[Larry_Rarus]

Does anyone have any experience with replacing the old points type distributor in a 61-63 Tempest 4-cyl with a breakerless type?

[WDCreech]

Originally Posted by Larry_Rarus

Does anyone have any experience with replacing the old points type distributor in a 61-63 Tempest 4-cyl with a breakerless type?

No experience with your particular conversion, but you can use the points distributor to just trigger an MSD spark box. I use this combo in my drag car.

[Larry_Rarus]

Interesting. So, although the original distributor is used, are the original points set and condenser eliminated? I'll have to try and research this. Thanks for your input.

[SD421]

Larry,
Im running a Petronix ignition on my 4 cylinder and it works great! 75 degrees of dwell with no problems.
-Don

[Larry_Rarus]

Thanks for the advice Don. I did some research and it seems Pertronix does have a nice little set-up. I went ahead and purchased an Ignitor II unit.

[PontiacsForLife]

Originally Posted by Larry_Rarus

Thanks for the advice Don. I did some research and it seems Pertronix does have a nice little set-up. I went ahead and purchased an Ignitor II unit.

Hey Larry, I'd be very interested in hearing how it improves performance. I have my points set spot on per the manual. Assuming you do too, this would be an excellent experiment...

If you wouldn't mind checking one thing for me while you're under the hood; could you tell me what diameter the carburetor top is - I want to order an air cleaner assembly for my 1bbl Tempest, and my car isn't stored here in my garage.

Thanks in advance,
-Adam

[Larry_Rarus]

Hi Adam,

I'll post something to this thread after I install the Pertronix ignition. It'll be at least a month though. The car is somewhat disassembled at the moment. The gas tank is out to fix a leak, the driver's seat is out to be re-sprung, it's up on blocks as four new gas shocks are being installed, etc., etc. (off season maintenance).

By the way, the Pertronix kit is number 1144A for the Ignitor I and 91144A for the Ignitor II unit. I bought the Ignitor II unit. I compared prices from many different sources and the prices varied widely for the exact same unit. The best price I could find was from Eastwood. However, there was a catch. The price on eastwood.com was $129. Eastwood sells on E-Bay. The exact same kit from Eastwood on E-Bay was only $73. So, I was able to save more than fifty bucks from the same supplier by buying it through E-Bay.

I'll measure the diameter of the carburetor air inlet and let you know tomorrow.

[KJB]

With the Ignitor II (or any electronic ignition conversion for that matter) you will want to run a full time 12 volt supply to the coil. The standard set up has a resistor wire that takes over once the engine has started and reduces the voltage to the coil to 9.5 volts to keep the points from burning out.

[Larry_Rarus]

Originally Posted by KJB

With the Ignitor II (or any electronic ignition conversion for that matter) you will want to run a full time 12 volt supply to the coil. The standard set up has a resistor wire that takes over once the engine has started and reduces the voltage to the coil to 9.5 volts to keep the points from burning out.

Interesting catch. I never would've thought to look for that. How did you stumble upon that?

[PontiacsForLife]

I just happened to visit the car today! I wasn't expecting to go down there for a while. I got a measurement on the carb opening: The upstanding ledge measures 2-5/8" diameter. I'll be getting a chrome air cleaner assembly soon.

[Larry_Rarus]

Well the Pertronix Ignitor II electronic ignition is in my 1-bbl 195 3-speed Le Mans. I was simply astounded as to how easy it was to install. I kept thinking there must be more to it, but there wasn't. Pop, the cap, remove the rotor and old breaker plate with points/condenser still installed. Install the new plate with the ground wire. Slip the electronic module over the posts, ensure there is a slight gap between the module and the pickup, and run the two wires to the coil. There are only two things to watch out for. The first is that the plus side of the coil must have full voltage (not passed through an external resistance wire). The second is that the distributor cap itself must be filed ( 1/4" x 3/16" slot) to allow for the two leads to escape the cap. The little Trophy-4 fired right up and purred like a kitten. I got the kit from Eastwood for a little over seventy bucks. If it's time for you to tune-up your engine then you should certainly consider this option.

[SD421]

Hi Larry,
Im glad that you got it going. My question about it is, are you running the "pointer" rotor type or the "round" rotor? I found the pointer type to be giving me only 55 degrees of dwell. (Im back to the "round rotor". 75 degrees.

Also, you mentioned that you have a 1 barrel carb. Do you have the stock air cleaner assembly for it? If not, Ive got one. Ive got the 4 barrel flow-jet so I cant use it anymore.
-Don

[Larry_Rarus]

Hi Don,

I have the complete stock air cleaner assembly so I'm all set there. Thanks for considering that, however.

I'm running the pointer type rotor. As far as the dwell is concerned....here's where I'll start to sound like a dummy, but what the heck. I don't know what my dwell currently is and don't know how to set it. On some old GM points systems you had the little window in the cap to slide up and stick a wrench in there while a dwell meter was attached. That's not the case with this cap or the electronic system.

[george kujanski]

There are no dwell adjustments with the Ignitor II. It does all that stuff by itself. Set the timing and forget it.

George