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#1
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Zero lash?
I think that I understand the process of getting to zero lash but not sure. Once I start to feel resistance, stop, turn it one half turn. Now I cant turn the push rod at all, did I go to far? Thanks
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#2
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Quote:
Once you feel resistance stop, Turn 1/2 turn to set pre-load. tighten set screw while holding polylock nut. Once this is done, turn the set screw and polylock nut together just a tag. What this does is bind the setscrew to the housing of the polylock nut. Also make sure when installing the polylocks that you have enough thread inserted into the polylock from the 7/16 stud. I think Cliff had said something like 9 full threads. Make sure the set screw is also out far enough when installing the polylocks so it doesn't interfere with setting pre-load. Make sure your on the base of the cam when adjusting your rockers. Hope this makes sense. Charles
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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, E-head, Solid roller 3650 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 10.12@133 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
#3
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Assuming setting the lash using hydraulic lifters and polylocks (nuts with allen-head setscrews)...
The biggest mistake first-timers tend to make is over-tightening. You just want to snug the lock down to take all play out of the pushrod. You may not really feel any resistance with a wrench when you reach this point especially if the lifters are new. Then tighten 1/2 turn and lock the nut down as described in the previous post. I always spin and wiggle the pushrod with my other hand while slowly tightening until I feel there is no play, instead of relying on feeling resistance on the nut. If you can't turn the pushrod at all its a sign that you may have gone too far and collapsed the lifters. If this is the case the valves won't close all the way and the engine will run very badly. But its an easy fix, just loosen the lifters and do it over again. Walt
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1969 Lemans vert, matador red, 462 CI, 3.07 12-bolt posi 1974 455 TA, admiralty blue/red interior HPP "cover car" - sold "The best way to show a car is to drive it" |
#4
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Just read your thread on getting acceptable clearance to the recessed retainers with the stamped roller-tip rockers. Been there, done that. The guys gave you good advice and glad to hear that you have it licked. Sometimes it takes perseverance to get the combo right but well worth it!
Walt
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1969 Lemans vert, matador red, 462 CI, 3.07 12-bolt posi 1974 455 TA, admiralty blue/red interior HPP "cover car" - sold "The best way to show a car is to drive it" |
#5
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Thanks, I have everything back together and I am geting ready to set the rockers and push rods. After the half turn, should the push rod still spin?
Also, it looks like I cant find (2) lifters, they are the Fed mogul, I can get (2) of the same type, but diferent brand (melling) at auto zone, would that be okay? thanks |
#6
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Quote:
I'm not sure on the lifters..but should be ok. Just different manufacture. Charles
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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, E-head, Solid roller 3650 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 10.12@133 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
#7
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found the other 2
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#8
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__________________
68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, E-head, Solid roller 3650 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 10.12@133 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
#9
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Thanks, and I am back at work! Getting ready to set the rockers, this page makes it relatively idiot proof
http://www.pontiacstreetperformance....p/rockers.html Thanks for clearing up the fact that it should not spin after pre load is set, that was throwing me for a loop. Once this is done, its all gaskets and bolts If I get it all together today will post a pic, hopefully sitting in the engine bay. Thanks Vic |
#10
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Good link! Was glad to see that they also tell you to judge when you have zero lash by feeling the pushrod (not the adjustment nut!)
You may or may not be able to turn the pushrod right after adjustment, depends on how long it takes the lifter to bleed down to the setting. Once it has bled down you may be able to turn it easily, but that's just the hydraulic lifter doing its job. I wouldn't worry about it either way as long as you are confident that you have found the zero lash point before adding the 1/2 turn. Walt
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1969 Lemans vert, matador red, 462 CI, 3.07 12-bolt posi 1974 455 TA, admiralty blue/red interior HPP "cover car" - sold "The best way to show a car is to drive it" |
#11
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I'd totally get away from trying to spin the pushrod. Best to move the top of the pushrod in the rocker back and forth - from left fender to right fender for lack of a better explanation. It's pretty easy this way to know when zero lash is obtained because the slop will have just went away when you are where you want to be. Spinning the pushrod just doesn't give you the go-no-go feeling that you need.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
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