[Roonster]

Recently bought an 82 TA that has 305 w/Crossfire injection and auto trans, posi rear. Car is in perfect shape, 100% original with 30k original miles. I am considering options to boost the HP/torque. Want it to be streetable. What are some decent options for the 305? Haven't heard much good about the Crossfire injection (or the 305 for that matter). Should I deepsix the 305 and go with a different motor/trans combo? Is there room enough to drop in a Pontiac 455 or would the engine /trans be too much modification to make work? Would cooling be an issue for the big block? Would the rear axle be able to handle a major increase in HP? Just toying with ideas and looking for suggestions.

[mechanic17]

Before a hundred people come out of the woodwork (or at least, they would if you posted on a Chevy forum) to say "Ditch that boat-anchor 305 for a 350 or 383--there's no replacement for displacement!", let me just say:

Bunk. There's no substitute for thinking for yourself. And none for a 30k-healthy motor you already own.

If you are not looking for a world-beater, that 305 will serve you well. There's even a website out there which caters to CFI owners (these can be tricky to fool with and a computer controls them, so many ditch them. If you do, keep everything intact in case you want to go back to original someday.)

The heads and the cam are tiny in that motor. For about $1000 you can get a new set of vortecs, a single 4bbl manifold, and a Comp Cams XE262 and you will bury the car in smoke and destroy the 7.5" rear end and probably the tranny too. Sound good?

[Roonster]

I like your attitude. Maybe I'm old school but I really like smoke and the smell/sound of tires skinning the pavement. I had a 69 GTO when I was 18...wow did that get me in trouble. Not looking to race the TA, I'm just a retired Navy guy that wants to have fun driving it. What is the CFI website you were referring to? If I go to a carb set up I would keep the CFI in the event I wanted to get back to original. Probably not too many TA's like this around anymore. (in this condition anyway) Do you have P/N for the Vortec heads? What type of intake and carb would you suggest? I'm thinking that the distributor would have to be swapped too, since the computer controls advance for the CFI and the current distributor would not work with a carb. Thanks for your help, really appreciate it.

[mechanic17]

Here's a current auction with the 12558062 part #, there are two part numbers and the other ends with 906 I think.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...s#ht_636wt_939

Be aware that if you have dished pistons your compression will be too low with a 64cc chamber, even with a .018" head gasket. I don't know how to check w/out pulling the heads.

Now as for the website, I never owned a crossfire and ran across it by accident once. Lots of tips and parts, etc. Damned if I can find it, but you might ask here: http://www.crossfire.homeip.net/index.php?

Carbs are a matter of preference but I like the 750 cfm quadrajet. You'd need a manifold with the special Vortec bolt pattern and ports, but many of the most popular have a version of it. Hard to go wrong with a Edelbrock performer RPM air-gap, but with the hood clearance on your TA you'll be limited unless you get a cowl induction. Try a performer eps or weiand street warrior (these need a square-bore carb like a holley 600.) Remember, Vortec version.

With a 305 you need a 1.94 intake valve MAX or you'll have bore shrouding if not interference problems, so don't let anyone talk you into 2.02 valves. You will want a spring upgrade if you buy stock v-tecs as they are set up for low lift cams from the factory.

The distributor can be changed to an HEI, any chevy forum can tell you how.

I'm running a similar setup in a '93 Cadillac Fleetwood with headers and all--a work in progress, to say the least. That cam pulls 13 inches of vacuum under my TBI and the brakes are iffy, but the thing weighs 4200 pounds and pulls hard.

[67GTONUT]

I miss my 82 TransAm.....



But I will tell you this.....

Stock 305..... I trashed the stock transmission once and the stock rear twice....

Just enjoy your low mileage car as it is....

[mechanic17]

Oh, check your rear end to see if its a standard wimpy 10-bolt or an australian 9-bolt (borg-warner, I think). has an odd looking cover and the drain plug may be in the cover. If so, be happy, they're much better!

