[Brewster7376]

Hello all does anyone know if i can use a 73 type plastic valance with a early nose if so how its attached. i know the 73 attaches underneath the nose but the early ones dont have it. Is it possible?

[2manyT/A'S]

I have an early build 72 with plastic valance,so I'd say it will work on either early or late...

[LeighP]

As far as I know, the valance itself doesn't attach to the nose panel...so you should be right to go.

[njsteve]

The plastic (actually polyethylene) valance attaches to the underside of the urethane nose with four large washered screws just above the turn signal housings. This area is always broken out of the valance. The remaining mounting points are along the bottom perimeter and mount to the lower radiator support. These holes also broken out since the factory molded the mounting holes in a position that was one inch off of the actual location they should have been. Instead of redrilling new holes, the assembly line guys would just muscle the valance into place. The moment the car hit its first body-flexing bump (the ramp onto the delivery truck) the valance would shatter at the mounting points.

[FrankieT/A]

Could somebody differentiate the plastic from the metal? Like which years, assembly plant Recieved the plastic vs. the metal?

[Brewster7376]

So would I have to run screws up from the bottom above the lights on a early nose. Like the 73 noses?

[Brewster]

Plastic valances where used for 72 and 73 production F bodies.

The 73 nose would have holes already for the plastic valance since thats what it was made to support.

[Brewster7376]

We're the 72 noses not drilled for the top of the valence? And if not were they only held on from the bottom?

[njsteve]

Do you have an original polyethylene valance or a Parts Place black plastic repro one?
Here's a couple shots from the archive of two polyethylene valances. Both upper mounting areas are missing on these valances. Only the pass through for bolt access is still there. (The two holes above each signal lamp mounting area.

The white valance on the car is one that I fixed with plastic welding. The close up is of the actual upper mounting points that I rebuilt with polyethylene welding rod material, prior to redrilling the mounting screw holes.

[Brewster7376]

I have the black plastic repro of the original plastic one and a 71 bumper.

[njsteve]

In that case, you use 4 mounting screws with 1/2" washers (whatever will fit through the passage holes in the signal lamp area) and attach it to the under side of the urethane nose. If you don't have screw holes you will have to drill them. You will also see four rectangular indentations in the urethane material along the center of the bottom of the nose. The four matching raised areas on the valance mate with those indents and take four similar washered screws.

On the bottom of the valance there will be several mounting holes that may or may not match up with the underside of the radiator support. DO NOT USE THESE HOLES IF THEY DONT MATCH THE RADIATOR SUPPORT HOLES. Simply drill some new holes or slot the plastic valance holes so that the 7/16 head washered bolts can go into the slip-on caged nits on the underside of the rad support. These are the same caged nuts that the fenders are held on with.

You can see in these photos just how far the new holes had to be relocated on an original polyethylene valance. The rectangular holes are what the factory used along with a caged nut that slid into the rectangular slot.

[Brewster7376]

Thank you will do