[az67goat]

I've looked thru the archives, some good info there.
Has anyone here now performed this feat?
If so, could you please reply with a proceedure on how you got this done. I have started soaking the bolts with PB blaster.
Specific question: How do you jack up the engine if needed? Where on the engine do you jack up on? The oil pan? How far does it need to be jacked up? Do you just need to jack up the passenger side, or both sides?
What is this copper stuff that people talk about using on the gaskets?
Thanks again,
Doug

[YVEYANT]

If you are taking off your old manifolds first, do it with the engine warm, the bolts will come out easier, just dont get burned.
I just put R/A Manifolds on my 462 but the motor was out of the car. We got lucky and were able to drop the motor, tranny all accesories and R/A manifolds in one shot,lol
I sprayed my new manifolds with Eastwoods exhaust spray first then I used Fel-Pro Gaskets and they are working great. I was told not to use that Copper gasket maker because if you spray one part uneven or one spot drips, you just created an exhaust leak. If the manifolds are new you should be okay, but if they are used you should have them milled by a machine shop ($20.00 approx.) and well worth it to ensure a good seal. Ideally you should make sure the heads are clean and even as well.
If you have an engine lift it is best to pick it up that way, if not and you have to go by way of jacking up the motor from the oil pan, put a block of wood under it to the jack to distribute the weight better. Lift it up evenly with the bolts already loose and you should be able to judge when there is enough clearance for the manifolds to come out/go in.

[baron_]

yea...i'd suggest an engine hoist
so you can lift one half of the motor at a time

block of wood and a jack may work, with enough cussing

[engineer]

jacking the engine is done with a board under the harmonic balancer \ timing cover, not on the oil pan anywhere.

[6704gto]

i installed the ram air manifoldson my 67 and didnt have to loosen the egine.i jacked the car up but other then that.i removed the manifold at the head pipes.then i removed the bolts holding it to the head and then repeated the process backward to install.the only issue i had was trying to re hook the wires to the starter with the longer heat tub.

[YVEYANT]

Put the heat tube on the back of the drivers side head by just bending the mounting tab to accommodate the new position and run the wires down there minus the positive cable, get a longer positive cable and run it under the drivers side motor mount to avoid any heat from the manifold. I eventually deleted the ignition wire being that I have a remote solenoid now and only have the one 10 gauge wire going down there to the starter. Worked out great and nothing is in harms way. Not to mention cleaned up the engine bay a bit.

[az67goat]

Originally Posted by 6704gto

i installed the ram air manifoldson my 67 and didnt have to loosen the egine.i jacked the car up but other then that.i removed the manifold at the head pipes.then i removed the bolts holding it to the head and then repeated the process backward to install.the only issue i had was trying to re hook the wires to the starter with the longer heat tub.

6704gto,
I'm not sure what you mean by "i removed the manifold at the head pipes"

[az67goat]

Can someone post a pic of their wire routing? Thanks again.

[YVEYANT]

It's all hidden on my car, so that won't do you any good. If you like, PM me with your number and I will call you today

[Tempest]

Check out my pics in this post http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=515695

The wires now all come from the front of the motor to the starter. You must have the wire holder that attaches to the motor mount. You can see in my 1st pic how the ear from the manifold got caught on the frame. after some grinding, it cleared, see pic 2. I jacked up on the oil pan with a 2x4 to distribute the weight, be careful to watch the clearance between the distributor and the firewall. (my distributor was removed). One tip, be sure to feed enough wire through the tube to allow you to secure these to the solonoid BEFORE the starter is put in place, as once the starter is lifted in place, you cannot reach the wires. The passenger side is relatively straight forward, but the engine still needs to be raised. It is a bit of a pain, but it all does fit. Also, the flange bolts are NOT evenly spaced, I had to drill a hole in each flange to accept a stud, there maybe flanges out there that fit from the box, but mine needed another hole to line up.

[YVEYANT]

If it makes you comfortable to use it go for it, but you don't need it. There is a large enough passage right under the mount where it mounts to the cradle to put the positive cable through.

[az67goat]

Do they make repos on the wire routing tube that mounts to the motor mount?

yveyant,
I may take you up on that phone call but it will be this weekend or later, when I'm looking at the car. Thanks.

6704gto,
Hope you come back.

[YVEYANT]

Originally Posted by Tempest

Check out my pics in this post http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=515695

The wires now all come from the front of the motor to the starter. You must have the wire holder that attaches to the motor mount. You can see in my 1st pic how the ear from the manifold got caught on the frame. after some grinding, it cleared, see pic 2. I jacked up on the oil pan with a 2x4 to distribute the weight, be careful to watch the clearance between the distributor and the firewall. (my distributor was removed). One tip, be sure to feed enough wire through the tube to allow you to secure these to the solonoid BEFORE the starter is put in place, as once the starter is lifted in place, you cannot reach the wires. The passenger side is relatively straight forward, but the engine still needs to be raised. It is a bit of a pain, but it all does fit. Also, the flange bolts are NOT evenly spaced, I had to drill a hole in each flange to accept a stud, there maybe flanges out there that fit from the box, but mine needed another hole to line up.

You must of bought the flanges from PY, I had two sets of them with the same problems and they are too big and weak. R.A.R.E makes a much better set, stronger, smaller (for better starter clearance) and has a better seal.
Most importanlty, they fit right out of the box.

[bobbyj1]

Yes they reporoduce the wire routing tube, I jacked up my engine to do the drivers side when I did this.

[az67goat]

Started this today.
On the passenger side I have a bolt head that is rounded off. It was aready rounded off when I started. I also have a stud that is rounded off at the end where there should be a little hex hd. I haven't gotten to the rear stud yet. The nuts came off the studs fairly easily. One bolt was difficult. I ended up going to get a longer wrench and soaked it with PB Blaster for a few hours. It finally gave.
On the driver side things are much more difficult to get to. All bolt are loose except the rear bolt. I'm not sure how to deal with getting these bolt in the center out. I guess that this is the side everyone jacks up.

Questions:
1. What is the best way to deal with the rounded bolt and stud?
2. Does everyone jack the driver side up?
3. Looks like removing the starter and the oil filter bracket is manditory, then they both go out the bottom, correct? It looks like I might not have to jack up ther passenger side.

[az67goat]

Oh... and also. What does everyone think about Engineers comment on jacking on the timing cover. Does this sound right?
Going to go see the Phoenix Suns first home preseason game now. Go Suns!
Thanks all and talk later.

[6704gto]

im here i un did the bolts from the bottom of the manifold where the exhaust pipes joins.then i undid the bolts that hold it to the head.once i got them off i then i pulled off the old exhaust and instaklled the new manifolds.i then took it to a exhaust shop and had them make me stock exhasut in bigger diam pipe