Here's a pic: http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...lry/index.html

[sleepy]

Those Knight rider birds with the 305 put out 150hp and still smoked the tires off. The good thing is it's just a few bolts to switch to a 350, sb400 with many hp enhancing parts available for cheap compared to Pontiac, ford and dodge.
The cross fire is a turd so trash it. It should have a 700R4 with the TV cable(no computer control of the trans) but should have the internals upgraded and the shift kit put in if you go with the bigger motor.
Up grading the rear end to a 4th gen TA rear is recommended. They both use the bar between the trans and rear end like the 84 and up vette.

[gold bird]

miss the 86.

[Young Pontiac Guy]

Vortec heads and intake are what everyone says is the way to go- especially without too much modification. I would definitely ditch the computer controlled crossfire setup but...definitely set the crossfire aside.

Thirdgen.org is a good site to get some insight into what folks are doing with their third gen Birds as well. They will have all types of insight into the vortec swaps.

YPG

[Steve Barcak]

Wisest thing to do is put a REAL Pontiac motor in your car and make it a real Pontiac! They fit in there good too. I have seen several swapped in over the years.

Steve

Hosting-
Thur-Sun April 8-11, 2010 12th annual Pontiac Heaven Phoenix www.pontiacheaven.org
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[TransAm525]

I would keep the Crossfire Injection system. As a former owner of a 1982 Corvette, with the Crossfire Injection system, I can say the system has a lot of potential. If you haven't already, you'll quickly see the Crossfire system has a bad reputation--this reputation comes from people who know nothing of how to work on the Crossfire Injection system.

As already mentioned, you're potential will be limited with only 305 cubic inches to work with. The good new is you can use all the 350 parts from the Corvette of the same year. The Crossfire Injection system has great potential, but you'll really have to do your homework to find out what needs to be done. The most limiting factor will be the very primitive ECM (electronic control module) running your fuel injection system. The computer will adapt to very minor modifications, but large modifications will require the PROM (program read only memory) chip to be replaced/re-burned with calibrations for your new modifications. GM offered their first ECM in 1981, which is the same system used in 1982, only adapted to EFI.

Here's a few things you can do to optimize the Crossfire Injection system:

-Port intake manifold ports. You'll see when you remove the intake the ports are only 2/3 the size of the intake ports on the head. There are two accepted theories for this. One theory is the difference increases port airflow velocity. The second theory (and most accepted) is for performance reduction. When GM was developing TPI, the Crossfire Injection system actually made more power, so in order to make the TPI system look superior once released, GM closed off 1/3 of the intake ports on the Crossfire Injection system.

-Remove EGR channel inside intake manifold
-Machine intake manifold top as necessary for perfect lid seal (they all leak)
-Modify swirl plates by cutting down swirl vanes and surrounding structure for increased airflow. If operated in only hot climates, swirl plates may be removed. DO NOT removed swirl plates if used as a daily driver and/or operated in cooler climates--poor fuel atomization will occur.
-Convert throttle body fuel pressure regulator to adjustable style
-Balance throttle bodies for equal fuel distribution (requires the use of a manometer)
-Change in-tank fuel pump to a 1985 TPI fuel pump
-Upgrade fuel injectors to late 454 fuel injectors
-Bore throttle bodies
-Replace air filters with K&N or Accel Cool Blue high-flow filters

All other engine, ignition, and exhaust modifications can be performed just like on any pre-computer era vehicle. If any timing adjustments are to be made, ensure the brown distributor ECM wire is disconnected while using the timing light and re-connected once the adjustment is complete.

Do some research on the following sites for further information. As mentioned, serious modifications (beyond what I listed above) will require a new/re-burned PROM. You'll quickly see the largest limitation to the entire system is the primitive (and very slow) ECM, however there are several options out there for ECM replacements which will allow faster computation capability and even laptop computer programing.

http://users.swko.net/~lionsden/crossfire.htm

http://www.corvetteforum.com

[schalmat]

Go the inexpensive route.Pick up a 305 from a monte ss or tpi firebird.those 305's were flat top piston motors.do some good work on the heads and a good roller cam,maybe add Tpi.Or research the cfi unit and make some improvements.Add a little stall and a good gear and go huntin.you can stroke that 305 to a 340 also i believe.Have fun with it!

