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Old 10-21-2012, 11:25 PM
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Default Help me pick an oil pan -'72 LeMans

Hello,

I'm currently having a 455 freshened for my '72 LeMans. I've had oil control problems in the past and want to make this engine last. I was running the stock non-baffled 350 pan (because the Canton I tried wouldn't clear the crossmember and steering) but I think I need more capacity.

What pan will fit without interference? If the machine shop fixes my bearing clearances this time, do I really need an 80 psi pump? Will a windage tray reduce cavitation or just free up horsepower? I'm running a composite distributor gear and don't want to stress it more than necessary.

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Old 10-22-2012, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailwing View Post
Hello,

I'm currently having a 455 freshened for my '72 LeMans. I've had oil control problems in the past and want to make this engine last. I was running the stock non-baffled 350 pan (because the Canton I tried wouldn't clear the crossmember and steering) but I think I need more capacity.

What pan will fit without interference? If the machine shop fixes my bearing clearances this time, do I really need an 80 psi pump? Will a windage tray reduce cavitation or just free up horsepower? I'm running a composite distributor gear and don't want to stress it more than necessary.
http://www.pacificperformanceracing....omponents.html

Go see Ace. He's just up the road from you.

Karl


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Old 10-22-2012, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa. View Post
http://www.pacificperformanceracing....omponents.html

Go see Ace. He's just up the road from you.

Karl

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Old 10-22-2012, 07:18 AM
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Use a stock pan , full tray & a crank scraper .

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Old 10-22-2012, 01:17 PM
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There is nothing wrong with a stock baffled pan unless you plan on doing road racing. Even for drag racing the stock baffled pans are fine up to a certain performance level. For a hot street rod the stock baffled pan is just fine. You didn't mention what your performance level was and how you will use the car but I can assume you are running a roller cam based on the composite distributor gear. The 80lb pump robs hp and in most cases is overkill. As long as you have 10 psi of pressure per 1,000 RPM your covered. As far as windage trays I have had one that was cracked in a few places and started coming apart on a drag race motor. I think the factory windage tray is OK for the street if it is is good condition but is still somewhat of a risk due to the age of them. I don't think a scraper is required unless your planning on racing it and want to get the last hp out of the combo.

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Last edited by Tim Corcoran; 10-22-2012 at 01:22 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:26 PM
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A 455 can suck a stock pan dry at RPM, especially without a windage tray. Run a tray for sure, and suggest a new replacement over an old OE one.

The Canton wouldn't clear the crossmember? Hm, well, never used one, but thought it would fit. I use the Milodon Road Race in my '71, and though it's close to the crossmember, it clears.

The 60 psi pumps usually only get like 55 psi max before the check ball lifts off the seat. Search here for the modification to shim the spring on a 60 psi pump, which is the best solution. You will get like a true 60 psi at cruise when shimmed, and a more desirable idle psi.

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Old 10-22-2012, 05:35 PM
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I was running an 80psi pump and losing oil pressure at RPM. A bigger pan should help... but won't it only delay starvation for about a second?

I'm going to have the oil return holes opened/smoothed in the Edelbrock heads a little...

- Old faithfull camshaft
- 87cc E-Heads
- Dougs headers
- ???

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Old 10-22-2012, 05:36 PM
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Oh... and a rev limiter. Gots to get one of those.

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Old 10-22-2012, 07:25 PM
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The first series E-heads from what I understand do have poor drainback, would contribute to sucking dry. Enlarging them is a good idea. Drainback and windage are the main culprits to sucking the pan dry. I've held the driver at like 7200+ for like 30-45 seconds, easy, if not more, never sucked dry. No rev limiter either. Don't need one! They just frustrate the crap out of me!

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  #10  
Old 10-22-2012, 09:09 PM
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Canton road race pan with Butler pro series 80# pump on my similar combo. Pan fit my 70 with no issues and I never loose pressure. Long right hand corners? Hammer the hell out of it , oil pressure does not move!

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Old 10-22-2012, 10:01 PM
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Is it possible that 350 mounts are shorter than 455 mounts?

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Old 10-22-2012, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailwing View Post
Is it possible that 350 mounts are shorter than 455 mounts?
No.

Same height, the same mount is sold for the '64 -'72 Pontiac A-body cars and fits all V8 engine sizes.

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Old 10-22-2012, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b-man View Post
No.

Same height, the same mount is sold for the '64 -'72 Pontiac A-body cars and fits all V8 engine sizes.
I ordered both 350 and 455 motor mounts. The 455 engine mounts don't fit my chassis and are generally larger. Could be the wrong parts I guess.

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Old 10-23-2012, 09:59 AM
chrisp chrisp is offline
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Aftermarket engine mounts are not as tall as GM , & if your trans. mount / cross member is raised up for some unknown reason that would be a factor as the clearance problem as well .

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Old 10-23-2012, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailwing View Post
I ordered both 350 and 455 motor mounts. The 455 engine mounts don't fit my chassis and are generally larger. Could be the wrong parts I guess.
The '70-'72 455 A-body cars did have a different wider mount, but the standard mounts work fine for 455 installations.

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Old 10-30-2012, 11:17 PM
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Parts are here. I'm going to bet the oil pan doesn't clear. I don't think the motor can go up much... Would some heat and gentle pursasion hurt the pan?

Also, I can't find a washer that fits the oil pump spring. A #7 metric appears the closest but I can't find a hardened one. Any suggestions?

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Old 11-01-2012, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailwing View Post
Parts are here. I'm going to bet the oil pan doesn't clear. I don't think the motor can go up much... Would some heat and gentle pursasion hurt the pan?

Also, I can't find a washer that fits the oil pump spring. A #7 metric appears the closest but I can't find a hardened one. Any suggestions?
I would try installing some 3/16" or 1/4" spacer plates underneath the engine mount brackets (between the crossmember and the bracket) rather than hammer on the pan.

Personally I don't think there is any need to increase the oil pressure using a washer under the spring. Perhaps one of the engine builders who recommend this mod can send one to you for a small postage charge.

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Old 11-02-2012, 05:41 AM
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The Melling pumps come supplied with the 60lb spring. They used to supply a 45lb spring in the box, but haven't seen that part with one in several years.

There is no need for more than 60lb oil pressure on one of these engines. We've used the stock Melling pump on engines up over 750hp with zero issues. Get the bearing clearance right and it will be fine.....Cliff

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Old 11-02-2012, 09:08 AM
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I mocked it up last night. With the oil pan sitting on the crossmember and steering link, it lacks this much from sitting in the mounts. Look normal?





Why can't people make stuff that actually fits? Was this car jumped by the original North Georgia owner, possibly running shine from Rosco?

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Old 11-02-2012, 08:31 PM
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I have the canton RR pan in my 72 lemans (new Mity Mounts), and don't have the clearance issues that you do. I know the bolts are a PITA to get to, but maybe add an 1/8" shim under the motor mount brackets on the crossmember? It appears that you are really close to getting this to fit properly, and if you can avoid beating up a nice pan....

BTW, I am running an RPM intake, q-jet, and non-ram air dual snorkle air cleaner. I have about 1/8" clearance between the air cleaner and hood. I don't know your setup, but I would avoid raising too much.

Mike

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