to the girl at the parts store, but she'd probably call the asylum. White '67 LeMans 407/TH350/Ford 3.89... RIP Red '67 LeMans. 407/TH400/Ford 3.25 |
#7
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For a bracket car I would recommend spending your money on an electric water pump like a meziere and electric fan. This way you can wire everything to cool the car off after you shut the car down in the pits. My two cents
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68 Firebird 400, #16, xe274, street dominator, 850 DP, hooker headers, t400, 3500 stall, 3.73, 295/65 bfg drag radicals... best 13.27 @ 102.8, 1.90 60ft |
#8
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I run a 455, 11 bolt napa cast impellor pump properly clearanced, 160* stat, stock clutch fan with the Napa HD clutch, and an aluminum radiator and im consistantly at 175* in the heat. I almost got to 180 the other day driving when it was hotter than blazes out. I personally wouldnt have a stock 4 core harrison on anything I owned unless it was a nut and bolt restoration....in which case I would see if I could have someone braze a Harrison tank to a black annodized aluminum radiator. This whole arguement reminds me of the 3/8 vs 1/2" line arguement. Yes some guys get it to work but it just seems like for the little amount of $ you can have something you know is going to work better.
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-1967 GTO HO Restomod. PKMM 433ci, SilverSport T56 Magnum 6spd, Moser 9", SC&C and a bunch of other pro touring goodies - Build Thread http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...615847&page=23 Last edited by Nicks67GTO; 07-09-2013 at 01:52 AM. |
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