[tm7797]

So is this a massive job of a '69 Convertible? I am thinking about converting. Also what do I need to consider for the wheels I will have on the car which will be Cragar SS 15X7's

Thanks

[RAJ7395]

Depends on the scope of your project.

If you want to update to the production style front disk/rear drum then it's a days worth of work, all the pieces are available, and not super hard.

Need to remove the front drum brake assemblies which requires splitting the upper and lower A-arm ball joints and outter tie rods and removing everything in between them. You need to be very carefull so as not to get injured by the spring flying out when the ball joints are broken loose. You can either use a spring compessor to compress the spring or I prefer to leave the shock absorber bolted in place as it acts as a retainer (traps the spring so it can't come out) and as a travel stop for the lower control arm.

Installation of the front disk brake stuff is pretty straight forward. You'll need to disassemble the drum brake assemblies to get the steering arms as they will be reused on the disk brake setup. Next, assemble the disk brake spindles assemblies (spindle, disk brake backing shield, caliper mounting brackets, steering arms, gasket) and bolt them on to the lower a-arm. Use a jack positioned at the end of the lower a-arm (maximum leverage) and raise it up until you have plenty of upper ball joint threads showing and start the upper ball joint nut. Next, reconnect the outter tie rods and torque all fastners to the desired spec and install the cotter pins. Press the bearing races into the rotors, pack the bearings, install the rear bearing, press in the grease seal, install the rotor, install the outter bearing, washer, and torque the nut while spinning the rotor according to the spec. Install the disk brake caliper, pads, and brake hose.

Brake lines- The drum brake and disk brake hard steel lines routings are different. If you want to exactly duplicate the factory setup, you'll need replace the front drum brake line routing brackets with disk brake line brackets (available from Classic). To get the lines to fit the new brackets, you'll have to either cut, tweak, and reflare the existing tube ends or pop for a new set of brake hardlines lines. I'd get new lines as they will free of contaminants/blockages/sludge but they can be a pain to fish in under the motor mounts. To keep the rubber hard to caliper lines off the tires during turns, GM drilled holes in the upper a-arm and bolted on a line routing bracket directly to the a-arm. Again, the brackets are available aftermarket and you can drill and tap the holes without much trouble.

Last step is to bench bleed the new disk brake master cylinder and put it and a new disk brake porportioning valve on and bleed the entire system.

The stock setup fits a 14" wheel so your good to go with your 15"s. If you use a bigger rotor setup then you'll have to verify what inner wheel diameter is compatible with that rotor/caliper setup.

FYI-I thought that were a few companies out there that were making drum to disk conversion kits that used the stock drum spindles.

[joes67]

If it helps I just did my 67 fronts to disc on Sunday. Spend $449 NPD kit and it bolted on easily. While it was apart I replaced both upper and lower ball joints just because. Only thing I screwed up and mounted the calipers wrong and the bleeder need to be up. Other than that, big stopping improvement.. I am running 15 x 7 Cragar SS no problem.

[tm7797]

Thanks for the responses. Sounds like it's my next improvement project then. Appreciate it.

[jim69bird]

The following link may help.

http://www.scarebird.com/12802/14301.html.

Of course they are not the fancy powder coated ones, but if they are hidden this is not a bad way to go.