[mikes2nd]

So do you flange the car?

Or do you flange the skin?

I want to use the glue up top and not butt weld the whole thing...

[paint guy]

Originally Posted by mikes2nd

So do you flange the car?

Or do you flange the skin?

I want to use the glue up top and not butt weld the whole thing...

Do a search about glueing the quarters, you might change your mind. Keep in mind that 3m(one glue mfgr) does not recommend glueing any exposed areas due to glue lines bleeding thru. Lord Fusor(another mfgr) states to clean off any glue that seeps out of the seam and maybe the glue won't bleed thru. My son has a 72 Chevelle that we glued the panels on to (flanged the panel and slipped it up underneath the car) and after about 2 years, the glue line started to show. When we repaint the car (soon) we will be welding the panels on. good luck in whatever you decide.

[mikes2nd]

yeah i am fighting with my father on how to do it. im a novice welder but I know if i go slow and be careful and practice I should be okay I hope.

the back end of this gto has more curves than you shake a stick at...

[Greg Reid]

It's quite a bit easier to get a good weld if you flange it rather than butt it too.
I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference which one you flange...Just look at things like whether the flange will be in a position to catch water and dirt...In other words, the overhang would probably be better hanging down...if that makes sense to you....and other things like, how easy it will be to get the part in position with the flange behind the exposed part. You'll figure it out when you start thinking about how you going to do it.

[J.D.]

i wouldnt trust the glue. to much time and money to trust it for me. i usually hang the new skin and leave it long at the top about an inch. then cut thru small sections with a thin cutoff wheel and tack weld as i go. then go back and weld it solid.

[freethinker]

having just done it i would not recommend that a rookie try to butt weld a quarter. it must be perfect the first time or you just ruined a quarter. if you flange it gives you a little bit of wiggle room and is more forgiving of mistakes in your cutting.

[69lm69gp]

First off putting a flange is a panel is going to distort the shape of the body panel unless the panel is already flat. Think about it, you are squeezing a curved panel between two flat pieces of steel and putting a shape in the metal that ensures that the panel will not spring back to it's original shape.

Butt welding is the way to go.

If you are going to go the glue route you could glue a strip of metal to the back of the original panel hanging down below the cut to act as a flange. Instead of glue, you could also tack weld the strip of metal as well.

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by 69lm69gp

First off putting a flange is a panel is going to distort the shape of the body panel unless the panel is already flat. Think about it, you are squeezing a curved panel between two flat pieces of steel and putting a shape in the metal that ensures that the panel will not spring back to it's original shape.

Butt welding is the way to go.

If you are going to go the glue route you could glue a strip of metal to the back of the original panel hanging down below the cut to act as a flange. Instead of glue, you could also tack weld the strip of metal as well.

Well said. Butt weld if you can. Flanged joints sometimes give ghost lines.

Don

[antique69lemans]

Originally Posted by 69lm69gp

First off putting a flange is a panel is going to distort the shape of the body panel unless the panel is already flat. Think about it, you are squeezing a curved panel between two flat pieces of steel and putting a shape in the metal that ensures that the panel will not spring back to it's original shape.

Butt welding is the way to go.

If you are going to go the glue route you could glue a strip of metal to the back of the original panel hanging down below the cut to act as a flange. Instead of glue, you could also tack weld the strip of metal as well.

If you fit it well, I would recommend butt weld. First try this. Practice butt welding some metal. A great help it to find some aluminum or copper bar to back the weld up. When placed behind the weld area it helps dissipate the heat and makes burn away less likely. There are welding spoons for this made from copper. I have some 1/4" aluminum flat bar I use. It will not stick to the weld, and on flat areas I clamp it when possible. On a quarter it will be a two person job to back it because you can't reach around and weld. If you prove this method, you will be likely to convince your father on this. I understand because my father and I have different methods because of our comfort levels and experience. If you have floor pans to do or a smaller repair, begin there.

