[AZ64GP]

Hello,

I've started the wiring on my '64 Grand Prix, and I'm working on replacing the taillight sockets (on the GPs they are the brake lights and turn signals). I found sockets with a few inches of wire included for leads (aka pig tails) for the reverse/back-up lights which fit the back-up lamp housings (they snap in), but I'm having a heck of a time finding pig tails for the taillights.

I'm using a universal harness for my car (similar to a harness from Painless), and replacing the wiring and fuse block rather than using the various reproduction harnesses from a company like our host, Ames, American Autowire, or etc. I first tried buying pigtails from RockAuto and they look almost identical to the taillight sockets on my car. They looked almost the same, but when I tried to fit them in the taillight sockets, they wouldn't "lock." The taillight sockets I have on my car fit in the hole in the taillight lamp (which I believe the sockets are original since everything is this car appears to be original), and then twist about a 1/4 turn and are then held in place. The pigtails that I purchased from RockAuto (I believe they were the Dorman brand) fit, but wouldn't twist to lock in the taillight. So after installing the pigtails in the taillight lamp, I could pull them right out. I looked online at various other local parts stores (NAPA, O'Reilly's,etc.) and they all seem to have the same style of pigtails by the same manufacturer as I purchased from RockAuto.

I contacted American Autowire and M&H if they sold just the pigtails for the taillights. They both said that the taillight sockets shouldn't lock, but should snap in, like how my back-up light sockets fit. I don't understand that, as the ones that I have with my factory wiring twist and lock. They also said that they did not sell pigtails for the taillights, but only the complete rear lighting harnesses. I think the price from M&H was $135 per side (driver's and passenger's side).

I'm frustrated, because I believe my original taillight sockets are too corroded to reuse, and I really don't want to spend $270 worth of a rear lighting harness, just so I could cut most of it away and use the sockets as pigtails. I really only need about $30 worth of pigtails (6 pigtails total...3 per side). Has anyone else had this problem? What did you use? Do you know where I could purchase the pigtails I'm looking for my '64? My wiring replacement is pretty much stalled until I figure this out.

Thanks in advance for your help!

[Deadhead]

IME ALL aftermarket sockets SUCK! I bought them and will throw them in the trash b/c I bought a good used trunk harness for my Bonneville 2 Dr. Those white ones are just trash. Plus, then you have all those splices all over the place. This is not the way to go. Respect the electrical system in your car.

IMO you need to find a nice OEM trunk harness or have M&H make you one. The other stuff will never fit or work right. This is a very difficult part to get to work right, and you will spend a TON of time screwing around to get sub-par stuff to work, and you will be out on the road with stuff that is malfunctioning. Your time and safety have to be worth something. Been there done that multiple times.

I have one I am messing with right now, and there is no way I will go to any aftermarket part. I will do a meticulous repair on the original part, buy a rear M&H harness or find a good original.

[Heybuck]

Don't know if this suggestion will be of any use but.....

Over here in Australia, the tail light fittings to look for are early model (1960's) Ford Falcon units. They are superb quality, all made of brass. Whether the same fittings were used by Ford in the US I have no idea but it might be worth your effort going to a U-pull it yard with a pair of side cutters to nip some out.

I have a 1965 Parisienne Convertible in which the rotten GM globe holders were just rubbish aluminium. That was probably OK back in '65 but 45 years on they were useless. It now has Ford globe holders and there will never be another problem.

Ian

[cenzo]

I got these from Napa. All metal and just need a slight manipulation of the "fingers" and they snap in. No rotation required. Part number is ECHLS6232. Let me know how you make out? $3.69 each.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...232_0366054025

[8LUG]

The orginal sockets can be rebuilt, the wires going into the socket have a release clip on them, and will come out. the metal collars can be pulled out with visegrips. You can use EVAPORUST to soak the rusted connectors. nothing beats factory. the tail lite harness is exposed in the trunk and with all the splices will look like frankenstien. A used rear harness will work out well with a cleaning and rewrapping the friction tape to look new again." Just sayin "

[8LUG]

$129.00 for 1964 rear tail lite harness, it plugs in on the drivers side rear of the trunk, about a foot away from the last tail lite

[AZ64GP]

Thank you everyone for your replies! I have a followup question 8LUG though:

How do you remove the existing wires from the back of the light bulb sockets for the taillights/turn signals? I have tried to remove the wires and disassemble the sockets with no luck. I want to be careful I don't break one, especially if I am going to reuse it. You say there is a release clip, but where is it in the socket? Do you happen to have a photo or can explain where the clip is inside the socket? I would love to be able to reuse my OEM light sockets as they are not corroded (I don't know how they survived, but I haven't found one rusty one yet), but I will need to be able to remove the wires and replace them.

