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#1
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Finally got the front timing cover off the 400 in my 69 I 've been working on.Broken long bolt gonna be a real pain to get out.
Hoped to avoid doing anything to the oil pan but it looks so nasty in there it might be a good idea.If I can get it out without raising it up off the motor mounts it'd be a lot easier.Had enough grief already.Simple water pump change has turned into an evolving nightmare.Gotta get broken bolt out of the block, might as well change the fuel pump while it's off, cammer6 was right to point out it'd be kinda dumb not to change the timing chain while there.....and now maybe pull the oil pan. ![]() On the positive side, I'm kinda enjoying working on an older, non computerized,non-smog vehicle again.Been awhile. Now to find some left handed drill bits! ![]() |
#2
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Which bolt has broken off ? Main cap, waterpump, oil pan bolt ?
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#3
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#4
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#5
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Yeah, it's the top driver's side long stud that goes thru the water pump house, thru the timing cover housing and ito the block.Snapped the end of it off and had about 1/2" left sticking out.It was stuck to the timing cover so bad that I ended up having to break it off again at the block.Had to drive it out of the timing cover with a hammer and punch.
Still tough to get out. I was hopping I could pull the oil pan with out jacking up the motor but not sounding too good right now. Any suggestions on getting broken bolt out? Gonna be a bear, I know. ![]() |
#6
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cut slot in end of broken bolt, use hand impact to remove. Reason it did not come out was because of corrosion with timing cover. will come out of iron block without too much trouble now that cover is out of the way.
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#7
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can't cut a slot as it's slightly recessed into block.End is jagged so I tried to grind it flatter and try drilling but I need left hand bits.Tried welding a nut to it when it ws sticking out of the timing cover but no luck.Had to break it off to get the timing cover off.
Now I gotta get whats left in the block out. |
#8
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At this point I would probably drill it out (use a small bit and increase bit size as you make progress) with the reality that you may have to re-tap the hole if you mess up with the drilling.
Phil |
#9
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Dremel tool with the cutting bit wheel worn down will make a slot in that bolt end very quickly. That tool has gotten me out of many a jam!
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Steve Karew |
#10
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Since you probably be drilling it now anyway you could try one of those "easy out"
taps, but I never had much success with them. I was always to paranoid the thing would break off in the hole leaving a hardened chunk of steel to get out too. I had an broken exhaust bolt on the #7 farthest back hole. I found a right angle drill attachment at Sears and was able to drill it out as 69TAPOSER wrote. Re-tapped it and problem solved. Probably your best bet.
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1977 TA 400 9.5:1 CR 351hp 414LbFt, #13 Heads + 1.52 Roller rockers, 1968 Pontiac 400 intake, Holley 4165 650 DP #7054 Howards Hyd .447/.467 IN:288 EX:298 214/224@.050, MSD6A + MSD timing control + H2o/Meth 1-5/8" headers, Magnaflow 200CPI Cats + 2.5" Pypes X, Dynomax STs, TH-700R4 2200 stall, 3.42 Eaton 10-bolt, PS/PB/PW/PL/AC/Cruise 13.84@100.14mph 2.18 60' on P255-60-R15 radials, pump gas, mpg : 21.5 hwy 15.2 city ![]() |
#11
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Got a hole started in it.Gotta pick up some left handed bits and hope they'll coax it out by just drilling.If not, I might try the ease-out but I'm a little leary of them, too.
I've seen them break off in the hole and really mess things up! ![]() |
#12
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I've only used an easy out once and it broke. My problem went from bad to worse and I had to get a machine shop to take the "easy out", out. What a PITA!
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#13
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Get you a good variable speed drill and some left handed drill bits. In the factory that I work in the maint. guys have all but stopped using "easy-outs" instead they use left handed drill bits.
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Ben Mowery |
#14
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UPDATE! Got it drilled out and re-tapped.Installed new timing chain&gears per cammer6.
Good thing I did too as chain was so loose it almost fell off.Installed timing cover and new water pump but noticed the 2 bushings on either side of the inside of the pump are not really held in place by anything.The water pump is over an inch away so what keeps them in place? I can see the force generated by the water pump pushing one in as it circulate but isn't the other side pulling water in? Just curious. ![]() |
#15
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The divider plate will hold the two stamped steel sleeves in place and push against both rubber seals that should be installed in the end of the sleeves. It takes two gaskets to seal the water pump and divider plate on a '69 or later timing cover.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
#16
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If you are missing the divider plate, Ebay has them made of stainless steel for around $25. Only problem is you would have to wait for them.
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#17
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DIVIDER PLATE!?!? That's a new one on me. No idea how long this thing's been without it.Glad I haven't gotten it all assembled yet. I also wondered why there was an extra water pump gasket.
![]() That's why forums are so great. Don't have to go thru all the hit and miss of finding out the hard way.You guys are great! ![]() Now to find the elusive divider plate............! |
#18
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With a divider plate installed, you will find your engine running cooler and better also.
Congrats on getting the broken bolt out. |
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