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#1
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BIG wire crimp !
whats the right way to crimp these at home ? these are for batt. cables.
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1981 Trans Am project -YJ 400 stroked to 488 CID-74cc Eheads-10.95:1-Northwind Intake-Holley Terminator-TH400-Moser rear-Dougs Headers.... |
#2
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sorry . pic
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1981 Trans Am project -YJ 400 stroked to 488 CID-74cc Eheads-10.95:1-Northwind Intake-Holley Terminator-TH400-Moser rear-Dougs Headers.... |
#3
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The last time I used those style terminals I soldered them directly to the cable by cleaning everything, filled the end of the terminal full of flux, inserted the cable, heated it up and melted solder directly into the terminal pocket. Crimping and soldering would probably be better but at the time I didn't have access to a big enough crimper.
Stewart
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1976 TA, nose converted to 1970 style, 406, ported #13 Heads, '70 iron intake without crossovers, Q-Jet - Cliff style, RARE OS manifolds, Pypes duals w/crossflow, UD 230/238 custom HR 4/7 swap cam with solid roller lifters , Hydro-Boost 4-wheel discs, 4 Speed, 3.23 posi. “Nothing in life is so exhilarating as to be shot at without result.” - Winston Churchill |
#4
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With a BFH
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If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is |
#5
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Napa makes solder pellets that you can insert in those cable lugs, to solder the cables into the lugs, no crimping needed.
Cut back the insulation to the length you want in the terminal. It may take more than one pellet, some lugs have a void in the end, it fills up w/ solder, Solder off a roll would work also...I usually use heat shrink over the connection...Easy... Wear gloves when you heat up the lug w/ torch.
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1977 Black Trans Am 180 HP Auto, essentially base model T/A. I'm the original owner, purchased May 7, 1977. Shut it off Shut it off Buddy, I just shut your Prius down... |
#6
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+1 on the BFH deal, using a custom ground punch with a wide rounded end on it. Then I solder them to help improve continuity between the parts......Cliff
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If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you can read this in English, thank a Veteran! https://cliffshighperformance.com/ 73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile), |
#7
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#8
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The photo above is kind-of how half my cables were done.
The other half was done by a draw-bar crimp at the welding cable shop. I tried soldering some of the crimps: seems unnecessary (from a fella that solders nearly all my car wiring). |
#9
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I use a tool i bought from home deoot it is for swaging (sp?) or crimping sleaves on cables it looks like bolt cutter has several sizes on it it will crimp those fittings from 8guage on up to 1 guage. nice solid crimp and easy to solder. It works a lot better(for me ) than the hammer crimping tool
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#10
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Thats how I did it. First I tried some huge channel locks I had, but still ended up useing a hammer to be sure. Didnt look very pretty though.
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#11
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thanks guys. maybe time to invest in a tool !
__________________
1981 Trans Am project -YJ 400 stroked to 488 CID-74cc Eheads-10.95:1-Northwind Intake-Holley Terminator-TH400-Moser rear-Dougs Headers.... |
#12
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I use the hammer crimp tool with a BFH.
FYI: some of these crimp tools may need minor "adjustment" (ie:minor grinding) so the crimp mandrel/punch fits into the V portion better. I also solder my connections as well (be sure to use some liquid flux as well if not using those solder pellets),then heatshrink the connection. Never any problems with durabillity. And I also check mine for resistance (never any to speak of). Agree the big "bolt cutter" style crimpers are nice,but more $$$ for sure. And yeah,there are always local places that can do the crimp/solder stuff for you if your not into the whole DIY thing. HTH Bret P. |
#13
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Quote:
I used a hydraulic cable crimper at my former employer; really wonderful and tremendously expensive. Quote:
Quote:
First Guess: You'd learn more from a voltage drop test where the cable is carrying ~200 amps during the test instead of the low current of an ohmmeter. |
#14
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Quote:
Quote:
And that was like 20 years ago. Anyhow:FYI Those solder pellets contain rosin,so one way or the other,if you solder the connection,your gonna to be using some sorta anti-oxidation agent in there to assure that the metal is clean & so the solder will flow nicely and bond to the metal properly,be it via the Rosin in those pellets,or from a mild liquid flux (often both are recommended). Even Rosin can be mildly acidic once it's heated to soldering temps. Anyhow,try doing it without such,and the odds are your gonna have a big 'ol mess on your hands. Quote:
So is the third degree over now??? Bret P. |
#15
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I soldered/ shrink tubed my connections after I had a welding shop crimp the ends on the cable I bought from them. I figured out the lengths, bought the 00 welding cable, and the correct ends. They installed the ends for free.
At least in the Detroit area, good welding shops supply a lot of guys welding trucks their cables as they see constant wear. Tom Vaught
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#16
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Go to home depot get one of the cable crimpers you will not regret it makes very nice clean predictable good looking crimps. bought mine 5 years or so ago found a lot of uses for it over the years
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#17
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I drilled a hole in one side of mine and then used the BFH approach. After that I heated the whole deal with a torch and worked solder into the hole.
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
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