[428GTO70]

I have an Old Faithful Hydraulic Roller cam that I am putting in my motor, and I want to dress the distributor gear so it doesn't eat up the BOP gear I have. I have done some research and see people saying they deburr them with a dremel among other things.

What kind of bit are you using in the dremel, and where on the teeth are you smoothing? I don't want to mess anything up on this. My gear doesn't feel very sharp to the touch exept maybe at the very front and back of the gear where the teeth end.

I can also run the gear through a bead blaster to help smooth it out as I have seen Cliff suggest, should I also run a bronze gear for a few hundred miles? I was trying to not have to do this but will if I have to. Any more info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys,

Bob

[steve25]

With a dremel tool you need to get a couple of there cylindricle orange stones and one of there sanding roll kits.
Go over all the sharp edges on each tooth untill they are baby ass smooth, after this and if you have a oiling port drilled in the rear oil galley, you can even run the stock cast gear.I did for over 25 years on a roller camed street motor putting 10K miles on it!

[Cliff R]

I bead blasted mine with ultra fine glass beads and installed a bronze gear to run for a few hundred miles before swapping to the BOP gear.

5 years later and many hundreds of runs and street miles I still have the bronze gear in place. Every time it's been inspected it was in mint condition, so I'm leaving it in place till it starts showing some wear. I'll snap a pic of it next time the distributor is out......Cliff

[steve25]

Dremel make two roll type stones, you want the one that is one inch long and about 3/16" in diameter, the other common one is 1/2 inch long, but larger in diameter.
If I recall right, the stones are a brownish orange, not orange as I posted before.
Oh, and be sure to ware some type of eye protection!!

[HWYSTR455]

It might sounds barbaric, but the last one I did using a soft wire wheel on a bench grinder. I hit the gears in line, at a slight angle, and only made a few passes by turning the cam (wrapped in a towel, with only the gear exposed). After, I inpsected, and hit a couple high spots with a stone I use for dressing rings.

The main thing is to get all the sharp edges smoothed down to where it's not going to be aggressive on the dizzy gear. It really doesn't take much, but regardless if you do it or not, you should still inspect the dizzy gear within the first 5 - 10k miles.

.

[428GTO70]

Thanks for the info guys, sounds like there is a few different ways to go about this. Steve25, I'm not entirely sure about which dremel stones you mean, here is a link to an assortment on amazon..are the ones you used in this kit? http://www.amazon.com/20pc-Mounted-S...s=dremel+stone

[lust4speed]

If the cam company did their job properly, then the gear doesn't have to be touched. Of course the zinger is trying to identify the cam that needs attention - and we therefore spend the effort on all the gears in hoping to alleviate a problem that might not be there anyway.

What worries me is the amount of damage that can be done with a high speed rotary tool. Get a little carried away on a tooth or two and you have something that works more like a cheese grater. At the very least, set the cam on the table and set the distributor and gear in place, and see where the contact areas actually are. I would bet that you will be surprised where the contact patch ends up. If nothing else, grinding anywhere on the cam gear that doesn't contact the distributor gear is a waste of time and material. Even changing the bevel of the tooth might induce additional harmonics.

Crocus cloth wrapped around a Popsicle stick for polishing would produce a nice smooth and safe finish. Takes longer, but no gouges or other deadly problems.

[steve25]

The second one on the left in the top row.

[steve25]

Also Craytex makes a nice kit of rubberized polishing items that is good to have on hand.