[OrigOwner77]

Here's a good one for you guys...

I have a Summit mini-starter on my 80 T/A ('68 400 block). When installing the starter, I couldn't get the starter to line up no matter which of the 4 positions I clocked it. I finally flipped the starter "upside-down" with the solenoid towards the ground and found a position that worked great. The only issue with this is that the positive post (which is on the side of the starter, not the back like the factory starter) is very close to my header tube (cheapy Hedmans).

I've heard of some cases where current/voltage/whatnot can arc over small distances. The area is too hot for a vacuum cap over the positive post. What can I do to prevent anything from happening? Maybe a small dimple in the header tube with a ball-peen hammer?

Ideas?

[dmac]

can you reverse the mounting plate on the starter and find a better position? I have a summit starter and had no problem getting it into a good position.

[matrix]

Can you cut the post down. It only needs to be as long as the thickness of the cable lug and nut. Any extra sticking out past the threaded portion of the nut is mechanically useless.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by OrigOwner77

I've heard of some cases where current/voltage/whatnot can arc over small distances.

Spark plug wires YES, battery cables NO. As long as you have some kind of air gap, it shouldn't be a problem, other than heat on the solenoid.

How much gap are you talking about?

Sounds like you need some kind of non metalic header wrap.

[TransAm525]

My IMI starter stud was also too close for comfort. I just used the Dremel to cut the stud back just about flush with the nut.

[OrigOwner77]

I didn't think about cutting the post down. That's not a bad idea.

As far as the gap, there is enough to get the nut off, but that is about it. Actually, come to think about it, I put the cable/nut on first, then mounted the starter. Getting the nut off would probably be close.

Regarding changing the mounting position, for whatever reason, this is the ONLY position I could mount the starter. It has 4 mounting (clock) positions as it ships (starter over solenoid). I flipped the mounting block over (solenoid under starter), so I gained an additional 4 positions. The position I'm using is the only one I could get to mount smoothly. Either the stud would hit the oil pan (when using the initial 4 positions), or the solenoid would be against a header tube or the oil pan. Running the solenoid on the bottom of the starter got me the clearance I need, but then I ran into the post hitting the header tube in the other 3 positions (or the starter just not clearing, period).

I'll probably leave it and make sure everything is tight. If I get ambitious, I may measure and cut/dremel the stud down.

I was going to get some non-metallic header wrap, but then I thought about where to clamp it. As I only need to wrap a small section of tube, I could just clamp it where appropriate. But with my luck, the clamp(s) would loosen and then arc against the starter post. LOL. The car has had a couple of freak wiring incidents (no full-fledged fires, yet) so I'm trying to take as many precautions as possible. Haha.

[lust4speed]

I would cut the stud off flush. The mini starters with the lug on the outside come close to the header tube, and other mini starters with the lug on the inside come very close to the oil pan. Nothing moves around down there so a quarter to three-eighths of an inch is plenty of room.

[gtofreek]

As quick Silver mentioned, with 12 volts, it will never jump a gap. 50,000 volts from a spark plug wire? Now that's a different story. It will have to touch the header to short out.