[antique69lemans]

I just discovered evapo-rust. WOW. I wish I had known about before. I am rebuilding a rally shifter. I dissassembled it and soaked everything. after a day soak they came out looking new. It doesn't harm small parts like springs or attack plastics or coatings. Degrease all parts and wash with soap before dipping and the rust Only dissappears. I should have take before and after pics.. Waiting on shifter rod rechrome to assemble, but it is going to be like new.

[webfoot]

Where did you find this stuff? Is it a soak only stuff or can you brush it on?

[steve v]

Sounds like the same product Eastwood sells called rust remover. I used it for clips & tons of small parts. It takes the rust off & wont hurt oem platings like zinc etc.

[marxjunk]

Originally Posted by webfoot

Where did you find this stuff? Is it a soak only stuff or can you brush it on?

autozone and oreileys

[webfoot]

I'll give it a try, thanks.

[P Glade]

It's a soak-only product...liquid like water (not a gel, etc you would brush on).

Parts should be completely submerged in it. They also suggest draping a paper towel or rag over any portion that may not be submerged to keep the surface wet.

[antique69lemans]

You can also find it at Harbor freight tools, but Oreilly's is cheapest here. If you are interested in freshening up your shifter knob , I posted a pic in the judge forum. There is already a thread of some cheap refinishing with great results. Good winter projects for tinkering around inside while making nice detailing for summers drive.

[Cammer-6]

baking soda and DC voltage will do the same

[69lm69gp]

There is a gel product called Rust Bomb made/marketed by the same company that can be used on parts too big to immerse. The are a couple of companies the make similar rust removers such as one marketed as "The Safest Rust Remover" that was used to remove rust from the 57 Plymouth Belvedere from the Tulsa time capsule. But I cheapest product of this type I found is D-Rust-IT sold as a concentrate it is $60 for one gallon that makes 5 to 10 gallons depending on how strong you mix it and it's still expensive for how long it lasts before it stops working.

As Cammer-6 stated cryptically stated, electrolysis works well but it releases Hydrogen so I only do it in the summer when I can do it outside. I figure the water will freeze is the winter (never tried it) so I use the D-Rust-It in the winter so I can bring the parts inside.

[marxjunk]

google CLR..youll freak

[antique69lemans]

Originally Posted by marxjunk

google CLR..youll freak

They have great commercials. lol but i couldn't even get the rust stains out of my bathtub using it.

[codyyy]

How long do the parts need to soak? Does the metal end up being bare after or is there some sort of residue or anything? I was thinking of cold galvanizing my body mount sleeves but they have a small amount of surface rust. The can says the parts need to be completely bare clean metal.

[antique69lemans]

Originally Posted by codyyy

How long do the parts need to soak? Does the metal end up being bare after or is there some sort of residue or anything? I was thinking of cold galvanizing my body mount sleeves but they have a small amount of surface rust. The can says the parts need to be completely bare clean metal.

It depends on how bad the rust is. It really is meant for light rust. The more rust you can remove before dipping, the longer the solution lasts. My shifter was left for about 24 hours to remove All traces of rust. It came out shiny silver when done, cast iron may be blackish grey. Small parts I put in a glass jar and set in hot water. Heat accelerates the process and they took a few hours. Leave the parts in the solution until you are ready to paint. Remove them, wash with soap and dry immediatly, then paint. If you let them dry without washing there will be a tacky residue left. I don't have any after pics, but here is what I started with. It looked new when done.