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#1
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New issue with alt belt
Ok so here is a brief rundown of what has happened since I bought my 67 GTO 5 years ago.
It had the A.I.R. system still on when I bought it, promptly removed entire system and swapped out correct size belt for application. Then about 3 years ago I swapped out the original generator for a Powermaster internal regulated one wire alternator. From then on I had no belt issues until recently. Recently I have had a problem with my alternator belt giving up some noise, so I used some dressing and checked tightness. That did not help with the squeal under load so I replaced the belt. Didn't drive it much after that and have since swapped out my intake for a performer. After installation I almost instantly heated up and snapped the alternator belt. Checked alignment and figured maybe I got an old stock belt. Put the new one on and during my test drive I not only had the alternator belt snap again but the PS belt rolled on me. Trying to think through this logically I can only think that maybe my water pump pulley is giving me some vibration or wobble and causing this but I don't know for sure. I also thought that maybe my alternator is not running properly ( my new autometer gauge is pegged all the time its running) and causing the belt to heat up and burn out and break. And that the force of it breaking caused my PS belt to roll. This is my toy car and is driven very rarely and not raced or abused so I do not know what could be causing this issue. Help!
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1967 GTO Hardtop - Burgundy Ext California Car - Restoration and Modification are always in progress! |
#2
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I would check alternator electrical load first and correct that. I think the PS belt rolled cause it ate the alternator belt. thos AIR systems are worth gold. I have only seen one Calif car with the system intact. and it was in a pontiac magazine article.
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#3
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I still have the system components boxed up with everything. (How much gold are you talking about?)
How do I check the load and correct it? Thanks
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1967 GTO Hardtop - Burgundy Ext California Car - Restoration and Modification are always in progress! |
#4
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I live in AZ so no gold here. I dont know what the deal is with the laws in Calif. but I bought several really nice cars there cheap because they could not comply/pass emissions.
including a 77 loaded Trans Am with a 403 automatic with an aftermarket carb for 800 bucks a datsun 280Z with a small block chevy 350 goodwrench crate motor in it for 1500 bucks a 67 GTO at a Paseo Robbles car show for 2600 bucks because it did not have the AIR system This car was mint I bought 11 cars in Cali and drove them home to AZ and scored big bucks because of non compliance. I bought 5 cars from one guy, a used car salesman in salinas who felt I was a godsend to his problem. he turned me on to other dealers who could not move thier cars cause of emmissions/equipment regs. On a teachers salary....I cleared over 8 grand between Christmas and june. this was back in '96-'97 I dont know all there is to know about testing the system, but correcting it will probably require replacing the alternator. You might just switch it out temporarily to see if the problem goes away. Its a sloppy way to troubleshoot the system but its quick. |
#5
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A belt that is too narrow for the pulley will ride in the bottom of the pulley groove and slip, getting hot real fast.
The belt is supposed to ride on the sides of the pulley. If the belt squeals, it's probably slipping. The belt "dressing" is no more than a solvent to clean off grease, etc. A alternator with converted to higher output will also put more of a load on the drive belt, typically higher output OEM alts have a dual belt, or on later model cars they use a serpentine belt. I'd say get a wider belt and try that. George
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
#6
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he also stated thet the guage is peg'ed. So Im assuming its overcharging
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#7
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Yeah, either overcharging or the battery is defective and the alternator is working overtime trying to get the battery up to proper voltage. Cheapest and easiest thing to do is to temporarily swap in another battery and see if the problem goes away.
Also if you are breaking belts, it's probably time to change brands. You might still fry a Gates (aka Napa) belt, but doubt you will break one.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
#8
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Ok so I changed brands and went away from the cheap brands. They were running a little narrow for my application. Switched to the Napa belts and they are a little wider than the cheapies.
However I am still having an issue. My gauge is no longer peg'ed, it reads about 16v now. But the belt is still getting fried. And by that I mean it is melting and throwing debris in the engine compartment. Hasn't broken yet but squeals like a banshee even under light load. Will try swapping in a diff battery to see if that helps but I don't think that would be causing the belt to fry. But at this point I will try just about anything. Thanks guys.
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1967 GTO Hardtop - Burgundy Ext California Car - Restoration and Modification are always in progress! |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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Just wanted to give an update on what I have done.
After I started to look into this problem I found that my alt was frying itself. I think I had a loose connection and that was causing it to overwork itself and get exceedingly hot and melt my belt. New alt has stopped melting and breaking belts and now reads properly on my volt meter on gauges. Thanks guys for all the help
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1967 GTO Hardtop - Burgundy Ext California Car - Restoration and Modification are always in progress! |
#11
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did you ever reinstall the AIR system? in CA its THE LAW!
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#12
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No it's still in the box! But I'm in Florida so no law here!!
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1967 GTO Hardtop - Burgundy Ext California Car - Restoration and Modification are always in progress! |
#13
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Even when I did have to get my '67 smog checked years ago, I never put back on the A.I.R. pump. There is no way for the state to prove that the car originally was equipped with the pump. Since cars shipped to the other 49 states did not have pumps, all you had to do was remove the A.I.R. sticker from the radiator support and they had to test the car as a Federal Compliant vehicle.
We're sitting better than many other states. Cars older than 1976 are smog check exempt in California - absolutely no inspections. Even my drag car is licensed for the street so I can run the street stock drags, and it would send the smog check machines into cardiac arrest.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
#14
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Unless you get pulled over by an officer who decides to be hardnosed about it. The law technically says it has to remain and they can cite you if it isn't ;-)
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#15
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Except there is no way to identify whether the car was originally equipped with A.I.R. or not, and only cars delivered in California were so equipped. Even the state has no way of knowing, and most of the cops are younger than our cars. Around here, law enforcement guys are all cool, and most own radical cars (I can think of four right now in our GTO club that own cars that wouldn't pass any type of smog test). All the green police are in your area.
Not to mention that if the heads are later model to lower compression, or aluminum heads have been installed, then there is no place to run the A.I.R. plumbing to.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
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