As for purchasing the replacement harness for the taillights, both M&H and American AutoWire have replacement harnesses, but they're the complete rear end harness and are about $130 per side. I may not have a choice, but I don't want to pay $260 for both passenger and driver's side harnesses only to cut them up so I can splice them together with my replacement harness and new fuse block I'm using to replace all the wiring in the car. If I was going to just replace the rear harness(es) or replace all the wiring with an OEM-style harness from a place like M&H, then the OEM-style replacement harness would be much a much neater and easier way to do it. I don't want to be penny-wise and dollar-foolish, but I also am on a budget and I don't want to spend $260 for a replacement rear harness, which is about 5' long, when I can create my own using the original sockets or purchase replacements and make my own harness for 1/5th of the cost of the OEM-style replacement. If I can't reuse my original light sockets, I may go with the sockets like Cenzo purchased from Napa.

Thanks again everyone and I'll let you know how it turns out!

[Deadhead]

I think you are saying that you don't want to replace the trunk harness b/c you don't want to splice into the main harness in the car? On all the cars I have there is a ribbon that runs to the rear of the car which has a block connector on it. Unhooking the connector, you can then replace the rear section only, so there is no worry if you have a good harness in the rest of your car. Seems weird that there are 2 rear sections in your car. I think only my wagon has a rear one that is divided in 2 parts. Should be a continuous piece along the rear of the trunk to the DS lights?

[AZ64GP]

Originally Posted by Deadhead

I think you are saying that you don't want to replace the trunk harness b/c you don't want to splice into the main harness in the car? On all the cars I have there is a ribbon that runs to the rear of the car which has a block connector on it. Unhooking the connector, you can then replace the rear section only, so there is no worry if you have a good harness in the rest of your car. Seems weird that there are 2 rear sections in your car. I think only my wagon has a rear one that is divided in 2 parts. Should be a continuous piece along the rear of the trunk to the DS lights?

Hello Deadhead and thank you for the reply/followup -

You are correct in that there is a connector that connects the rear harness to the rest of the wiring harness for the car. Since I am completely replacing the wiring harness though in my car with a new universal harness (similar to what Painless Wiring sells), I don't have that connector. I only have wires in my new harness that are labeled for the taillights, reverse lights, trunk light, etc. If I was keeping my factory harness or replacing it with a OEM-like replacement, then purchasing the rear harness and snapping it into the connector would make sense. Since I am using all new wiring though, it seems like a waste to purchase a factory replacement rear harness for my taillights, reverse lights, etc. to then only cut it up and have to splice it with universal new wiring harness I am installing. That's why I am thinking of making my own harness using the original light sockets or replacing the original sockets with new light sockets from a parts store.

You are also correct in that I only see one continuous harness for my rear lights. What made me think there are two different harnesses (passenger and driver) for my car is that in the M&H and American Autowire catalogs, both reference a left and right rear harness for my car. I would assume they would sell it as one harness for all the lights, but unless I'm mistaken, I would need to buy both the left and right (driver's and passenger's) in order to have the complete harness for all the lights in the rear of my car. At $135 per harness ($270 total), that seems like a lot of money for something I'm going to need to cut apart and splice into my universal car harness I'm installing.

[8LUG]

most sockets can be taken apart and bent for a tighter connection. looks better. but thats me.

[Stuart]

Originally Posted by 8LUG

most sockets can be taken apart and bent for a tighter connection. looks better. but thats me.

That will depend on their condition - the original poster is in Phoenix so he may not have this problem, but I've seen a lot of them that were rusted beyond repair.

[Stu Norman]

Originally Posted by cenzo

I got these from Napa. All metal and just need a slight manipulation of the "fingers" and they snap in. No rotation required. Part number is ECHLS6232. Let me know how you make out? $3.69 each.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...232_0366054025

I use the same style, on my 63 GP and 64 Bonneville. I think the fingers provide a better ground, at least since changing the sockets I have not had tail lamp grounding issues.

[Deadhead]

Originally Posted by 8LUG

most sockets can be taken apart and bent for a tighter connection. looks better. but thats me.

What is the trick for keeping the sawtooth tangs in? Do you just epoxy and forget about getting them out again? Mine have always taken enough plastic with them that they will not stay in after removal.

[Alf ista]

Originally Posted by Deadhead

What is the trick for keeping the sawtooth tangs in? Do you just epoxy and forget about getting them out again? Mine have always taken enough plastic with them that they will not stay in after removal.

A couple of mine came apart with this problem. I glued them back in and they have been fine since.