[mechanic17]

Retrofiting a roller cam into an 82 engine would not be inexpensive, and he'd just be overflowing his heads.

I'm assuming he wants to keep his low-mileage, original car as lightly modified as possible while upgrading his performance for low $$. Swapping in a 350 would require upgrading the rear end and fuel delivery system at minimum, and probably the tranny too as someone else pointed out. Not to mention the cost of getting another motor in there, which is always more than you think.

Good site on CFI. I learned alot already! But that looks an awful lot of work and you trash the originality again. IMHO if you ever go to sell the car and you can point to an unFUBAREDed CFI complete in the trunk, with the mint heads and cam there too, you've still got an original car. Tell the guy "the car is more fun as it is, but that stuff goes with it. I'm an adult and I just wanted more grunt, but I haven't beat hell out of the car."

My only concern is the top end I suggested will overflow your exhaust, especially the manifolds and cat. You could try and see, but I'm betting upgraded y-pipe at minimum. The back end might be fine--I did that on my Caddy. A 305 will work well into a good, free breathing single muffler (which the car MAY already have.) The exhaust matters less as you go further back on the car, too. If you already have duallies (doubt it) you're all set except for manifolds ('84 corvettes might work, or any old-school truck rams horn that bends back toward the firewall--these would be tight, though).

Under no circumstances would I put headers in that car. The gain will not be worth it.

[Overkillphil]

Does it still have those silly "Bowling Ball" wheel covers?

[75TA]

Roonster,

As a former 82 TA owner, unless you want to change/beef up all your drive train, I would not upgrade the HP. As someone already mentioned, I went through two stock rear ends until I put a dana in and had problems with the transmission several times (manual). My only upgrades were a hotter computer chip and removal of the cat. Those drive trains were designed with barely any margin over the stock HP. The only plus you have going is the automatic is easier on the rear end.

[Roonster]

Still researching options. Want to say thanks to all for the inputs. Have more questions before starting a mod (my winter project):
1) Modifying the CFI...I was a machinist for a number of years before going Navy, so I understand the boring process of throttle bores and the machining of the intake. But where can you buy the larger throttle plates?
2) Will the stock heads, cam, and exhaust manifolds be able to function with the increased CFM and 454 injectors?
3) I have already researched a hotter chip option...long story but I have replaced the ECM and know that the PROM is the original GM issue. How much of an increase would be gained in performance by increasing bore to 2", manifold mod, and hotter chip?
4) Do you suggest the TPI fuel pump because the stock pump in the tank won't be able to handle the volume?
5) Lastly, is it normal that the original CFI runs a bit rich on cold startup...I mean was this one of the "issues" that CFI had during it's limited production? The throttle bodies have been balanced using a manometer. I replaced and adjusted the TPS to spec. and am getting no error codes. Also, during warm weather and a bit of running hard, the thing has a bit of spark knock on low end accelleration. I run premium fuel. Another "issue" of CFI or not?
Questions on the Vortec/carb option:
1) Replacing CFI means no more engine controls by ECM. The ECM wiring diagram shows some pretty crucial signals needed for overall function of the vehicle going thru it. Leave the ECM plugged in and just tape off and get engine control plugs out of the way or is there some rewiring involved? Gotta admit, when you start rewiring vehicles, the potential for creating more problems and "Murpy's Law" jumping in there concerns me a bit.
2) Looking at the setup that Mechanic17 suggested. First, Will the in-tank CFI fuel pump work or will I need to remove it and go with a different electric or mechanical pump. The current pump is rated 11 psi and most carbs only need around 5-7 psi. Or can I use the same pump and install an external pressure regulator?
3) You suggested the Comp Cams xe262h in conjunction with the Vortec heads. I like the matchup. You suggested stiffer springs installed in the heads. The lift for the cam is close to the .480 limit on the heads. No need to worry and alter heads for more lift...say .500 or .520? Will the heads need to be machined for the stiffer springs?
4) Looking at exhaust manifolds, mid to late 80's corvette or earlier rams horn version. Looks like there could be clearance issues with motor mount brackets since they all come down in the center of the manifold. The stock manifold comes out at an angle at back of manifold to the y-pipe. Is there someone out there that has found a manifold they know will fit? Also, advice not to go with headers, because of heat generation or just plain nobody makes a set designed for the application without major mods? Would
the y-pipe need to be fabricated with either option?
Once again all, thanks for your input.