[wytnyt]

why not fish plate it,that provides a solid backing for welding and when finished if desired you can go back and grind the fish plate off for a seamless finish
only way to go
very few can butt weld and get it good enough,i cant and have done this stuff 30+ years now
another advantage when fish plating,when the weld is ground down you still have a weld thickness of the panel,,where with butt welding the weld ends up being very thin due to surfacing.

[mikes2nd]

Originally Posted by wytnyt

why not fish plate it,.

I guess i could fish plate steel in places on the actual body? that would certainly help.

small fish plates every 3-4 inches underneath the original?

That would definately help with keeping it right. I will practice butt welding.

I am pretty sure i can pull it off. I will use the airgun in between welds to keep it cool.

[Greg Reid]

Keeping it from warping is not as much a challenge as preventing holes. That's something I still haven't perfected. Butt welding is a real challenge for me. The welder and wire makes a big difference too.
I think that fishplate idea is a good one. Best of both worlds

[First Bird]

I flanged my quarter a half inch from the top using a pneumatic flanger. I learned to MIG weld just to restore my car. Lots of practice butt welding sheetmetal got me mediocre results. So I lap welded and I'm very happy with the results. It's gonna be a driver, not a show car.

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by mikes2nd

I guess i could fish plate steel in places on the actual body? that would certainly help.

small fish plates every 3-4 inches underneath the original?

That would definately help with keeping it right. I will practice butt welding.

I am pretty sure i can pull it off. I will use the airgun in between welds to keep it cool.

I think that using an air gun to cool the weld will cause it to shrink and distort more. Just go slowly and space your welds far apart. Let them slowly cool on their own. Patience is the key.

Don

[mikes2nd]

Originally Posted by dhutton

I think that using an air gun to cool the weld will cause it to shrink and distort more. Just go slowly and space your welds far apart. Let them slowly cool on their own. Patience is the key.

Don

that advice comes from a pro. weld about a inch, then cool them down, weld an inch, cool down, etc.

[cnc]

Originally Posted by First Bird

I flanged my quarter a half inch from the top using a pneumatic flanger. I learned to MIG weld just to restore my car. Lots of practice butt welding sheetmetal got me mediocre results. So I lap welded and I'm very happy with the results. It's gonna be a driver, not a show car.

Looks great sorry I had to fix this pic all the blood was rushing to my head trying to look at it.....lol

[wytnyt]

Originally Posted by mikes2nd

that advice comes from a pro. weld about a inch, then cool them down, weld an inch, cool down, etc.

no need to wait between stitching,,just go another area and weld
its better actually as it brings everything together better

[PONTIAC-ONE]

Fish plate? ....pic?

Would that be welding a piece of metal to the existing 1/4 opening on the inside so the new 1/4 has something to stop it/hold it so that the skin is held in place for the weld....kinda like a back rest?
I'll be doing 1/4 skins soon too.

[cnc]

Originally Posted by PONTIAC-ONE

Fish plate? ....pic?

Would that be welding a piece of metal to the existing 1/4 opening on the inside so the new 1/4 has something to stop it/hold it so that the skin is held in place for the weld....kinda like a back rest?
I'll be doing 1/4 skins soon too.

Yep the plate is usually just spot welded into place i beleive

[x-bird2]

i've used the "fish plate" method before (never heard it called that). It's also a good "save" method for goofs when cutting panels for butt welds--that and it works well when you have to really reshape poorly fitting repop panels. use a thinner gauge than the original so that you can easily shape it mimic the body lines and keep the width of it as thin as possible to prevent it from forcing the adjoining panel above the surface of the original where there are contours to follow. as far as "stitch" welding, even one inch long bead is too much heat-wise imho. i just go by one single spot weld about 3 to 4 inches apart. to prevent flange joints from coming through, after grinding it flush, we always used to hammer them down a bit then go over them with fiber reinforced filler (tiger or gorilla hair).