[ITSBACK]

Whats the deal with the motor sitting low on the drivers side? I know there is a guy on here selling shims but is 1/4" enough usually. Were they like this back in 67 or is it the way the stock style motor mounts are made today?
Thank you.

[gtofreek]

Maybe so when the engines torques over it levels out? I really don't know. Never noticed that before.

[Pontirag]

never seen it before, somebody tweaked a frame maybe?

I have seen shims under the tranny mount

[ITSBACK]

Well my frame measures the same from the ground on both sides but when I look at the motor it looks slightly lower on the one side. I need to check again but why would someone sell shims for the frame mounts then?

[blueghoast]

For header clearance and maybe other acceserees or just to raise the motor some.

GT.

[ho428]

A LOT of aftermarket and replacement pans won't clear the frame on FGF's, I think some later factory pans in earlier cars had issues too.
Never notice a tilt before but FGF engines are offset to one side though.

[ITSBACK]

Well Im using Dougs headers and will have to lift motor anyway so maybe I will put shims.

[carcrazy]

Had to use shims on mine for the oil pan to clear the drag link and my Dougs headers to clear the rag joint. Had no problem with the previously installed Hooker Super Comps. Took right at 1/4."

[lust4speed]

The flat of the engine mount should be sitting on the frame mount. I've had engines that did not because of binding, and those took some convincing to get the mount settled in. That flat portion of the engine mount is on the frame side of the rubber, and definitely needs to be touching the frame bracket. Sometimes all that is needed is to have the through-bolts loose and release the cherry picker sharply and let the engine drop 2" or so. and that will give the engine a little momentum to help it settle in.

As far as clearance between pan and frame cross member, as long as there is any daylight I'm happy. Engine lifts up on acceleration, so critical distance is going to increase.

I try and have an 1/8" minimum between pan and the drag link bar since it has to move. I usually use a BFH, but it is risky since the pan is about 3/8" away from the rotating crank. Just a little too much and the crank is going to scrape the inside of the pan. Most of the interference I've seen is the drag link just touching the pan, so a small whack on the link will gently crease the pan. Get carried away and you get to pull the engine, remove the pan and undo some of the customization.

['64 JSTLKMOM]

I put Dougs Headers on my 64' and they barely clear the frame on the passenger side. I bought a set of spacers from a guy on this forum and they seem to work fine.