[TransAm525]

1. You will have to perform some research. The Corvette Forum has A LOT of info on the CFI system, to include some very serious modifications.

2. Yes. However, the heads and exhaust manifolds are about the worst GM components out there. If your state requires some form of emissions equipment inspection or smog, you'll need to keep the air injection components connected. Luckily, many header manufacturers produce headers with the air injection pipes. If headers aren't in the budget, the 1982 Corvette factory headers will bolt on and offer some increased performance. Regarding heads, there are several options available.

3. It depends on the cam, heads, and exhaust combo. Increasing the throttle bore will do nothing but hinder fuel atomization with the stock internal components. I can't remember what the original TB CFM is, however unless you have some radical plans, 750 max CFM total will suffice for any modifications within a reasonable norm. To find an exact CFM calculation for your combo (and future modifications), see: http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_CFM_Calculator.html. There are several ECM conversions available, and a lot more have come onto the market since I owned my 82 Corvette. I recall the FAST and Megasquirt ECMs were popular at the time, allowing PC chip programing.

4. Yes. The TPI pump has a higher volume output. The swap is literally plug-and-play. Fuel volume isn't a terrible issue with the 305 (it is with the 350), but once the modifications begin you'll quickly see the stock CFI pump runs out of volume at the higher rpms.

5. Yes. All fuel injection systems run in open loop mode (pre-calibrated air/fuel ratio setting not using the O2 sensor) until the coolant temperature sensor detects the engine is warm (around 160 degrees). Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the system enters closed loop mode and uses the O2 sensor for all air/fuel ratio calculations. The stock O2 sensor is adequate, but installing a self-heated O2 sensor would offer more refined air/fuel ratio control. The self-heated O2 sensor swap requires a switched-hot wire connection, the rest is plug-and-play. Note, a self-heated sensor is a must if the O2 sensor is installed into an exhaust component that is ceramic coated. With the above mentioned, DO NOT install a 160 degree thermostat. Doing so will prevent the system from entering closed loop mode. The spark knock is normal and the knock sensor (if working) will adjust the timing to compensate. If you have a constant problem with spark knock, check the initial timing (with the brown wire disconnected). Use 87 octane fuel for the best power. Higher octane will result in a slower burn and less combustion energy.

1. True, but you would be better off starting with a pre-computer era (pre-1981) Firebird. I have seen others install the original Edelbrock and Thompson Crossram manifolds with carbs and Hilborn injection systems in place of the TPI, however as you stated a lot of wiring changes will be required, not to mention the check engine light will always be illuminated (unless the bulb is removed).

2. The stock CFI pump will work, but you'll need a fuel pressure regulator with a return line port. You can run a regulator without a return line port, but the life of your fuel pump will be reduced with the constant back pressure.

3. It depends on the springs. Check with the cam manufacturer. If the manufacturer states head machining is required, it's for spring coil clearance. Installing stiffer springs, without machining the spring pockets, may result in coil bind, leading to camshaft lobe damage and bent pushrods.

4. All I can say is they will bolt to the heads, I can't speak for the frame clearance. Honestly, if you're going to spend the time and money with the Corvette header swap (if they do fit), you'd be better off installing 3 or 4 tube headers. The headers will offer greater performance gain, are offered in ceramic coat (highly recommended), and will fit your exact application. Even though the 82 Corvette headers would be an upgrade, they are still restrictive.

