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#1
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Village Idiot needs more help - steering wheel puller
I think I've alluded to this before... but I am no master mechanic/electrical engineer. Some of the stuff I read on here amazes me. The high point of my technical experience has been replacing disc brakes or the occasional exhaust system on some of the "current" year vehicles I've owned. Regardless, I love my '64, have always wanted one, and am so happy to be learning as I go.
Fortunately Easter has come early for me, and I was the winning bidder on eBay for a beautiful '64 custom sport wood steering wheel. Whoo Hoo! I've taken off "most" of my Grant wheel and am now down to what I believe is a "conversion piece". It's a steel block that I think has to come off. I've been told I need a steering wheel puller to accomplish this. I purchased a universal Grant steering wheel puller and am eagerly awaiting it in the mail. How this tool is supposed to work still confuses me. It just looks like a steel plate and a set of bolts that can go through it in various places. I'm sure the tool will arrive with a very rudimentary set of instructions. I don't understand how I can screw bolts into something... in order to remove it? Any insight/tips would be appreciated. - Happy Easter to all |
#2
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The bolts go in the steering wheel. There is a center piece that screws down to the shaft that the steering nut goes onto. As you tighten that piece down the bar tries to pull the bolts up , which in turn pulls the steering wheel up.
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#3
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Makes sense, thank you.
Here is the puller I'm waiting on;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Steer...QQcmdZViewItem Attached is a picture of the foriegn "chunk" sitting on my column. I take it that I'll screw the three outside bolts in until they are seated, then crank in the center bolt as it slowly lifts off the column. A few questions remaining; 1) Can I possibly do any damage? What should I look out for? 2) How was this "chunk" put onto the column in the first place? Was it some kind of compression method? Is that how it is currently affixed? - just squished on there really hard? Thanks again OMT, you've helped me a lot. Both directly and indirectly with all your posts. |
#4
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Yup, That tool should do the job, thread 3 bolt from kit into block, then the center bolt and it will pull the block off. The shaft is tapered and seated with the nut u already have taken off. I do believe u might require a horn contact button, I recall having to remove mine when installing the grant wheel. It's the spring loaded button that goes through the plastic turn signal cancel mechanism that is under your block.
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64 Lemans hardtop 4spd, buckets |
#5
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I'm not sure that one will be strong enough. Mine is more like a classic puller, with a large threaded piece in the center. I don't happen to have a picture of one right now.
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#6
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OMT, I made my own and it looks like the one in the picture and if the one in the picture has a steel base it works fine.
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#7
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Thanks all. The Grant conversion piece popped right off after a few turns and the "correct" wheel fit on perfectly. I was even able to correct a separate problem that I had where the left signal would never turn off. Most likely a side affect of the jerry-rigged Grant wheel setup. I know the link to the picture of the wheel puller I sent earlier seemed flimsy, but the plate was close to a 1/2 thick and did the trick just fine. Thanks again.
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#8
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I would put some sort of protection between the puller threaded bolt and the splined steering shaft. Something soft like a copper penny. Pull the wheel off more than once or twice and it starts to really mess up the shaft.
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