[dancolkate]

I grabbed this shifter at a swap meet this week. The body is the usual 3138 with what appears to be a (date?) code of 6 7F4

How do I remove the stick to see the p/n?

The linkage rods are not threaded for adjusment as my 68 service manual shows. Is there any way to ID the linkage rods?

The mounting adapter is p/n 9776403, This looks different than the 68 service manual too??

[GTOBOB]

I can help with the removal of the stick. Take two feeler gages (about .015" each) and ram them between the stick and the shifter housing, one on each side. (Actually, I am remembering that only the driver's side feeler gage is needed. Maybe someone with better memory can verify this.)

Then, pull on the stick, being sure not to hit yourself between the eyes with the threaded end when it finally breaks loose!

If I were to guess at the date code, I'd ignore the leading "6" and guess June 7, 1964, and that the early shifter linkages didn't have adjustment.

Dennis at DME [(606) 237-6648] isn't cheap, but he has the original stuff that will help you (mounting plate, linkage, etc.). Tell him bob Dransman sent you. He had my linkage, dichromate plated, with bushings & all hardware for $275 (ouch), but the original plate was only $40 (not horrible). The speedo gear was $12, and speedo gear holder, dog and screw was $12 (new).

Good Luck,

[gto4evr]

only thing I'll add is that you should need a feeler gauge on both sides not just the drivers side. And it needs to go down between the arm and the metal shim retainer, not the shim retainer and the rubber. Now if the clips are broken which is quite common, then you may need only one or NONE on the feeler gauges! Don't get smoked into "NOS" clips I see on ebay all the time, Mr Gasket (that bought out hurst) still supplies the factory clips. I had a local shop order them for like $15 or something last year.

[Chiefpontiac]

My guess is it's a '67 shifter with what appears to be '65-'66 linkage. I use an .020 feeler gauge on the driver side only to remove the handle. Yes, there are clips on both sides of the rubber inserts, but the handle is slotted on one side only...

[dancolkate]

Thanks for the tips guys. The feeler gage worked great.

I'm happy to say the handle is a 5324 which I "think" is correct for my 68.

[68addict]

Originally Posted by dancolkate

Thanks for the tips guys. The feeler gage worked great.

I'm happy to say the handle is a 5324 which I "think" is correct for my 68.

Dan,

You are correct. That is for 68-69 GTO with buckets with or without console according to Pete Serio's Book, Vintage Hurst Shifters page 85.

[Bet Winner]

Originally Posted by dancolkate

I grabbed this shifter at a swap meet this week. The body is the usual 3138 with what appears to be a (date?) code of 6 7F4
How do I remove the stick to see the p/n?
The linkage rods are not threaded for adjusment as my 68 service manual shows. Is there any way to ID the linkage rods?

I have only seen six or seven digits preceding a letter on the shifters I've had, but I'll take a stab at the date. My "semi-educated" guess is June 1967 for the date using the first digit for the month and the second digit for the year. All of the other numbers are not understood except for some kind of batch numbers used at Hurst. If my guess is correct, I would sure use this shifter. Finding a perfectly dated original shifter may be very tough, and the date code will be hard to read once installed.

Your linkage rods may be aftermarket rods. The correct rods are repoduced, and I used Pete Serio to restore my shifter. He also has the repo rods. You could have the shifter rebuilt and skip the restoration. It just depends on how far you want to go. It is similar to rebuiding or restoring a carb. You can see pictures of mine and the rods in the attached link.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...fter+date+code