Other modifications recommended if you keep the CFI:

-Torque converter lockup control module (prevents torque converter lockup until transmission is in 4th gear)--highly recommended. http://www.jegs.com/p/JET/JET-700-R4...23906/10002/-1
-Shift kit
-Transmission governor swap. Stock governor prevents 4th gear use under full throttle. Modified governor allows 4th gear use at full throttle.
-Stall converter
-Remove air injection pump
-Underdrive pulleys
-Recurve distributor timing
-Ignition multiple strike discharge box (will smooth out CFI idle and provide more efficient idle fuel burn).
-Convert to 1.6 ratio full roller rockers. Set lash 1/4-1/3 past zero lash (hot)
-Dual exhaust with x-pipe
-Rear gear ratio change
-180 degree thermostat
-Throttle body spacers (may or may not help. Requires dyno pulls for accurate results).

[Roonster]

Thanks for the response...just had a revelation and will need to do some research. I will explain but will require a little history of the car from the guy I bought it from.
The well-to-do dad bought son #1 a new 1980 TA upon his graduation from college. He bought son #2 the new 1982 TA upon graduation from college. Five years later and with approx. 15k miles (only driven in North Dakota summers) son #2 puts it in the ditch. No major body damage but the oil pan hits an exposed boulder and comes to a halt. Insurance agent shows up and wants to total the car. Dad is pissed and buys car from the ins. company and tells agent to pxxx off (title is good-not salvaged). He brought it to the local Chevy garage and they pulled the motor. Went thru it and replaced as necessary and sent dad on his way. The car sat for about ten years. It was taken out of storage and driven for two years then mothballed til' I bought it.
This info came from son #1, dad has Alhzeimers and can't give me any details (I believe son#1 without a doubt- the car is pretty much spotless and still has original exhaust/no rust-I had my local Chevy dealership check it out- they couldn't believe the condition and originality of car). I ran across a website a few weeks ago that I can't find again but it said that the 82 CFI TA engine was painted Pontiac blue. The 83 and beyond was painted black. Mine is painted black. Leads me to believe the block was replaced or the Chevy garage painted it black after the work (doubtfull). What I'm wondering is if the block was replaced in the mid to late 80's, would it be different? I mean different pistons, cam etc. I'm not sure. I will have to figure out if numbers are matching...not sure how to do that yet. I will also have to cross numbers I find to determine year etc of the block I have if not original. Laters!

[Roonster]

Thanks for the response...just had a revelation and will need to do some research. I will explain but will require a little history of the car from the guy I bought it from.
The well-to-do dad bought son #1 a new 1980 TA upon his graduation from college. He bought son #2 the new 1982 TA upon graduation from college. Five years later and with approx. 15k miles (only driven in North Dakota summers) son #2 puts it in the ditch. No major body damage but the oil pan hits an exposed boulder and comes to a halt. Insurance agent shows up and wants to total the car. Dad is pissed and buys car from the ins. company and tells agent to pxxx off (title is good-not salvaged). He brought it to the local Chevy garage and they pulled the motor. Went thru it and replaced as necessary and sent dad on his way. The car sat for about ten years. It was taken out of storage and driven for two years then mothballed til' I bought it.
This info came from son #1, dad has Alhzeimers and can't give me any details (I believe son#1 without a doubt- the car is pretty much spotless and still has original exhaust/no rust-I had my local Chevy dealership check it out- they couldn't believe the condition and originality of car). I ran across a website a few weeks ago that I can't find again but it said that the 82 CFI TA engine was painted Pontiac blue. The 83 and beyond was painted black. Mine is painted black. Leads me to believe the block was replaced or the Chevy garage painted it black after the work (doubtfull). What I'm wondering is if the block was replaced in the mid to late 80's, would it be different? I mean different pistons, cam etc. I'm not sure. I will have to figure out if numbers are matching...not sure how to do that yet...will figure it out. I will also have to cross numbers I find to determine year etc of the block I have if not original. My findings could change my plans to upgrade. Laters!

[Dens71TA]

1982 is the last year for corporate blue on GM engines so chances are your '82 T/A is no longer numbers matching if the engine is corporate black. The partial VIN and engine code is on the passenger side of the engine block cylinder deck behind the alternator. You'll need a rag to clean off any grease and a flash light to read it.